99 GSX electrical problems

[skyrone]

Alright guys so my car has been sitting for two years. it had a short forever in the ignition circuit. Found the short and now I can not get a starter to crank in the car at all. I have changed the battery, unhooked my alternator, checked all my fuses idk whats going on. I have replaced the starter solenoid, the ignition switch, and am still getting no crank or clicks. I relocated the battery to the trunk using 0 gauge wire and have no voltage drop from the battery to the starter. Checked all my connections and ohmed out my terminals and my splice where the hot wire from the trunk connects to the old battery wires and everything tests good. I have relocated my batt ground and old battery ground a couple times to get better deeper grounds and still just not having any luck. I have gotten it to crank a little better by jumpin the solenoid with a wrench but still nothing promising. The engine turns like cake with the ratchet. This is like my 5th starter I've put in this thing and it bench tested fine. I need to get this beast running again before christmas or else shes getting parted out. Please help me if ya can. Hopin luv2ralleye is still around, he was always my go to wiring guy. been out of the game pretty much the 2 years my car hasnt been running. Thanks for any and all help.

 

[9secSLC]

Manual or Auto?

 

[skyrone]

manual

 

[dsmcurse]

The starter has two wires, of course the big 4awg starter wire that's straight from the battery. Then you got a smaller signal wire on the starter. This signal wire goes onto the starter with female spaid kinda connector. It then travels about ten inches and that signal wire then plugs into the engine wire harness. This is a small black wire with a black plastic square shaped plug-in where it connects to engine harness.


Double check that black square shaped single wire plug-in. I've had that issue on my 2G once. Changed starter for the same issue to arise. Further investigation showed me the signal wire of the starter pluging into the engine harness had faulty connection.

Good luck

 

[luv2rallye]

This is a small black wire with a black plastic square shaped plug-in where it connects to engine harness.

Double check that black square shaped single wire plug-in. Further investigation showed me the signal wire of the starter pluging into the engine harness had faulty connection.

I agree. If you're not getting even a click try cleaning and reattaching that connector (that wire is actually a black with yellow marking). If that doesn't work, try touching a hot +12v wire to that starter signal terminal to make sure the starter engages ok. If it does then start trouble shooting from the signal wire back (ie. starter relay and ignition switch).

Note: If the starter turns over slowly that's a different problem.

 

[skyrone]

oh yeah im aware of how it works im just really running out of ideas. Right now I have the signal wire disconnected and im just jumpin the big wire to the solenoid signal wire. im still just getting a bunch of clicking. 0 gauge wire should be plenty to relocate the battery to the trunk right? It is kicker brand wire so I know it is quality stuff too.

alright so i am pretty sure that my wire running to the battery in the hatch needs to be replaced. i just wired the starter standalone to another known good battery and jumped the solenoid and it cranked over like a dream. its just weird ### it worked fine when it quit 2 years ago. Maybe theres some internal corrosion or something in the wire. Either way im gunna replace that tomorrow and probably weld my grounds onto the frame so I hopefully wont have these problems again. I just dont understand how i barely had any voltage drop but apparently the wire was too much resistence to allow the starter to turn.

 

[luv2rallye]

Any large battery cable (+ or -) connection point that has even 0.1 ohm will prevent starter from operating properly. The huge current (50-100A) that flows to starter will drop too much voltage at that point leaving not enough for starter. This point may be a cable terminal (either end) that is not clean, is corroded, not tight enough, large enough, etc or a cable that has a burnt/damaged point inside. The point often cannot be found by measuring resistance because either the meter will not measure that low or the resistance changes when the large current flows, etc. The better way is to measure voltage drop ONLY WHILE CRANKING. Start by measuring battery voltage while cranking to make sure battery has enough power. Then measure voltage AT THE STARTER TERMINALS to see how much has been dropped while cranking (generally starters need 9.6v minimum while engaged to turn engine over). To find drop, measure voltage across any connection point (eg. battery terminal to battery post) and also along length of cables while cranking. All these voltage measurements must be done when ignition key is in Start position (ie. while cranking or trying to crank).

 

[StephensToySpyder]

seen this problem all the time , theres a rubber plug on your clutch peddel,it broke,when the rubber plug brakes then your clutch sencer is going threw the hole and not engaiging,this is why you dont here a click or the starter working .if you look at the clutch peddle youll see the hole where the sencer is when you push the clutch peddle down .try this and let me no ,the rubber peace that broke should be on the flour in peaces , its like a clear dark puple color.

 

[luv2rallye]

^ Interesting. Didn't know that. Sounds like a real possibility. Of course you can then just unplug it. But unplug the one with the green-black wire - not the cruise disable which has the black-red wire.

Another posibility would be a faulty oem theft alarm (which forces theft alarm starter relay to close which disables the starter relay) or clutch pedal position switch that's staying closed (which disables the starter relay).

 

[skyrone]

yeah i had already unplugged the clutch sensor, i was getting power all the way through the circuit to the signal wire so I had kind of ruled out that being the problem and all my voltage drops were reasonable. Actually measured the voltage drop holding one of the pins in my mouth so i had a free hand to bump the starter. Thats why i had to isolate the starter aside from the car. Once that kicked it over i figured im just not getting the juice that I need. Boss mans going to order the wire and some distribution blocks in the morning.

 

[luv2rallye]

Thats why i had to isolate the starter aside from the car.

By this I hope you don't mean you had the starter out of the car when you tested it because it will draw wayyyyyy more current turning over the engine/flywheel and so then create way more voltage drop.

Oh 1 more thing: Have the large battery negative cable going directly from battery neg post to a starter mounting bolt on bell housing (not to block or frame or body). And another cable from battery neg to firewall body (Don't go from bat neg to body to starter).

 

[Clew]

Dude, get your multimeter and pull up starting and charging system wiring diagram, and check power and ground n continuity on al ## wires an connections, it probly Somthin silly.. Troubleshoot