hx-35 divided housing dilema

[slikvik]

So I recently aquired an HX-35w 7 blade. I plan on putting it on my 1991 Galant GSX auto, with a rebuilt 6bolt turbo block and used turbo auto trans.
I have been researching for the last couple days and have come to the conclusion that I must stick with the t3 housing to reach the flow potential of this turbo.

OPTION 1 (VERY EXPENSIVE)

I don't want to spend $1500 on a twin scroll manifold, and two wastegates. Although my research has proven that this option would generate the best/quickest spool, and best boost control, I would rather use an open manifold on the divided housing. Here is what I found in my research: -using the open manifold on the stock divided housing will result in a laggier spool, instead of getting boost at around the 3,000-3,500 rpm range, it will be around 4,000-4,500 rpm range.

OPTION 2 (Cheaper)

I found that if I wanted to do this setup, I could just knife edge the divider. (like shown here in this picture). I would still need to use an external wastegate on the manifold for boost control.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

OPTION 3 (Cheapest)

Alternitively, I found this on a volvo forum (pictures below). A member on there was dead set on using the internal gate and an open manifold. Here is what he did, he opened the wastegate hole substantially! He also ground down the diver deeper into the manifold, as well as knife edged it, so that the exhaust gasses could exit through both sides of the turbine housing as opposed to the original design, through one side of the housing.

Sadly, this member never used this housing so there are no real world results to how well this would have performed.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

My question(s) are:

1)Is anyone on here running the stock divided housing with an open manifold? If so, how well does it spool and at what RPM?

2)For the last scenerio shown above, how well do you think it would perform? Do you think porting the wastegate flapper and grinding down the divider would be enough to control boost?

I would appreciate any insight, comments, or answers. Thanks.

 

[bastarddsm]

I ran my 8 blade wh1c with a 12cm divided and an open t3 manifold, it spooled slow as balls. You'll need lots of nitrous to get your auto up on the convertor.

I did not use the internal gate, however I had planned on it. I was going to leave the divider intact. I don't see any problems with the internal gate, the only thing is don't plan on running lower than about 20psi.

I just out an hy35 on my car yesterday, I'm using a treadstone manifold, and the internal gate. This setup kicks ass, I have the holset actuator off my wh1c on it and it holds a solid 20psi from 4200-8000. I'm going to upgrade to one of these T3 T3/T4 T04E TURBO DUAL PORT WASTEGATE ACTUATOR 8PSI | eBay and a mini regulator to control the boost.

 

[slikvik]

I ran my 8 blade wh1c with a 12cm divided and an open t3 manifold, it spooled slow as balls. You'll need lots of nitrous to get your auto up on the convertor.

I did not use the internal gate, however I had planned on it. I was going to leave the divider intact. I don't see any problems with the internal gate, the only thing is don't plan on running lower than about 20psi.

I just out an hy35 on my car yesterday, I'm using a treadstone manifold, and the internal gate. This setup kicks ass, I have the holset actuator off my wh1c on it and it holds a solid 20psi from 4200-8000. I'm going to upgrade to one of these T3 T3/T4 T04E TURBO DUAL PORT WASTEGATE ACTUATOR 8PSI | eBay and a mini regulator to control the boost.

That's exactly what I wanted to hear.

So your getting full spool at 4200RPM? And did you port the internal gate passage or do anything special with the divider?

 

[bastarddsm]

That's exactly what I wanted to hear.

So your getting full spool at 4200RPM? And did you port the internal gate passage or do anything special with the divider?

No no no! The hy35 is a completely different turbo. It has a 9cm single scroll housing. But I didn't port anything tho.

So far, after running this turbo, and a a WH1c both an open and twin scroll setup, I don't see any reason at all to run a hx35.

 

[slikvik]

No no no! The hy35 is a completely different turbo. It has a 9cm single scroll housing. But I didn't port anything tho.

So far, after running this turbo, and a a WH1c both an open and twin scroll setup, I don't see any reason at all to run a hx35.

Oh! Hy35, i missed that.

Yeah, I Just don't feel like dropping mad amounts of money into a manifold/wastegate setup.

 

[forcefed86]

I ran my 8 blade wh1c with a 12cm divided and an open t3 manifold, it spooled slow as balls. You'll need lots of nitrous to get your auto up on the convertor.

I did not use the internal gate, however I had planned on it. I was going to leave the divider intact. I don't see any problems with the internal gate, the only thing is don't plan on running lower than about 20psi.

I just out an hy35 on my car yesterday, I'm using a treadstone manifold, and the internal gate. This setup kicks ass, I have the holset actuator off my wh1c on it and it holds a solid 20psi from 4200-8000. I'm going to upgrade to one of these T3 T3/T4 T04E TURBO DUAL PORT WASTEGATE ACTUATOR 8PSI | eBay and a mini regulator to control the boost.

Be careful, most of those dual port actuators are a gimmick. I ordered one that looked very similar to that. The lower port is not sealed, air leaks right out the shaft of the actuator. When I called to return it they say the lower port is for quicker release. (total BS) A true dual port actuator is usually pretty expensive. OBX makes some of the cheapest. I ended up with an external gate so I can't say how well they work.

To the OP...

This is another creative option. Much like the "Quick spool valves" but with DIY cheapness.


Quick spool valve built into Turbine - YouTube


Also watch out not to make the divider as thin as the pictures above. Those areas will glow redhot and crack, possibly breaking loose and damaging the turbo. Look at the bluntness of the divider made in this video for a good reference. A divided 16cm housing would be about perfect IMO. You also do not need to go crazy porting out the WG flapper. There is a reason the opening is half the size of the flapper. It has to do with the amount of force acting on the flapper itself. A huge hole like that will have issues blowing the flapper open. You can of course fight it some what with heavier actuators, but there really isn't a reason to. Factory equipment works great.