Need help fast, cut brake lines!!!!!

[95DsManiac]

Hey all,

I searched but not for long, I need a answer or advice fast!!

Yesterday when working on my 95 fwd drag gsT I was finishing up on my fuel cell and related items install. I was cutting out my old hard lines and my dumb axx accidentally cut one of the brake lines in half and the other one I cut only a little bit. They are both un repairable and I need to know if I can run all 4an lines??

Can I run 4 an lines from the front connector thing all the way back to the rear brakes? Or do I have to get new hard lines?

Can I run 4an or is it too big?

What adapter connectors size/thread would I need for the front connector (can't think of the name right now sorry).

Would the regular ss line work that we usually use for fuel or would it not hold the pressure?

Please anyone let me know that has done this before. I don't want to be a guinea pig unless I absolutely have to. This is the only thing holding me back from finally finishing the car after long 8 months of work.

Thanks in advance and god bless you all.

Anthony B.

 

[Dsmkauai]

Dang bro that sux. I wouldn't use a line unless it says its ok for brake fluid. The pressure is only high when your braking. If your max effort you could see up to 2000psi, most will never see that high of pressure. But under normal conditions and in most cases it won't even be over 800psi. You can always make new lines it's not hard to do especially if you have the old line to use as a templet. You could always fix the lines in your car and just do a slice in style repair. See what size lines they use for the upgrade brake kits for our cars and use that size and type of line if you can find it long enough.

 

[pacn91]

Can you use a flare tool, cut tool and just add in a hard splice at the area that has been cut?

 

[pauleyman]

The pressure isnt high? The hell it isnt!!!!
Standard an line is not suitable for brakes. There is specific line for this. You can get new fittings, reflare and repair. Do not half ass this repair. A brake pressure gauge range is 2000psi.

 

[eclipserst96]

If you run -4an lines the brakes will seem spongy. You can get stainless steel 3/16" lines at most auto parts stores.

 

[4g63t]

I take it you messed them up to bad for one of thease? They have them at any auto parts store. They sell the SS ones that are made for break lines. (not brass even though they work)

 

[95DsManiac]

Yea I messed up big time.

Thanks for all the replys. I was hoping to hear something.

As for what happen, the picture above me is the exact same thing that happened just imagine it with no fittings, it's just cut. Both of them are.

So I like the idea of a patch fix more than replacing it all. How do I do that, I just go to the auto parts store and get a couple fittings, connectors and a flare tool??

Thanks again everyone.

Anthony B.

 

[DJ Raydiate]

You might want to get a tubing cutter as well. The cutter will give it a clean , unpinched cut that you can work with. I would take a piece of the line into the parts store with you unless you know the size of the line.

 

[ervin00]

The pressure is HIGH so if you use anything else then hard lines you will have spongy brakes as stated above.
Just take them off and take them to a auto parts store, most of them have them pre-made lengths that are already flared and have fitting on them in stock and all you have to do is match it to what they have. Length and thread size, after that you go home and bend them so they fit you car (you could by a bender for like $15 if you want). Do not use any other lines

 

[4g63t]

Yea I messed up big time.

Thanks for all the replys. I was hoping to hear something.

As for what happen, the picture above me is the exact same thing that happened just imagine it with no fittings, it's just cut. Both of them are.

So I like the idea of a patch fix more than replacing it all. How do I do that, I just go to the auto parts store and get a couple fittings, connectors and a flare tool??

Thanks again everyone.

Anthony B.

You will need a cutting tool to cut them nice then thats all you need.
Looks like this one 1936 91 Metal Tube Brake Line Cutting Tool Chevy GMC Trucks Cars | eBay
You do not need a flare tool for the above compression fittings. It is super simple to do.
If you are still confused watch.
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NRHCQgIU_r4[/ame]

 

[DJ Raydiate]

^ Yep. That was the cutter I was talking about. As stated and in the video, It is pretty straight forward. It shouldn't take no time at all.

 

[Dsmkauai]

All I meant is it isn't as high as say the power steering system. Typical brake line pressures can range from less than 800psi under normal braking and up to 2000 psi under extreme or maximum effort conditions. Anyway I would replace the line just like I meantioned in the first place and be done with it.

