Since the cables are discontinued you may have to measure the thread and the length of the control end to find a suitable replacement. Metric female rod end heim fitting.Performance Partout has a used cable on eBay. Try contacting then or post in the classifieds here.

Sure, that's easy to remember. :)

You have to do some modifications to work around the park/neutral ignition disable, the reverse switch, and Clutch Safety Switch. I'll let you search here for the specifics.

Yes, there is a inspection cover/splash shield that bolts to the block.https://www.rtmracing.com/xcart/product.php?productid=19251 https://www.rtmracing.com/xcart/product.php?productid=18641

Since describing seems to be a problem, post a picture of what you're talking about, please.

I better check mine... I wonder if Sears will take that back under the Craftsman lifetime warranty LOL

It's getting late and I'm still groggy from a 14 hour banzai run from Boulder to Chicago yesterday but I can't figure out what you are describing? Without the ECU plugged in you shouldn't have anything on the the Sensor Power wires since the ECU sources that. Also with the ECU disconnected the...

Nor does it matter except to those of us with OCD. Since both channels of the PTU do the same thing all that matters is that the right ECU output gets to the right coil.I will point out that if you look at the full diagram you'll see that the coil for cylinders 1 & 4 is connected to the OC1...

That picture is upsidedown. And it sounds like you fried it.When you look at the Factory diagrams you need to note where the latch/index and remember that what it's showing you is as if you're looking at the connector with the wires coming out of it, not looking at the connector with the...

You should be looking for which one(s) is loose enough to vibrate and make that noise.

I'd check all the heat shields on the exhaust.

It's customary to provide additional information to an existing thread rather than repost the exact same in a new thread if you're not getting responses. There are two different types of "Limp Mode" with these cars. The first is an ECU/PCM fault mode when it detects an issue with one more more...

Yep, that's the critical area that far too often kills the TCU. The green transistor there is part of the voltage regulator and white hybrid IC on the other side of the cap has the logic to drive it.The yellow sleeved capacitors don't usually leak and the two bright orange caps are tantalum...

You'll be fine regardless. The most important change is the new ones don't leak like the originals. Sadly yours has and the solder around it has become porous. Hopefully the traces haven't failed and the voltage regulator with them. TCUs have this nasty habit of dumping 12v on the 5v rail when...

This is why I didn't mention it earlier. The LCA's are front end suspension parts. Have you checked/replaced them?

When I did the bushings on the front I found that the rear pin was rotted out like the ones in this thread. (Mine weren't quite this bad but they were loose and rusty) https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1g-lower-control-arm-rusted.410071/I actually changed the bushing first and had issues...

That's a good question for another Tech Article. I'm not sure if the comparison makes more sense between the USDM NA models or how they are different between the USDM Turbo models and the European NA cars?

I got that, but what wasn't clear is if the ECU turns on (CEL Light, Boost Gauge moves) when you first turn the key to the ON/RUN position or until you turn it to START (all the way).What happens if you get DSMLink to connect but don't actually start the car by stopping it from cranking...

I'm not sure what you're describing with the ignition switch? When does the ECU start up?

Doesn't look to me like either end is very clean and smooth. The pick up pipe looks corroded and the o-ring looks dry and dirty.

From here I couldn't guess. I suggest you continue with your multimeter since it looks like you have many splices in your wiring in that area.There are three things I was hoping to do with my post. One was to clarify which pin was pin 1 on the PTU connector since it's often confused. Second...

Factory 2G 4G63 and 4G64 ignition wiring1 1.25L/B (Coil 2-3) 2 BR/R (ECU 2-3) 3 1.25B Ground 4 W (Tach) 5 NC 6 2B/W (+12v) 7 B/L (ECU 1-4) 8 1.25B/W (Coil 1-4)Yours looks like it's done 1 B - L/B 2 W - BR 3 L - B/W (B?) 4 Y - W 5 NC 6 GR - B/W 7 BR - B/L 8 R - B/WPin 1 Would be the Black...

