Not that I was looking for it, but came across this today. 20-25k miles on it.Thanks, Gates. Replaced with OEM.It didn’t throw grease everywhere inside the cover like yours, but still not great.

Welcome!Feel free to share as many pictures as you want of your targa 1G! That is a rarity around here.

Yes.

I’ve always used the Fel-Pro kits for my unspectacularly normal power levels.The 7-bolt engine didn’t use a gasket for the rear main seal housing to engine block from the factory, only RTV sealant.

Post a WTB ad in the classifieds section or look at / contact vendors that offer used parts.

Ordered one off eBay earlier this week after I read about @Bigmike4g63t getting his here a week ago.Appreciate the heads-up, @curt-s !Edit: Speak of the devil, it arrived!! Obviously, had to go with the black.

Whoops. Yeah, I see I goofed there - the FSM diagram pictured does not specify which coil is which. I (mistakenly) looked at the pin numbers of the coil and decided those were coil designations.Thanks for posting the correct info, Steve!

OK. Now that wiring is per the FSM, have you verified, that you’re getting spark on all four cylinders?

I’d try to help but without seeing or better understanding what you have, there’s not much else I can offer. I’m fairly surprised they don’t provide any install information.Once you get it figured out, it would be great if you posted back up here letting everyone know what those 8 pins ended...

That’s what it looks like. Yes, MT = manual transmission.Verify that your car is setup for California emissions (either check your vacuum hoses and compare against the Federal and Cali diagrams or check for an EGR Temperature Sensor). If so, MD128622 is what it should be using.

The one on the right has the correct case / mounting brackets for a 1G.That said, we can tell absolutely nothing from this picture otherwise. Remove the covers and take pictures of the boards or try some self-identification using the printed number on the white connector (inside the case)...

Reviewing the wiring from the original post, those extensions look correct. And that’s how it’s wired now? Please confirm.

Definitely possible. And I agree with Hiroshi on all points other than the 1G intake manifold — it could be used on the 2G head, but it will not be a good combination of parts.It would allow the car to operate but it would not be near any sense of optimal. Any of those manifolds he mentioned...

Do you have pictures of what you’re dealing with?Did OHM provide any instructions along with the harness?

It looks like the Haltech diagram is labeled opposite of the factory service manual. Normally, I’d say that’s not an issue but the ignition inputs and coil outputs are swapped versus what the FSM shows.Basically, what Haltech shows is their pin 8 is the FSM’s pin 1; their pin 7 is the...

Yes.

Figured it was worth a shot. Are you describing inverted flare fittings?2G Turbo feed line fittingsI don’t find any matching that description, exactly. But eBay does have this DIY option where you drill the 0.075” hole through.

Maybe a combination of items from FP? The filters have the restrictors.

2G DSM Factory Service Manual for Chassis, Body, & Powertrain w/ Bookmarks

109 ft-lbs.

First thing is first - check the level of the brake fluid in the master cylinder. The light being on will not cause the vehicle to operate in limp mode.Good thread for reference: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/ebrake-light-stays-on.36497/

It appears another ‘90 non-turbo transmission should be a direct swap. I cross-referenced part numbers for clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, fork, slave cylinder, and both axles against a December 1989 non-turbo VIN. They all match. The transmission for the December VIN, however, is...

Agreed. For that VIN, the transmission model pops up in CAPS as KM206-0-DJNS, part number MD995455. Very early transmission - VIN specifies production period of the vehicle to be the first third of March, 1989.Why the KA instead of KM20, I haven’t a clue.

'What Size is That Bolt, Nut, Stud, Fastener? (1G version)'

1G Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and USDM GVR4 Spark plug cover. Again, not 100% correct. Use for reference only or assume any and all associated risks. /covermyasslegalese

I spent wayyyy too much time trying to replicate the complete geometry of the 1G Talon / Laser cover. I know it’s not perfect (nominal thickness in the center section is pretty thin) but it’s a decent overall representation.And, certainly, I’m overdoing it but it was an interesting challenge. 👍

It was a pull from a junkyard. You’ll catch me in a lie if I said I remembered for sure. I don’t think I used vice grips, but I might have. One way or the other, I got it out.Definitely had to use vice grips on the pump outlet fitting on the top of the housing - nothing unusual there (as...

This is what I observed on the last pump I pulled:fuel pump > grommet > O-ring > spacer > hangerAnd, on the bottom of the pump, looks like you’re missing the pump seat / grommet that snugs it up to the housing.

Search dust collection hose or flex drain hose.

And the AMG spark plug cover is part number MD146678. :thumb:

How are you running the wires for those gauges? Are they routed behind the A-pillar trim and, if so, did you not have to drill a hole through the trim to allow the wires to pass through?

South Bay Fuel Injectors CalculatorsDeatschwerks Fuel Injector CalculatorCalculators like these will help give you an idea.

I can say that the 1Ga wings are polyphenylene oxide.I’m petty certain the material was the same for the 1Gb.

So it’s not just Fluidampr that has some “compatibility issues”. Good to know.1G timing belt questions/fluidampr questions

I’m assuming that you’re still using your crank trigger plate and balance shaft sprocket (or balance shaft spacer)?I would imagine that this would simply butt up to those.

You’re talking about this washer?Looks like it is for the crank bolt itself, installed inside of the hub, after installing the hub on the crankshaft.How far off are the pulleys on your engine currently?

I’d actually vote bolt # 8, as shown on VFAQ, for that one. Looks too large relative to the others to be bolt # 6. But a quick measure to determine whether it is a M8 (coincidentally, # 8 bolt) or M6 (again, coincidentally, # 6 bolt) would sort that out.#6 is for the starter plate, but...

It depends on the yard. Our “original” local Pull-a-Part lists long blocks for $185 with a $20 core.LKQ seems to have increased prices on everything lately. That automatically tacked on additional cost for the warranty is ridiculous. For those that may not be aware - you do not have to...

I think Marty's @1990TSIAWDTALON got you covered.6-Bolt Aftermarket Oil Pan Modification for Main Studs

Gotta ask - you’re positive that they aren’t 3/8” - 16?16 TPI equates to 0.0625 inch pitch, just larger than a metric 1.5mm pitch (0.06 inches). The diameter is too large for a M9 and too small for a M10. I’d expect the diameter to be slightly under the nominal measure (.375), though .364...

It’s the same kit for all DSMs, per ASA.

261873968233706024Expires: April 26, 2024

A GST and a GST Spyder will use the same axles; they use the same transmission so there’s no reason they wouldn’t. These have 27 splines on the transmission side.A GS Spyder (non-turbo) will use different axles, with only 25 splines on the transmission side, making them non-interchangeable...

It’s the OEM MB631110 bumper with the “optional” MB631124 lip.It did look alright even though it had met too many parking blocks before getting to me. Shame on me, but I’m pretty certain I threw out the lip some time ago. Still have the bumper cover, just in case.