 

[95DsManiac]

I tried the dang fittings above and I put fluid in, press the peal, and it squirted strait through. I'll have to try it again to see if I can get it to seal better. But man these little fittings add up fast. So far 55 in fittings. This is why I asked about 4 an lines because I would rather do full ss braided lines.

Anthony. B

 

[SlickGSX]

You can run -3AN TFE hose from the porportioning valve on the firewall back to the calipers, they require TFE fittings though. The rear lines on my 1g rusted out and this was way easier then trying to duplicate the oem line with a pipe bender, the brake fitting threads are 10mm x 1.0

I'ts not going to be cheaper than repairing the steel line but it will be much easier.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fcc0420/overview/

 

[Jermoturbo]

You're gonna have problems trying to make your own line (with a tubing double flare kit) or splicing anything in. Ask me how i know. I suggest going to the local parts store and finding a straight piece of steel brake line thats the same length ( or relatively close) as the one you're trying to replace. If its a rear hard line(which are too long to find at an auto store), they can be ordered already bent to shape. Make sure you get the lines that are metric.
Please, whatever you do, do not attempt to make lines from AN line or anything other than steel. The last thing you want at highway speed, is your brakes failing.

 

[Insane20]

Dude, don't use those junk compression fittings. Go to the auto parts store, get a 3/16 union for an inverted flare with tube nuts. Buy a cheap flaring tool, watch a you tube video on how to make an inverted flare. Then fix your line the correct way, solved!

 

[Soccerguy136]

All I meant is it isn't as high as say the power steering system. Typical brake line pressures can range from less than 800psi under normal braking and up to 2000 psi under extreme or maximum effort conditions. Anyway I would replace the line just like I meantioned in the first place and be done with it.

2000psi max for brake lines is low compared to the 1500psi max for power steering huh? While those are both extremely high, brake lines almost always have the highest pressure rating in a vehicle.

I just saw a post from you earlier about how easy it is to run 10's in a fwd too. You need to dial it back. It's okay if you don't know the answer to something, but spreading information like "how easy it is to run 10's in a fwd" (the understatement of the year btw) when you haven't even come close to doing it yourself; and how "brake line pressure isn't very high"; are just plain ignorant and wrong.

To the OP, compression fittings are illegal to use and won't seal on an abs vehicle. Although it sucks, you are going to have to re-flare the old line or buy new or used. Maybe you can ask on the classifieds to help you out or go to a junkyard.

Anyway, flaring old line is not going to be easy. It took me about 2 hours to get a decent flare on some old lines when I was doing it, and I have replaced entire vehicle brake lines before.

Listen to the guy above. 3/16" line with male and female fittings M10x1.0. You can rent the tubing cutter and double flare tool at almost any auto parts store. I suggest buying a pre-bent and pre-flared piece of line so you only have to flare one side of your existing lines. That will be bad enough. You can google how to do a double flare. I suggest practicing on some different line first before you try to do it on your car. It is not that hard, but it's harder than it looks to get it right. Once you get it though, you get it. Also, just a tip, when you are ready to flare the line for real on your car, don't forget to put the fittings on. Nothing sucks worse than having to cut and re-flare some line because you forgot that.

It may be time for you to just buy this if you can't figure it out:

https://www.rtmracing.com/xcart/product.php?productid=18198

STM ABS DELETE KIT | 95-99 DSM

 

[arrowhead]

It is very easy to try to find the easy way out with compression fittings, not only are they illegal in a brake system, it is prohibited by DOT, and if something were to happen to you or someone else you would be in a lot of trouble for using them.

Either double flare and a union, NAPA usually have a good assortment or get a new line.
Brake fittings are specific.

 

[95DsManiac]

I have tried what all of you are suggesting, but like you said I might have not gotten a good flare. I purchased, not rented, all the tools needed to do this. This is going on my 850+Fwhp fwd Drag only car. I need to make it right and I will not half axx do it. I am going to do more and more research about what fittings will hold he best, because the one I got at the local hardware store didn't work. So far I have a tube cutter, 4 3/16 flare tube fittings, 2 m10 1.0 flared unions and a tube flaring tool kit (single). I will update with pictures tomorrow after I re try. This time I'm going to have to run line and bend it because I'm going to have to cut the fittings off and the line will be to short to re connect. If someone knows the site I can order the two lines to the rear please post it.

