Have a quick question about TB shaft seals (brands)

[Coup D E'Tat]

I'm going to be replacing my shaft seals since the throttle body is off of the car anyways for FIAV/ISC blockoff.

My question is, have people have good experiences with these ones -

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Or is it the norm to buy (order) these -

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I'm just wondering because I would like to get everything back together and not have to wait to order the second one, whereas I could probably pick up the first ones from Home Depot or the like.



Thanks a lot,

Jesse

 

[Syndicate13]

I have done 3 TB's using the Home Depot rings and never had a problem. I just did one recently that was leaking badly and now it holds 25 psi without a problem.

 

[almostquick]

can you give the complete part number and brand for the home depot seals, I'm in the process of fixing up a N/T TB that Im going to eliminate the whole bottom part and would like to replace the seals also. thanks in advance.

 

[steve]

As you'll note from the VFAQ you found the picture in, I used the CR Seals. They looked and fit just like the originals without any issues of binding that some people report when using o-rings.

Steve

 

[Syndicate13]

can you give the complete part number and brand for the home depot seals, I'm in the process of fixing up a N/T TB that Im going to eliminate the whole bottom part and would like to replace the seals also. thanks in advance.

I's just a normal #7 O ring. 1/2 x 3/8 x 1/16 is the size.

 

[Coup D E'Tat]

I ended up using the Home Depot o-rings because I could pick them up local.

Everything is reassembled, but not back on the car yet, but it all went together smoothly.

 

[punishercb]

Would those seal sizes fit a 2g throttle body too? I really need to rebuild mine too.

 

[Syndicate13]

Would those seal sizes fit a 2g throttle body too? I really need to rebuild mine too.

Yes, the TB shafts are interchangeable through all years.

 

[Burnett03]

i used o-rings and they leaked.. i used mach v seals and no more leaks

 

[punishercb]

i used o-rings and they leaked.. i used mach v seals and no more leaks

Is there a lube that is supposed to applied when changing? Maybe that could be why??

 

[Coup D E'Tat]

Boost leak tested again tonight. Found another leak, but the shaft seals held fine.

 

[steve]

Boost leak tested again tonight. Found another leak.

It's amazing just how many places there are for these things to leak from.
It make a huge difference once you get the intake to hold your boost pressure without leaking so it's worth the effort.

Steve

 

[Coup D E'Tat]

Yea. Everything is solid, except the 90* coupler from the turbo to the lower I/C pipe. I took it off to put my tester on there (didn't have my 3" to 2" coupler at my house,) and I guess when I put it back on, something didn't sit flush.

Oh well, back to the ole' drawing board.

 

[2GeNTSi]

I'm going to revive this real quick...

I was reading hte VFAQ on how to to the disassembly and it says the hardest part is removing the screws from the tb shaft. Did you guys have problems doing this as well? I really want to fix my leak because I think this is causing me to run rich (according to the datalogger 1v at times). I've done a boost leak test and fixed one but the other one is coming from the tb somewhere and I'm pretty sure it's the seals.

 

[Coup D E'Tat]

I'm going to revive this real quick...

I was reading hte VFAQ on how to to the disassembly and it says the hardest part is removing the screws from the tb shaft. Did you guys have problems doing this as well? I really want to fix my leak because I think this is causing me to run rich (according to the datalogger 1v at times). I've done a boost leak test and fixed one but the other one is coming from the tb somewhere and I'm pretty sure it's the seals.

While I have removed 6 screws from three different throttle bodies, three screws just didn't come out pretty. However, I didn't need to drill any out.

My advice - find a screwdriver that fits VERY well, and press hard when starting to remove them. Take your time, and you shouldn't have to drill any out.

Also, I always use the Home Depot o-rings with some lithium tune up grease.

 

[daren_p]

I just replaced my seals & I used the CR seals in the lower picture, installed them with die electric grease like the vfaq says. They fit perfect & when I did a boost leak test they sealed perfect. As for taking the screw out mine weren't that bad, just make sure you have a screw driver that fits well and is a good size so you can get some torque on it. You want to be pressing down while you turn. If you still aren't able to get them out or they strip abit I found this works: Get the proper sized screwdrive with an octagon shaped shaft, hammer the screwdriver into the screw. Get an adjustable wrench and put it on the screwdriver shaft. Have one person pressing down hard on the screwdriver while another person turns the screwdriver with the adjustable wrench.

The reason I know this is I had to take the tb all back apart after I put the spring on (and red loctited the tb plate screws) and realised there are 3 things you have to pay attention to and not just two like the vfaq says. Not only do you have to pay attention to the tb shaft & plate top/bottom, what side faces in & out but also which angle you insert the tb plate in (if its above or below the tb center line depending if you insert it back into the shaft from the front or the back of the tb). This determines which way it will open.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

I have done a few TB seal jobs in the last 3 months on 1Gs and 2Gs. The o-rings work fine on the 91 on up. No binding or problems what-so-ever. However, I did one on a 90...The o-ring for the smaller side ended up binding up on us to much for my liking, so we ended up going with the proper seals.

I personally spend the extra couple of bucks to get the proper seals for my car. The difference is $2-$3 for the proper seal each as opposed to .25-.30 cents for o-rings each. To me, my car is worth the extra $5.

my .02

 

[Stapl3]

i used mach v seals and no more leaks

For the archives, "MachV seals" Are simply CR o-rings.

1990 guys need 1 #3930 and 1 #3030
1991-1999 guys need 2 #3930

http://web.applied.com/base.cfm?page_id=1506

-or-

http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDet...=SEARCHRESULTS&MfrCode=CRA&MfrPartNumber=3930

 

[dnhieu]

i have replaced the seals in at least 5 throttle bodys in the last year and i have used o-rings in all of them. none of them leaked under a boost leak test at 20psi. i will continue to use o-rings untill i run out of the proper size o-rings in my kit

 

[steve]

For the archives, "MachV seals" Are simply CR o-rings.

The CR3090 seals that MachV sells are not o-rings, they are seals.

Steve

 

[Stapl3]

Same difference. Call 'em what you want.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

Same difference. Call 'em what you want.

Actually there is a big difference.

An o-ring has a circular cross section that gets distorted under pressure in order to form its seal, while a seal is generally a "flapper" style design that if properly installed will "expand" if you will and actually create a tighter "seal" under pressure.

Although o-rings work great in the 91 and up, I've used them with success several times, I didn't like them on the 90 TB that I did. The smaller side was just too tight for me and we just couldn't seem to find the right size.

Everyone has their own opinion, I just like to use seals on mine.

 

[steve]

Same difference. Call 'em what you want.

Since this is a technical forum we aim to be as accurate as we can and our reputations depend on it.

Steve

 

[Stapl3]

Just call them rubber cheerios. This is the stupid shit people argue about on the internet. It doesn't matter in real life. Call CR right now and ask for ring #3930, I'm sure you'll get an "OK".

 

[oldman]

Just call them rubber cheerios. This is the stupid shit people argue about on the internet. It doesn't matter in real life. Call CR right now and ask for ring #3930, I'm sure you'll get an "OK".

Calm down, you're as a much part of this so call "stupid argument" as anyone. Bottom line, they are SHAFT SEALS, different design that serves a different purpose than O-RING.