p1105 code problem

[gruberhome]

I recently rebuilt the engine in a 1998 Eclipse. The engine is a 2.0 turbo. When I got this car in it had an after market turbo larger than stock with a huge intercooler and a turbox bov. I replaced the turbo with a stock unit but retained the intercooler and bov. The problem is the fuel pressure soleniod code 1105 keeps showing up. I replace the soleniod and checked for vacuum leaks did a boost leak test, send the ecu out for testing came back ok. This seem like it may be related to something other than fuel pressure soleniod. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what the issue is here?

 

[pitt97gsx]

even though I ain't suppose to be here but I'm gonna say I have the same problem because I have a small leak in my fuel filler neck.

 

[LTUDSM]

I recently rebuilt the engine in a 1998 Eclipse. The engine is a 2.0 turbo. When I got this car in it had an after market turbo larger than stock with a huge intercooler and a turbox bov. I replaced the turbo with a stock unit but retained the intercooler and bov. The problem is the fuel pressure soleniod code 1105 keeps showing up. I replace the soleniod and checked for vacuum leaks did a boost leak test, send the ecu out for testing came back ok. This seem like it may be related to something other than fuel pressure soleniod. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what the issue is here?

did you clear the code after you installed a new fps? try bypassing it and see whats gonna happen...

 

[gruberhome]

pitt97gsx, how do you know that your filler neck is causing the code? I cleared the code with my scan tool. I will try to bypass the soleniod and get back.

 

[pitt97gsx]

because a hole in the fuel system will cause a pressure difference

 

[gruberhome]

I bypassed the soleniod but the code came back as before, after about 20 minute of driving I get a pending code p1105 and after the third or fourth state the check engine light will come on.

I now have a new problem, when I engage the clutch I hear a ticking sound in the front of the engine. It goes away when I leave the clutch out. It is definitely loudest in the front.

 

[LTUDSM]

I bypassed the soleniod but the code came back as before, after about 20 minute of driving I get a pending code p1105 and after the third or fourth state the check engine light will come on.

I now have a new problem, when I engage the clutch I hear a ticking sound in the front of the engine. It goes away when I leave the clutch out. It is definitely loudest in the front.

when you engage the clutch does the rpms drops???

 

[gruberhome]

Yes the rpms drop when I engage the clutch. I have been reading about crank walk could this be the problem, remember this has new bearings just installed.

I just checked the crank endplay, its .039 ", way to much what gives?

 

[LTUDSM]

Yes the rpms drop when I engage the clutch. I have been reading about crank walk could this be the problem, remember this has new bearings just installed.

I just checked the crank endplay, its .039 ", way to much what gives?

well new bearings desn have anything to do with a c-walk.I remember when i rebuilt my bottom end (forged internals, new bearings) and i didn't checked the crank play,so i made like 70 miles on a new bottom end and then motor just walked away .

 

[gruberhome]

So are saying that there is nothing that can be done to save this engine? From what I been reading the block is junk. Mitsubishi dealers service bulletin said replace engine. Has anyone successfully repaired a block with this problem?

 

[LTUDSM]

So are saying that there is nothing that can be done to save this engine? From what I been reading the block is junk. Mitsubishi dealers service bulletin said replace engine. Has anyone successfully repaired a block with this problem?

i dunno about that,but yo better to find a are 6bolt block,and do a swap..... yo can find one for really cheap for not even 200 bux.... to fix the block its not worthed

 

[Limegrntaln]

If you rebuild the 7bolt. Have the crank cap dowels machined in and installed. Align hone with a torque plate is also a must. Don't leave the block to a random V8 shop to do.

I downloaded my code today. I also have this P1105 and a stupid 0300 random misfire that I have to chase. I noticed that the number 3 plug was arcing under the boot. And I didnt have a CEL until I changed the plug wires. I noticed there was some clear grease going from the metal to the wall of the rubber plug inside and that the plug looked burned on the outside where it had definitely been arcing, it was all burnt. I cleaned out that plug socket and put some BPR6ES plugs in. There was some dual electrode NGKs in there. Which werent old at all. I didnt put them in, the previous owner installed them. I only have 150 miles on the car since I replaced the clutch. This is the first I have driven it.