Thanks, god bless

Anthony B.

 

[95DsManiac]

Ok, so how do you all feel about this?? It all is made for brake systems and says it will hold the pressure??

Also did I get the right adapters 3an to m10x1.0? Will these work for the proportion ing valve and the caliper?

I'm trying to do this:

Valve with m10x1.0 to 3an fitting -- to -- 3an hose end -- to -- 3an line -- to -- 3an hose end -- to -- 3an to m10x1.0 adapter on caliper?? For both rear lines or lines that go to the back should I say.

It comes to a little over a $100 and I'm completely fine with doing this to every line on the car if you all think its fine to replace all hard lines??

Anthony. B

 

[Soccerguy136]

I have tried what all of you are suggesting, but like you said I might have not gotten a good flare. I purchased, not rented, all the tools needed to do this. This is going on my 850+Fwhp fwd Drag only car. I need to make it right and I will not half axx do it. I am going to do more and more research about what fittings will hold he best, because the one I got at the local hardware store didn't work. So far I have a tube cutter, 4 3/16 flare tube fittings, 2 m10 1.0 flared unions and a tube flaring tool kit (single). I will update with pictures tomorrow after I re try. This time I'm going to have to run line and bend it because I'm going to have to cut the fittings off and the line will be to short to re connect. If someone knows the site I can order the two lines to the rear please post it.

Thanks, god bless

Anthony B.

What do you mean single flare tool kit?! Did you miss all the posts where everyone told you to get a double flare tool kit and use a double flare?!

Well, in case you felt like it didn't matter, it does. While a single flare may be okay for fuel lines, there is no way that is going to hold the pressure of the brake lines. That's why modern cars use double flares there. Or some European cars use bubble flares but don't worry about that. You have to use a double flare for any and all brake lines on a DSM. Also, if you did like I said above and bought a pre-flared piece, you are trying to mate a pre-flared double flare to the single that you made. Yeah...that's not going to work either.

I posted two sites above where you can order the front two lines. Or you can fab up your own using the stuff you posted. Honestly though, since you are having such a tough time with this, I strongly recommend going with the STM kit. It will save all of these headaches and will not be "half axxing it" as you put. It is your best option right now outside of finding some used ones at a junkyard or from a local member.

As for the rear two lines, leave them alone. As far as braking performance is concerned, there is 0 benefit to installing -3 an, or any teflon hose, in place of factory hard lines. Hard lines are the best braking components available. The only reason to install the the an lines/kit is for an abs delete or the situation you are in where you need front brake line and can't find them used. While the front 2 lines are relatively short, the rears are much longer. The pressure drop for -3 an line, or any hose, teflon coated or not, to the back brakes would be much more noticeable than on the front because of their length. That's why no one offers a rear line kit and that's why you should leave them alone.

 

[ncdsmer]

I would personally find out the size of the tube used for the brake line and get a swage and a swage kit and just do the repair right there with that. We use that on helicopters that operate at 3000+ psi and have no problems. Shi**y thing is your local parts store may not have the kit (nor loan tools) in that case I would just remove the lies at the closes possible spot and take them to some kind of store that deals with hydraulic lines and have them manufacture one. It could take a couple days but that's much safer than putting a temp fix in that could possibly fail while you're driving. Don't forget to bleed the hell out of your brakes before you drive it after whatever repair you decide to make.

 

[95DsManiac]

Ok I'll go get the double flare tool. I got the single because if you go back and read the thread, no one said to get a double flare tool kit before I posted back and had already gotten the single. Anyhow, I'll post back with results so we can get this thread resolved.

Anthony B.

 

[Dsmkauai]

To bad your not out here bro or I could let you use my flare kits! just take your time and get the proper material to make the new lines and you'll be all G bro!

 

[GPLaserRS]

Hey bud, this is what I picked up to make my lines with - www.harborfreight.com/double-tube-flaring-tool-kit-66534.html#.Uy3ofCe9KK1 $24.99. I was in the same situation as you, my lines failed because the Midwest is a hotbed for rust if you can't garage your car.