Error code P1105 MAP or Fuel Pressure Solenoid

[wises4057]

alright guys, I've got a 1997 eclipse spyder GST that is completely stock. I just rolled it over 64k miles, and the check engine light just came on. car still seems to drive fine, for the most part. once and a while when I start it(after sitting over night), it starts, stutters for a split second, then seems to run fine. I did a boost leak test, and no leaks that I can find anywhere(even went beyond factory boost pressure ratings). but when I'm driving down the road, it feels like I have a boost leak...stutters a little under WOT, until the boost is built up. and when I'm cruising down the road at a steady speed, it almost sounds like a hissing sound is coming from the passenger side, by the firewall.

Now for the part on the Check engine light. I ran it with an OBD-II sensor at advance auto parts, and comes back as code P1105. According to the OBD-II code book, P1105 is the MAP sensor on the intake manifold, but that seems to be fine. Now when I'm looking online tonight, it seems that the P1105 code is for the Fuel Pressure Solenoid. I haven't tested the solenoid tonight, but is it likely that it went out at only 64k miles?? or is it more likely that the fuel filter is getting clogged, throwing CE light on Fuel Pressure Solenoid?? Or is it possibly an issue with the Fuel Pressure Regulator?? Or does anyone have a different idea??

 

[rush2252]

Change the filter first. The Fuel Pressure Solenoid doesnt even affect the way the car runs. I have mine unplugged and tucked out of the way. I just routed a vacuum line around and looped it the car has no CEL. Its possible that the FPR is bad but I would start with a new filter cheapest quickest fix IF thats the only problem.


By the description it sounds like its running out of gasi.e clogged filter

Good Luck
Kolby

 

[wises4057]

ya, thanks. that's what I was thinking. I purchased a filter already, I just have to find some time for when I wanna feed my cars thirst for blood. any good ideas on an easy way of getting the filter off, other then a saws all!! haha

 

[rush2252]

Ive not had a whole lot of issues. I remove my battery and battery tray and use slip joint channel loks to hold the filter and a wrench on the banjo bolt. Ive read some horror stories on here about removal but Ive changed mine 3 times in the year Ive owned it and knock on wood havent had any issues to speak of YET!



Good Luck
Kolby

 

[wises4057]

alright, ya I tried removing the battery tray before to do this(during the winter time...here in wisconsin...not a recomended idea! haha gets cold)...I couldn't get one of the bolts free, because the charcoal canister was in the way of pulling the bolt out, but the bracket is in the way of getting the charcoal canister off...got confused and frustrated, and of course cold, so I called it quits then. Now that its warmer I'll try again. did you have a problem getting bracket off, with charcoal canister under it??

 

[rush2252]

well thats why they make crazy universal joints wobbles and pivoting ratchet wrenches. I think I know the bolt I used a long extension or a ratchet wrench cant remember. None the less I dont think I put that one back in




GOod Luck
Kolby

 

[wises4057]

haha ya, it's the one closest to the firewall. I've tried an extension, but I don't know if I tried a swivel or not...and theres not enough room around the head for a ratcheting wrench. The bolt I'm thinking of is one of the two that holds the bracket to the side...is it really a good idea to leave that one out?? I mean ya, there are the 4 bolts on the tray that holds the battery...2 that bolt to the bracket, and 2 to the side of the car...so it should be fine...have you had any issues with having just that one bolt in there??

 

[rush2252]

Oh the bracket.. I just used a pry bar and lightly bent it up out of the way. If you can move it a few inches it gives you plenty of room to get the pliers in there. Just take the tray completely off.

 

[wises4057]

ya, I gathered taking the tray off, I'll have to look at maybe changing it again tomorrow since I have off. thanks for the help and info

 

[cbr600teardrop]

this is from mitchell ondemand 5
DTC P1105 - FUEL PRESSURE SOLENOID MALFUNCTION
NOTE: For terminal identification, see TERMINAL IDENTIFICATION in SELF-DIAGNOSTICS section. For circuit and wire color identification, see WIRING DIAGRAMS - 2.0L - TURBO article.


Disconnect Black vacuum hose from fuel pressure solenoid nipple. Disconnect electrical connector. Connect hand vacuum pump to solenoid nipple where hose was connected. Apply vacuum to solenoid. Go to next step.
Apply battery voltage across solenoid terminals. Vacuum should be maintained with voltage applied and should leak with voltage not applied. If vacuum is not as specified, replace solenoid. If vacuum is as specified, go to next step.
Turn ignition off. Check resistance between solenoid terminals. If resistance is 36-44 k/ohms at 68°F (20°C), go to next step. If resistance is not as specified, replace solenoid.
Turn ignition on. Check voltage between ground and solenoid connector terminal No. 1. If battery voltage exists, go to next step. If battery voltage does not exist, check wiring harness between MFI relay and solenoid.
Turn ignition off. Disconnect PCM connector. Turn ignition on. Check voltage between ground and PCM connector terminal No. 3. If battery voltage exists, check PCM connector. If PCM connector is okay, replace PCM. If battery voltage does not exist, check solenoid connector. If connector is okay, check wiring harness between PCM and solenoid.

 

[cbr600teardrop]

wires 1 is blu/red 2 red pcm is Behind Center Console