NB4G63T
15+ Year Contributor
- 348
- 181
- May 22, 2006
-
saint john,
NB_Canada
Well thought I'd share my install with you fellas\gals as i don't post enough here and really should. I'm very impressed with the fit and finish the kit from Ken's Kustom Chassis has. It is by far one of the best prebent cages I've seen for a 2g. It fits so tight and gives you great head room as this was a big concern to me as this is still a summer DD(kinda,till I break it) and I didn't want to be whacking my head off the halo bar everytime I looked around. Just a relly nice design IMO. This is the first cage I've ever put in but not the first time I've done any fabricating, I'm a millwright\welder by trade so thats helped.
I've got the cage fully fit and tacked, well the ones that need to be, basically the 2 windshield\roof bars that connect to the main hoop above your head. All the pipes main hoop are plum and spaced to were they need to be to get the most visibility while driving. The upper windshield bar that completes the main halo was the hardest to fit IMO, keeping it centered and coping both ends of the pipe on a angle was very difficult, but I work slow, bit by bit and eventually just fell into place with some luck. I've got a 2011 NHRA rule book and have followed and rules thus far.
I asked Ken if he could change the kit so the rear strut towers had a bar connecting them and the rear down bars connect to that. The rear bar will be welded to 6x6 plates which are welded to the strut tower. I have the rear bar at this height as it gives me a mounting point for a chute later down the road. My plan is to keep the chute above the license plate so it's still street-able with the chute hanging off the back.
My plan now is to disassemble the cage and drill 4, 1 3\4" holes to drop the cage so you can weld the top joints. This really is the easiest rather then taking out the windshield. With all the top welding done lift the cage back up and slide the preboxed 6x6 plates under the points and weld them to the floor. Then I'm going from the underside and sealing the hole against the 6x6 plate with automotive seam sealer, this will keep out the elements.
I plan on having the rear down bars welded when the cage is dropped and when we lift the cage I'll just have to slide the rear strut tower bar into place and I should be golden.
I've taken some pics so here they are, let me know what you guys think so far.
~Shane
This is my boxed 6x6 plates I fabbed up at work, there just sitting there and still need to be fit into place, there going to fit in tighter.
Made card board temp plates of pipe copes that ken already done on some of the pipe ends. This help tremendously with transferring from one pipe to another.
Couple more
I'll be updating the thread with my progress and the finished product with my new ALL BLACK interior install, it was some hard to find all black dash, door parels, sills, ect.
Thanks
Shane
I've got the cage fully fit and tacked, well the ones that need to be, basically the 2 windshield\roof bars that connect to the main hoop above your head. All the pipes main hoop are plum and spaced to were they need to be to get the most visibility while driving. The upper windshield bar that completes the main halo was the hardest to fit IMO, keeping it centered and coping both ends of the pipe on a angle was very difficult, but I work slow, bit by bit and eventually just fell into place with some luck. I've got a 2011 NHRA rule book and have followed and rules thus far.
I asked Ken if he could change the kit so the rear strut towers had a bar connecting them and the rear down bars connect to that. The rear bar will be welded to 6x6 plates which are welded to the strut tower. I have the rear bar at this height as it gives me a mounting point for a chute later down the road. My plan is to keep the chute above the license plate so it's still street-able with the chute hanging off the back.
My plan now is to disassemble the cage and drill 4, 1 3\4" holes to drop the cage so you can weld the top joints. This really is the easiest rather then taking out the windshield. With all the top welding done lift the cage back up and slide the preboxed 6x6 plates under the points and weld them to the floor. Then I'm going from the underside and sealing the hole against the 6x6 plate with automotive seam sealer, this will keep out the elements.
I plan on having the rear down bars welded when the cage is dropped and when we lift the cage I'll just have to slide the rear strut tower bar into place and I should be golden.
I've taken some pics so here they are, let me know what you guys think so far.
~Shane
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This is my boxed 6x6 plates I fabbed up at work, there just sitting there and still need to be fit into place, there going to fit in tighter.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Made card board temp plates of pipe copes that ken already done on some of the pipe ends. This help tremendously with transferring from one pipe to another.
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Couple more
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I'll be updating the thread with my progress and the finished product with my new ALL BLACK interior install, it was some hard to find all black dash, door parels, sills, ect.
Thanks
Shane