I guess you'll have to learn by dirty hands and busted knuckles.

Two different MAP sensors? Did it work this way before? I don't see KeyStart turned on why you're cranking and the battery voltage falls to 9.6V. Does it need a good charge? Not getting KeyStart usually implies a wiring issue. Is this a 2.1L engine? Why have you changed your Direct Access Load...

Rather than jump around with multiple threads it can be helpful to stick to one so everyone has history and can move forward instead of asking the same questions over and over.What vacuum lines you'll need will come into play as you get farther along. Typically, you need lines for your BOV...

That clip is a great idea but I always found those A pillar gauge pods blocked my view so I went the vent route. I had a carbon fiber test panel from the F-117 Nighthawk my brother-in-law had given me and I cut out a bezel from it. There is a possibility that is the most expensive part on the...

DSMLink gives you lots of tools but shitty injectors give shitty idles.

So tell us, what was the compression and post a DSMLink log of at least one attempt to start it.

I was trying to dig a bit since I can't see how the Noid Light is working but the injectors aren't.

When did it last start up on it's own?

Do you have a better picture of where you grafted the PTU to the car harness. I can't read all the wire colors and it looks like you have more Black/White wires than you should.

Sorry to hear that but it answers a few questions.

How long have you been running the PTU loose like that? They need a heatsink to survive.

Cool, that helps explain your post. Thanks

I'm not sure how much help I can provide but now that you have the matching fuse box for your harness do they connect? If they do what are your current issues?

What's the advantage of this versus the lower control arm or have you replaced those with tubular ones without mounting points?

There are many such lists online. I've provided one focused on USDM ECUs @ http://simon.chi.il.us/ECU/ECUID.html for at least 20 years.I'm more than happy to update it for other markets given qualified data.

I suspect that depends on exactly which version of the Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors you get. They make them for a variety of cars and one of the differences is the how the Bosch injector is mated to the head or intake.

Before you do all that just check for spark.

Please don't hijack Iluvboost189's thread. He's still trying to solve his issues. Your questions are best addressed in your own thread https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/99-spyder-gs-4g64-to-4g63t-swap.546316/

Here's the deal, you can run 37psi or 43psi if you want as long as you scale the injector global correctly. A 1G ECU expects 450cc (measured at 43.5psi) being run as ~37psi. That's an effective flow rate of about 411cc. If you change the size (both sets of injectors sized at 43.5psi/3bar) but...

Moved since this has little to do with swapping a Turbo engine into a 1G NA.Please don't hack up the 2G head to fit your 1G intake manifold. Use a small port IM to keep the correct airflow.

Nope, just tired of people wasting his time. I don't blame him one bit.

I didn't see any pictures in your profile with the intake on ...All I see in a quick look is that the fuel global is set of 1027cc injectors and you say they are 950cc. In the log, the airflow #s are hard to believe as are the injector pulse widths and low RPMs for cranking. I'm only running...

This one (see post #1) is and that's why he doesn't have a CLUTCH reservoir in it.

As if Facebook wasn't bad enough. If you feel you need a chat server just make a generic DSM one. :)

That looks like the Boost Control Solenoid (Waste Gate Control Solenoid) and are you sure you didn't disconnect the one line from the MAF tube when you removed it to dig around there? I believe that like attaches to a nipple on the MAF snorkel after the MAF so that the air released by the BCS is...

Many 2Gs for various reasons have the accessory belt squeal from it slipping on startup and sometimes when turning. Sometimes it's due to belt tightness, others the cleanliness of the pulleys and belt, yet others from misalignment of the pulleys. 1Gs don't seem to have this as much.Your idle...

Lovely 2G belt slipping. Doesn't sound very even at idle. Have you checked the compression? What did you gap the new plugs to when you changed them?

If you have a Multimeter (If not, now is a good time to buy one) you measure the resistance of each of the four coils inside.The connector has 6 pins arranged as 2 rows of 3. The center pin of each row is the common so you measure pin 1 to pin 2 and pin 2 to pin 3 then the same for the next...