The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

boost controller installed does not work

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

clipser

15+ Year Contributor
41
0
May 9, 2005
port st lucie, Florida
i just bought this boost controller off ebay i installed using vfaq and no matter where i turn it to it wont boost over about 10psi,
its weird though i thought the tee should flow straight through it doesnt it's like a one way valve and it has this little sticker on it that says arrow points to wastegate actuator and theres an arrow. i figured it should be pointed towards the bov so i tryed it that way and it wouldnt boost over 10psi then i turned it towards the throttle body and still nothing over 10psi. then i thought maybe i had the hoses on the controller swapped i tryed it and still nothing over 10 psi. it has that same sticker with an arrow saying arrow points towards wastegate actuator. im clueless.
is there something i missed in the installation i read something about the bcs, im not sure where it is but wherever it is i left it alone and never modded it, do i have to unplug it ??
also those two nipples on the waste gate solenoid should i plug those??
it didnt say to on vfaq.

driving the car seemed weird because it would spool up real slowly and then it would just take off really fast i dont even know how to describe it. also it seemed louder.
while driving it around trying to adjust it i ate some guy in an RX-8 but i always eat them,
just for reference the boost controller nipple are both right next to each other on the controller so that gets me confused because i dont know which is which. and it's the kind that clicks into place.
im gonna use another tee to see if that works

sorry about the book you guys have to read but i couldnt make it any shorter
all help is appreciated oh its a1996 GST not the 1G in the pic
 
1. Do you have an aftermarket boost gauge?
2. what kind of MBC is it?
3. yes, you get rid of the BCS when installing a MBC.

If its just a cheap e-bay MBC(or and homemade ball and spring type) sometimes you have to play with the spring inside. Either strech it out or cut off some coils.
 
its an ebay one.
should the waste gate solenoid be disconnected
i disconected it and still the same thing it wont go over 9.5-10psi
 
I have the same problem. I have a Kinetic Motorsports (aka Slowboy racing...they use some of the same parts) MBC, and no matter how I turn it, I wont boost past stock boost levels (9-10psi). Ill spike 20psi, then drop to 9-10 by redline. What could be wrong? Could there be a boost leak that isnt holding boost past 10psi?

Boost controller Im using:
http://www.kineticmotorsport.com/catalog/kinetic-motorsport-manual-boost-controller-p-948.html

SBR mbc (same MBC):
http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=1018&
 
I'm kinda confused here. It should be like this:

2 nipples one the boost controller. One goes to your boost source (wherever you'd like that to be). And the other one goes to the wastegate.

I'm guessing the arrow that "goes to the wastegate actuator" should bed pointing to a nipple, and that nipple would connect a hose to the wastegate actuator.

Post a pic of the dang thing. That'd probably help a lot! :)
 
agreed^^^^ follow the instruction on the boost controller. The bottom nipple of most ball and spring type boost controllers goes to the wastegate actuator and the side nippe goes to a boost source. I'm thinking you may need to cut some coils off the spring inside. A boost leak test is also always a good idea.
 
SlowboyCSE said:
http://www.slowboyracing.com/downloads/extras/BoostControllerCheat/SBR-controller-cheat.jpg

Not trying to sell my parts, it's a picture on how to hook up a Manual Boost Controller.

Cragger
No offence Cragger but I respectfully disagree with that linked diagram, the BOV line is the worst place to tap for the pressure source. Furthermore, the diagram only covers the typical ball/spring type mbc, not all mbc's are hooked the same way, TurboXS standard bleeder type mbc for example.
 
Oldman is correct. BOV line is the easiest but not the best.

I was posting a picture that was made 4 years ago sadly before i had half a clue.

Compressor cover nipple would be a much better choice if you have one.
 
oldman said:
No offence Cragger but I respectfully disagree with that linked diagram, the BOV line is the worst place to tap for the pressure source. Furthermore, the diagram only covers the typical ball/spring type mbc, not all mbc's are hooked the same way, TurboXS standard bleeder type mbc for example.

Any pressure source will work just fine, I suspect hooking it to the EGT bung would be the "worst place" to take a pressure reading from... It's damn hot, and about 2x the actual pressure of what your intake pressure would be :)

:spam: < That's me.

