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Tranny Stuck in 2nd

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XiKeiyaZI

15+ Year Contributor
6,967
55
Dec 28, 2008
Goldsboro, North_Carolina
So I got the Talon timed right and running gloriously. I took it out for a quick 'round the block' and found out that the trans will not shift from 2nd gear. Starts and continues in it. I have read that there are various causes ranging from bands to commonly a dirty valve body to a bad filter.

I have also read here and there about a transmission relay or fuse? I've never owned an Automatic DSM so this is a new concept for me. Can someone point me down the right road here? I'm looking to drop my pan and change fluid and filter. If that doesn't resolve it then it'll be a valve body overhaul. I'd like to keep it simple, however, as auto trans fluid can get expensive.

Thanks for any input.

Also just pulled the TCU (What a pain in the ass) and popped it open. Board looks perfect AND.. it's EEPROM. ;)
 
Have you checked for any codes? Are you sure it's in 2nd and not in 3rd? It sounds like limp mode to me, which is usually a 3rd gear default. Take a look here if you havn't already done so, as this might help get you pointed in the right direction. Good luck! :)

TCU Codes
 
The N/A Spyder I had last summer had this problem (1 gear). Found out the fuse to the TCU was pulled due to a power draw problem on the TCU's circuit. It would drain the battery in less than a day with the TCU working. Not saying this is your problem, but it could be as simple as a computer issue. The car defaults to one gear; aka "limp mode" when there's a problem.

I've read that it's pretty common for TCU's to have problems on these cars. I say see if you can pull some codes.
 
Well here's the thing - There are zero codes that I am aware of. Those would show under a default CEL, wouldn't they? I know it's not third because it has power from a stop, just not what it should have. By 35MPH I'm already creeping up the RPM range. Nonetheless I'll check for codes when I get home and see if it's producing anything that I'm not picking up otherwise, either by the CEL or by link.

As I said before, the board looks great. Looks better than any ECU (Sorry Brian :p ) I've ever pulled. Zero residue or any trace heat marks anywhere. Luckily it's EEPROM which got me pretty excited. Custom shift points for the win. Anyhow. I inspected the harness plugs to the TCU and they all check out. I haven't done any extensive testing, however. I would like to check for this "Fuse" yet I have no idea where to start checking for that. I did find a single broken relay under the MAF near the boost solenoid but I'm 99% sure that has nothing to do with the issue.
 
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The TCU stores codes separately from the ECU. The link above should tell you how to pull those. I know they will get get stored separately, as I had a 95 AWD that had all sorts of internal trans fault codes that did not set the main CEL.
 
The TCU stores codes separately from the ECU. The link above should tell you how to pull those. I know they will get get stored separately, as I had a 95 AWD that had all sorts of internal trans fault codes that did not set the main CEL.

Awesome. So I assume Link will not pick these up either? Roger that. Just what I needed. Looking over these codes, they seem very specific. I'll pull them over lunch and see what I can produce. Hopefully it's something ridiculously simple.

Thanks for the input guys.
 
Have you checked the fusebox's for tcu fuse? Are all the connections plugged in on the trans?

Is this for the 96? or a 1g?
 
I heard about the Trans fuse and started looking. I can't find anything labeled even remotely related to the Trans. All connections to the trans are fine, right down to the speedo sensor which looks brand new. the trans itself doesn't make any noise or anything that sounds bad, it just doesn't shift. It acts like it just isn't getting the signal or go ahead to shift to the next gear. I'm somewhat aware that it normally sits in 2nd and 'kicks down' to 1st at throttle, but it's like.. it just sit's in 2nd and never changes. reverse works perfect.

=/
 
Now quick question - I pulled the TCU to check it for any inconsistencies or damage. I take it that disconnecting it from the harness will erase those codes if there are any? So, hooking it back up, am I required to drive it before the codes are re-generated or...?
 
I'd still say its your TCU. My 91 gsx did the same thing. My TCU didn't look bad either but is was. Like gravedigger said, it goes into limp mode, which is 3rd gear. And yes, mine had power too, even in 3rd. See if you can borrow one from a friend or replace it with a known working TCU. I'm thinkin that'd solve your problem. Good luck though!!
 
I'm getting no codes. Not even a single sweep from the pin on the obd2 port. This would mean...?
 
