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Going from a 14b to a evo III 16g, will my o2 housing and gasket work?

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Will my o2 housing with o2 dump and my gasket from my 14b fit the evo III 16g? I need to know soon because im about to order the turbo. thanks

yes it will work, i have one for sale. i paid $790 fp, with all the porting available and 34mm flapper everything. pm me for low price if your interested. the turbo have only 150miles.
 
what was your boost set at when it creeped to 18? I ordered the evo III 16g but i hope its worth it. Right now im on stock internals, 14b, 255 fuel pump, 1050 FIC's, AFPR and dsmlink and at 13 psi (with no boost creep) my car's a beast. I mean it feels really strong alot faster than i imagined for a 14b. Ive only had the car running for 2 days and my 14's turbine housing is cracked and leaking gas fumes constantly out of the dumptube, so i figured i'd give the 16g a shot.
 
what was your boost set at when it creeped to 18? I ordered the evo III 16g but i hope its worth it. Right now im on stock internals, 14b, 255 fuel pump, 1050 FIC's, AFPR and dsmlink and at 13 psi (with no boost creep) my car's a beast. I mean it feels really strong alot faster than i imagined for a 14b. Ive only had the car running for 2 days and my 14's turbine housing is cracked and leaking gas fumes constantly out of the dumptube, so i figured i'd give the 16g a shot.

u have the stock downpipe?

it was set at 15psi
 
nah ive gotta meagn racing 3inch downpipe with cat delete and 3inch megan racing all the way back

its gonna creep my friend, believe me.

alot of people don't realize that a stock downpipe and cat would help with boost creep.

another thing u can do is modified an t25 actuator to work on the 16g, or another garret actuator.

the better and coolest way of get rid of boost creep is TURN THE BOOST UP! LOL
 
i guess i prob could but really with it creeping that high 20 psi everyday will prob hurt my motor on stock internals right? maybe i should set my boost controller to 10 and let it creep to 15
 
Stop asking questions that totally depend on tons of factors and buy the turbo and proper fuel, then you can get a chip or SAFC and happily run 20+psi of boost every day. ;)
 
It's not the wastegate flapper that is the issue, it's due to the direction of exhaust flow take an extreme angle to exit the o2 housing via the wastegate port. That exit becomes a path of higher resistance than the tubine wheel whih is how you start to creep.

It is more common to creep when you have an upgraded exhaust that is very free flowing compared to stock.

Creepng numbers are different. You may only creep 10 psi, iv creeped to 30psi before (guess, it pegged my gauge)

So if you don't want to creep then you need to port the entry way to allow the exhaust to leave easier. It also helps to port the passage behind the flapper and remove all ridges from back there as well. You'll see a gray/white line where the exhaust is bouncing off the housing to exit. You want to make it so the exhaust doesn't bounce around and cause turbulence.

Porting behind he flapper makes no difference at all as the actuator only opens the gate at a 60* angle at most.

If you search waste gate porting you'll get he info on where and how to get it ported.

it will creep to 20 no matter if u set it at 5psi. ## not gonna hurt your motor with 20 pounds on a 16g.

If you don't have the fuel to match the 20psi from that turbo hen you will hurt you motor.

i didnt know it was gonna creep like that but i guess ill have to tune it for 20. So why exactly does it creep? Do they pull pretty hard at 20 psi?

The 16g doesn't wake up in it's efficiency range until around 20psi. I'm personally running 25psi and it's much harder than 20. I wouldn't go more than 25 however on the e316g.
 
It's not the wastegate flapper that is the issue, it's due to the direction of exhaust flow take an extreme angle to exit the o2 housing via the wastegate port. That exit becomes a path of higher resistance than the tubine wheel whih is how you start to creep.

It is more common to creep when you have an upgraded exhaust that is very free flowing compared to stock.

Creepng numbers are different. You may only creep 10 psi, iv creeped to 30psi before (guess, it pegged my gauge)

So if you don't want to creep then you need to port the entry way to allow the exhaust to leave easier. It also helps to port the passage behind the flapper and remove all ridges from back there as well. You'll see a gray/white line where the exhaust is bouncing off the housing to exit. You want to make it so the exhaust doesn't bounce around and cause turbulence.

Porting behind he flapper makes no difference at all as the actuator only opens the gate at a 60* angle at most.

If you search waste gate porting you'll get he info on where and how to get it ported.



If you don't have the fuel to match the 20psi from that turbo hen you will hurt you motor.



The 16g doesn't wake up in it's efficiency range until around 20psi. I'm personally running 25psi and it's much harder than 20. I wouldn't go more than 25 however on the e316g.

Excellent post ^ :thumb:
 
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