2G 16G Installation Parts List

[doubleclutch]

Hey guys,
I am in the process of installing a Evo 3 16G on my 2G GSX and wanted to share a list of parts that I needed to make it happen. I ended up feeding the turbo from the head and will be plugging the OFH feed. I have some extra parts on here such as new intake coupler, etc. but take it for what you will. I included links to most of the parts. I have most of the gaskets listed from RRe's site, but they also can be ordered from JNZ, whose customer service is quite good.

Hopefully this is helpful. Keep in mind that you may also need uncommon things such as turbo to manifold studs, o2 Housing Bolts, or different exhaust gaskets (I am running to into a Megan TBE).

Also, please no flaming for the ebay o2 housing. I have access to a fully capable machine shop to correct any flange/weld issues so after that it is just metal tube stock.

Thanks,
Joe

 

[PlanZero]

Hey I just did my swap. You definitely want to order new OEM turbo bolts. I also got new O2 housing bolts from fastenal and newer manifold studs. Not sure if you're leaving the manifold in place or pulling it all out.
I got a felpro gasket kit from rock auto for $12 (includes all gaskets needed, including j pipe) and felpro exhaust mani gasket for $5.
Not sure what a water line gasket is, and I'm curious as to why you're using the head instead of OFH to feed from. And what are you using heat wrap on? You can reuse the stock heat shield even with a tubular O2 housing.
Also make sure you have a fresh rotary rasp bit or step bit to open up those oil drain tube holes. Helps a lot.
I used RREs "tweaker" install guide and everything worked great.

 

[doubleclutch]

Plan Zero,
I can't use the oem turbo bolts since I have a tubular manifold that has a smaller flange. I ended up using my old studs because they were in good shape. What us the reason for suggesting to buy new?

Manifold stayed, otherwise you would need a new gasket.

Didn't know rock auto had a kit like that. Good to know. Might have saved a few $$.

The copper crush washers are what I mean by "water line gasket".

I have read that the ofh line pressure is too high for 14b/16g turbos and can blow out the seals. 14b is fed from the head stock anyways on the 1g. It was a tough call because people seemed to be split on the topic, but I felt feeding from the head was the safer route.

I don't have the original heat sheild so I was going to wrap the o2 housing and possibly the manifold.

Yes RREs tweaker guide is what I used as well. Haven't ground out the holes yet, but I will make sure to pick up a new rasp.

 

[Dsmkauai]

Fed my 16g from the head on my 2g with no issues at all. Shoot I maxed that turbo out haha. If you use the ofh you will need a restrictor!

 

[PlanZero]

1g 14bs and 16gs have the restrictor built into the banjo fitting on the stock feed line (from the head). 2g T25s have the restrictor in the adaptor on the ofh. On a 1g you can just reuse the stock feed line, on a 2g many people find it easier to use a SS line from the ofh than sourcing from the head. If your not using stock 1g feed line from the head you need a restrictor.
If you are swapping one MHI for another the head is the intended location from Mitsubishi, and thousands have ran it with no problems. Others stick to the belief that journal bearing turbos should be fed from the ofh and ball bearing turbos be fed from the head.
For an MHI turbo either will work. IMO It's just easier on a 2g to swap to a SS line. Just curious.
It is always highly recommend to replace your turbo bolts and washers, especially if you're attempting a swap on a 20 year old car. If they don't snap coming out they may snap going in. If your tubular manifold studs are newer, just reuse them. I reused my water line crush washers with no problem, as the tweaker guide suggested.
Did you put new oil drain tube bolts on your list? 16gs have different size bolts than t25s.
Have fun!

 

[doubleclutch]

I not sure your comments are accurate. From what I have read, a restriction is not need in the feed line from the head because the pressure is already lower than that of the OFH, seeing as the restrictoion is there to drop pressure. I am running stainless from the head, which is really easy, and can get rid of one of those nasty very-close-to-the-ground-easily-damaged-hard-lines. I am going to re-use the bolts, if they snap they snap then i can buy new ones. Not that hard to get them out. Curious to why you re-used the washer when they would only have cost 4$ and it would be god piece of mind?

Yes I ran into the return line bolt issue last night. Do you happen to know what size those are? looks like an M6 to me.

 

[Dsmkauai]

I was just about to say the same thing. I ran my 16g from the head with a ss line and no restriction. I first tried the same setup but at the ofh and the turbo blew oil and smoked bad. Once I switched to the head it stopped and ran perfect.

 

[PlanZero]

I was just going by by research, specifically Justin's info

You're going to see anywhere from 30-50psi less at WOT when feeding from the head. The head is where all TD05H turbos were designed to be fed, so unless you're running one to the MAX (meaning 25+psi) the head should be a sufficient source.

It's been said that feeding a MHI turbo from the head will not provide enough oil to the thrust plate at high boost when thrust loads are the greatest, although I've seen thrust plate wear on 20G's that customers of mine have fed from the filter housing unrestricted for their entire life, so I believe this statement is bogus.

The trouble with the head source is the volume of oil certain turbos can gobble up when they're fed from the head....keep in mind a MHI turbo has a restrictor built into the hard metal oil supply line from the head, and is also internally-restricted while a Garrett turbo has a 1/4" oil supply hole with no restriction. This literally robs oil volume and pressure from the rest of the head if your baseline oil pressure isn't high enough (example- if you still have balance shafts) and can lower the overall pressure at the head enough that damage to the turbo will occur. Keep in mind this does not apply to MHI turbos, which are designed for low pressure feeds.


Both of your statements here are completely false.

The head source has significantly lower pressure than the filter housing, mostly due to the routing of the oil and the pressure loss from such things like the oil squirters.

...and it doesn't matter where you draw your oil from, it will be clean (unless you've tapped into the dirty side of the filter housing). All of the oil passing through the engine block has just been cleaned by the filter, so even the head is seeing clean oil.

I've already torn down turbos which were fed from the filter housing from customers with blown engines and the turbos were full of metal, so even the oil you're insisting is "cleaner" may not be as clean as you think.

Or

http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-239882.html

I got my 16g used from a fellow tuner with the j pipe and ss feed line, so it was convenient to use it as well.
I actually reused the crush washers because my replacements were the wrong size, and rre said I could.
I used M6 1.0 16mm nuts with wide washers on the drain to cover the bored out holes, with ultra black on the threads for good measure.