Well if you search you'll find out where the TCU fuse is...this happened to me on my 95 and I thought that the trans was bad! Changed the Fuse (It's under the dash somewhere) and voila she was running!!!
 
..........Wow. All the time you spend helping people and you get the 'If you'd search' statement. Fortunantly I have searched come up empty handed. The location of the said fuse for the tcu would be nice so I can move onto other issues. Due to work I have a total of 2 hours per day to deal with said vehicle. Had the location just been shared I may already have had it fixed and the information added to a write up. -.-

Note : Found the answer on talk.

Now I have 1st and second, shifts great to those. No 3rd or 4th. Also still can't pull codes for the TCU. It's amazing that link won't pull them either.
 
I'm unable to pull any codes via a Multimeter to check and see exactly what the holdup is with the trans only shifting (perfectly mind you) from 1st to second and back down to first. Even reverse engages smoothly. I know my OBDII Port is fine as Link connects without a hitch. Any insight?
 
Got it! The pins that were there for the codes were slightly misaligned so I had to use a body ground.

So far, with my multi-meter, I'm able to decipher Code #61.

"61 Short or Open-Circuited torque reduction request or execution signal line"

Code (61)

Check Torque Reduction Request Signal Line
Check Torque Reduction Execution Signal Line

Now I found an ECU Pinout and discovered that these lines are found on the ECU itself, not the TCU. My question is....what should I now check? Where do I go? If the ECU was, by chance, out of a 5Spd, would that make a difference? It's already socketed and Link'd out, I don't feel the ECU would have any bearing - That's what a TCU is for. However, what do I check now? I've found at least 1 of the codes and I'm even more lost than before. Googling has done nothing more than bring me back to unanswered posts here about the same problem.
 
Yeah, I have one laying around but was too anxious to find it, so I just grabbed the meter. I've been disgusted with the car for a few days so it hasn't been touched until 11:30 last night to pull that code. I just have no idea what my next move should be...those pins are all ECU related. Bad ECU, wrong ecu, or bad wiring?
 
Just went through, checked my connections, cleaned a few and viola no codes... Not really any different. I drove it home, pulled the codes, got new ones.


Code 41 : Open-Circuited shift control solenoid valve A

Code 83 : Open or Short-circuited Shift Control Solenoid valve A

So...It's obviously something with my connection to Shift Control Solenoid Valve A. Input?

I can feel it shift at 1000 (1st to 2nd), 2500 (2nd to 3rd), but once I hit 2500rpm again, it just keeps climbing. it's almost like the switch for OD is missing. Thing is - My switch for overdrive IS missing. The person who installed this has a manual shift knob on it and fixed to the rod that goes down into the control shifter. Now, the button, stock, is hooked into the stock shift lev- ... THAT'S IT. I'm getting codes because that switch is missing, correct?! And without that switch I can't shift to 4th gear!

UGH.

I'm terrible with wiring - To be honest. Looking at this diagram

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I can see the OD wire and figure out where it's going, but it has like 13 paths. How SHOULD I wire this up to work correctly?
 
No button will do that. I had a broken button and only had 1-2-3.
Unplug the big connector for the transmission solenoids and check continuity to the solenoid. I don't remember the colors but you should easily find them. Just look for the diy shift kit thread. Its have all the wire colors explained. Or vfaq. Just be careful putting it back together. The o2 and trans have the same plug :thumb:


You'll need to take the console off to get to the plug for OD. I got my switch from a galant. You can just get the whole shifter
 
Not sure I completely understand your post. I'm pushed to believe this is my issue as the trans is shifting great and if a Solenoid was bad I'd either be in 1-2 gear set or 3-4. Everything acts PERFECT until it's time to shift to 4th and it just never gets the signal. All connections have checked out. Are you saying that the OD button being missing completely would NOT cause my issue with not being to shift into 4th gear? It doesn't slip or anything like that, it just doesn't shift.

I have the console out and have looked around to no avail. There is no wire. Period.
 
You can also take the shift button and wire from an avenger, and possibly sebring for a 2g..

My girls avenger has the same od button as my 1g..
 
Awesome. Now that it's confirmed - How do I wire one up?
 
Lmao. I suppose the previous owner STARTED to wire an OD switch, however couldn't figure out the wiring. The switch is mounted on the kick panel. I just don't know HOW to wire it. Where to get the connection from, if I need to run it to anything else...nothing. That's where I need direction.
 
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