Crank to flywheel dowel pin

[streetdsmpwr]

I have read some threads on here saying that 2G's never had a dowel pin on the crank to align the flywheel. I am in the middle of a clutch job on my 99 GSX, and it did not have the dowel pin in it. However, the previous owner had replaced the clutch, so he may have lost it when he replaced the clutch and flywheel. Does anyone know for sure whether or not 2G 7-bolts had a crank to flywheel dowel pin? I don't want to risk anything, especially for a $2 part. Thanks!

 

[NHerron]

According to Mitsubishi ASA (parts program) there is no dowel between crank and flywheel on your 2G. There is 3 for the flywheel to the PP, but that's it.

There is a dowel for the 1G engines, the program confirms that. Doesn't look like there is one for 2G though.

It would be nice if someone popped in with why there isn't one.

 

[squeak104]

Both my 95s did not have a dowel pin in them. However both cars got a P300 multiple misfire code until I took it back apart and put a dowel pin in it. Most people do not have a problem putting it together without one but I did. I would reccomend one. If you get one put it in the freezer overnight and it will go right in the crank with a couple taps of the hammer.

 

[NHerron]

That's interesting. So there is a provision for a dowel but doesn't actually come with one? So is it the same size as the 1G dowel? The 1G dowel is 9MM x 14MM for reference

 

[WES_393]

There was no dowel pin on my crank. I haven't had any related issues. But I did line up the dowel holes when installing rather than blindly install the flywheel.

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Personally, I find it kind of hard to believe a missing dowel would cause misfires. Vibrations maybe, but I don't see how it would affect the ignition system.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

I don't have one in my 6 bolt because the engine was originally in an automatic car. By the time I found out I was supposed to have one, the crank had already been balanced, and the engine was in the car. I don't think I'll ever put one in unless I happen to be having the crank balanced again anyway.

For what it's worth N/A 6 bolt 4G63s don't use the dowel either.

 

[squeak104]

From some discussions I had with others the factory flywheel absorbs some harmonics that a lightened flywheel will not. If the flywheel is not centered just right on the bolts because there is some slop, (I always did the best I could to center) there will be an excessive amount of harmonic vibration that transfers to the crank sensor and sends a false signal to the ecu. At about 65 mph my cars would bring cel on for P300 and it would go into a spitting fit. The car would barely accelerate and would go lean. If I pushed clutch in and let the rpms drop it would die and I could let the clutch back out and it would restart and be fine until I got to 65 again. If I would let rpms drop and rev it a few times it would go away till I got to 65 again.

Both times I dropped the trans put in a dowel and all was well no more issues. One car had a Fidanza flywheel the other ACT. The second car with the ACT I could barely keep it at 55 without it going into a spitting and sputtering fit.

Not sure about what year it was for. Just got them from extremepsi when I got my clutch stuff.

 

[Paul@RTM]

I have read some threads on here saying that 2G's never had a dowel pin on the crank to align the flywheel

Not true. As per CAPS: MF472404 8x18 dowel pin flywheel to crankshaft

 

[19Eclipse90]

Not true. As per CAPS: MF472404 8x18 dowel pin flywheel to crankshaft

Is there a reason there are three of those?

Pretty certain those are the pressure plate to flywheel dowels.

Crankshaft Dowel Pin Part Number

 

[NHerron]

Not true. As per CAPS: MF472404 8x18 dowel pin flywheel to crankshaft

That part number is the pin for the flywheel to PP. If you enter this number is ASA, it comes up showing the illustration for the pin that aligns the rear main seal housing which is MF472403, not MF472404.

Looking up MF472404 on Google shows they are for the PP which utilizes 3 of them

Is there a reason there are three of those?

Pretty certain those are the flywheel dowels.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/431383-crankshaft-dowel-pin-part-number.html

So that settles it. This dowel pin (MD005994 which is 9 x 14MM) works for both 1G & 2G to align the flywheel to crankshaft.

 

[streetdsmpwr]

Thanks guys. I definitely want to run one, the only problem is that my car is at my buddy's house and I don't want to leave it there all week while I wait to get the dowel pin. It doesn't help that extremepsi is closed tomorrow and Tuesday, or I would run up there a get one. Hopefully the dealership has one. My car ran for at least 20,000 miles with an ACT streetlight without it, so it doesn't seen to be critical, but I don't want to take any chances.

 

[NHerron]

Any type of Chrysler (Dodge Jeep etc etc) dealer or Mitsu will have one or they can get one asap. Since Eagle Talon is the same stuff ya know. Just don't mention Mitsubishi or they might get their pants in a bunch about it. Just say Eagle.

MD005994

 

[bastarddsm]

There is a drill bit that is just about the right size, I have cut a piece off of the shank and used that before in a pinch.

23/64"s is big and 11/32 is small.

 

[NHerron]

Good idea, drill bit material would probably be very suitable.

 

[estoyaqui30]

I've had my 99 GSX engine apart a few times and the first time that I took off the harmonic balancer, there was not a locating pin. Just the 4 bolts

 

[estoyaqui30]

Oops, sorry. I miss read the title. Flywheel definitely does have a pin.

 

[NHerron]

I've had my 99 GSX engine apart a few times and the first time that I took off the harmonic balancer, there was not a locating pin. Just the 4 bolts

The sprocket has a spring pin pressed into the sprocket. AKA roll pin.

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Oops, sorry. I miss read the title. Flywheel definitely does have a pin.