MGH
 
Slowboy said:
Any pressure source will work just fine
Maybe so (excluding the BOV line) but some will work better, more precise and more consistantly than others. The reason the BOV line should not be used (second worst source other than the EGT bung :) ) is for the sake of the BOV, not the MBC.
 
i think its the boost controller itself because it wont go past 9.5 psi no matter what i do,
i just hooked it up using brute's diagram directly off the turbo housing and it still is 9.5
i heard something about stretching out the spring should i strectch it out or cut it down if i need more boost??
thanks
and for some odd reason it wont let me put pictures in
 
is there anyone in or around the treasure coast area of florida that could help
also im trying to get a dsm meet together if anyone is interested
 
clipser said:
i think its the boost controller itself because it wont go past 9.5 psi no matter what i do
What psi do you get if you just hook the boost/vac line directly to the wastegate actuator (e.g. cutting the MBC out completely)?

If you get > 9.5psi, it's possible that the wastegate itself is not fully closed at rest :dsm:
 
DSM90AWD said:
What psi do you get if you just hook the boost/vac line directly to the wastegate actuator (e.g. cutting the MBC out completely)?

If you get > 9.5psi, it's possible that the wastegate itself is not fully closed at rest :dsm:
John, removing the mbc and supplying the actuator directly with pressure source will always yield the lowest possible boost whether the flapper is fully closed or not. 9.5 psi is actually not out of range for stock spring ratings on the actuator, I have seen anywhere between 8-12psi. Assuming the mbc is hooked up properly (remains to be seen, I'm waiting for a pic or a link, I'm hoping it wouldn't be the cheap ebay in cockpit one with the seperate T connector in the engine bay), I suspect the tension of the spring in the mbc is either too light, too short or it's wedged side ways allowing pressure source to move freely to the actuator.
 
i took the boost controller out and blew through it while opening the valve and it would allow more air through as i was opening it so im assuming it's functioning the way it should
then i turned it all the way closed and took my car for a spin and increased the boost to about 10psi, this makes no sense to me at all, the only thing i can think of is that i have a boost leak but even if i have a boost leak why is it that severe and why did my car spool to10.5 perfectly before the mbc install
i tryed to take apart the mbc but there is no way i could see it coming apart.
i have it hooked up according to brute's diagram right off the turbo.

and the site wont let me put any pictures on so there wont be any

this is the boost controller i bought the same exact one from the same exact guy here's the item number it wont let me post a link 250023321249
 
clipser said:
this is the boost controller i bought the same exact one from the same exact guy here's the item number it wont let me post a link 250023321249
How did I know it was that one! :cry: I know very little about this mbc but I do know the main body is a bleeder valve, not a ball and spring so Brute's drawing doesn't apply here as far as inlet and outlet fittings on the mbc. Have you double checked your instructions against the real TutboSmart one?

then i turned it all the way closed and took my car for a spin and increased the boost to about 10psi, this makes no sense to me at all, the only thing i can think of is that i have a boost leak but even if i have a boost leak why is it that severe and why did my car spool to10.5 perfectly before the mbc install
To eliminate things, test run with the actuator fitting open, the desired result is all out boost, keep your eyes on the boost gauge and let off when it passes 15psi. If in fact you're able to boost past your 9.5psi, go back to the mbc/installation. If problem persists, go through the usual suspects, boost leaks, actuator/flapper, pre-turbo exhaust leaks, turbo/shaftplay, compression...etc.
 
i think im gonna buy another MBC because this one i have a bad feeling about i want to spend about the same amount of money roughly 25 dollars
i was looking on ebay and on here and the voodoo III looks pretty good
has anyone had anyexperience with it or does anyone know of a better buy

also i still am unsure about this, is my wastegate solenoid supposed to be unplugged??
it is the liitle black thing with two nipples on it held in by one bolt?
somebody please clear that up for me
 
For the amount of money you want to spend, you should just make your own! That's what I did and it's working great still. Plus, you can adjust it yourself, put in different springs and such. You can also get a greater understanding of how they work. Getting mine set up taught me everything I know about how they work.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top