On your 2G you found a dowel pin that locates the FW to crankshaft?

 

[estoyaqui30]

Yes, it did have one, but not on the harmonic balancer. So, it seems mine was odd?

 

[NHerron]

Do you know if anyone ever rebuilt the engine or if it's completely stock, never worked on. It'd be nice to know what's up with this dowel pin business on the 2G's

 

[estoyaqui30]

Before I did anything on it. The car did have the clutch replaced by TurboTrix. At that point the car was almost new. Just under 2 years and about 20,000 miles and had never been touched.

 

[Paul@RTM]

Is there a reason there are three of those?

Pretty certain those are the flywheel dowels.

Yikes, you got me on that one. They ARE the fw to pp dowels. Hard to believe Mitsu would choose to not include a crank to fw pin, but I guess they did. Makes me wonder what the heck else they chose to omit. Glad I'm rockin' a 6-bolt in my 2g.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Both my 95s did not have a dowel pin in them. However both cars got a P300 multiple misfire code until I took it back apart and put a dowel pin in it. Most people do not have a problem putting it together without one but I did. I would reccomend one. If you get one put it in the freezer overnight and it will go right in the crank with a couple taps of the hammer.

From some discussions I had with others the factory flywheel absorbs some harmonics that a lightened flywheel will not. If the flywheel is not centered just right on the bolts because there is some slop, (I always did the best I could to center) there will be an excessive amount of harmonic vibration that transfers to the crank sensor and sends a false signal to the ecu. At about 65 mph my cars would bring cel on for P300 and it would go into a spitting fit. The car would barely accelerate and would go lean. If I pushed clutch in and let the rpms drop it would die and I could let the clutch back out and it would restart and be fine until I got to 65 again. If I would let rpms drop and rev it a few times it would go away till I got to 65 again.

Both times I dropped the trans put in a dowel and all was well no more issues. One car had a Fidanza flywheel the other ACT. The second car with the ACT I could barely keep it at 55 without it going into a spitting and sputtering fit.

Not sure about what year it was for. Just got them from extremepsi when I got my clutch stuff.

These two posts are single-highhandedly, the most amazing pieces of information I've ever come across on Dsmtuners. I've been involved in pretty much every instance of p0300 on here and this is the first time a real gleam of light has ever been cast on the problem. Ever.

Previously, it was simple go hit the usual check list of plugs, wires, wiggle your cas, swap your alt. etc, etc. It was pretty much witchcraft.
Those in the know were able to admit to themselves that the issue was surely clutch related as the problem would always arise shortly after a clutch job with no other changes. It was postulated among us that there must be some sort of imbalance or vibration occurring that was being incorrectly received by some combination of the CAS/CPS.
It is comforting, after all these years to have a better idea, a further insight to the problem.

..p0300 @~65mph? freaking classic

 

[squeak104]

These two posts are single-highhandedly, the most amazing pieces of information I've ever come across on Dsmtuners. I've been involved in pretty much every instance of p0300 on here and this is the first time a real gleam of light has ever been cast on the problem. Ever.

Previously, it was simple go hit the usual check list of plugs, wires, wiggle your cas, swap your alt. etc, etc. It was pretty much witchcraft.
Those in the know were able to admit to themselves that the issue was surely clutch related as the problem would always arise shortly after a clutch job with no other changes. It was postulated among us that there must be some sort of imbalance or vibration occurring that was being incorrectly received by some combination of the CAS/CPS.
It is comforting, after all these years to have a better idea, a further insight to the problem.

..p0300 @~65mph? freaking classic

Try having this issue first start when you are trying to move. We were moving from Indiana to Maryland (around 10 hr drive). My wife was driving the moving truck and me in the car. Problem would surface, pull off the highway to see what was wrong and it ran perfect. Only when I was up to highway speed. After 11 hrs of road time we were half way done on the trip. Ended up getting a trailer for the moving truck and towed it the rest of the way.

 

[GSLENK]

There is a drill bit that is just about the right size, I have cut a piece off of the shank and used that before in a pinch.

23/64"s is big and 11/32 is small.

I know this is a really old thread, but to update...

My old crank had one, I bought a rebuild engine without the pin. No local dealers had the part and I cannot wait to install the engine. I found the following chart:
8.7313mm .34375" 11/32"
8.8mm .3465" M10x1.25 Fine
8.8392mm .348" S
9mm .3543" M10x1 Fine
9.0932mm .358" T 7/16"-14 UNC
9.1281mm .359375" 23/64"

Looks like a T drill but was just perfect. (still had to be pounded in by a hammer) Still think it was a bit too tight. Im gonna have a hell of a time separating the flywheel and crankshaft if that time ever comes.
S was too loose
23/64 was damn tight. Probably would have required the OD to be ground down.

Hope that pin I made (was 9mm x 14mm) didn't offset my balance too much.

As a heads up, the hole in the ACT streetlite FW is slightly larger than the crank hole for the pin. The bit was a much tougher interference fit in the crank than the FW, from my perspective.

 

[bastarddsm]

New pins go in pretty tight. T is probably about right. I might have a new one at home I'll measure and post if I can remember to. Make sure that you Loctite the bolts in the crank and go like 105 ft*bs on them. Use Loctite sparingly and rub it into the threads. If you goop it on it comes up and gets between the crank/flywheel, and eventually wears away. When that happens you loose the clamp load on the flywheel and shit goes downhill fast.