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T04b V-trim Install & Comments

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98GSX-WI

15+ Year Contributor
131
0
Jun 6, 2004
Kenosha, Wisconsin
I thought that I would provide all of you with the details on the T04b V-trim install that was finished this last weekend. The T04b replaced a FP Big 28 that I had been running for approximately one year.

First off—regarding the assertion that the turbo is a direct bolt-on—sure the turbo is…but then there are all of the supporting parts… There are some key pieces of information that should go along with the direct bolt-on statement:
1) The oil drain line may not be long enough. Mine wasn't. Waited 1 week to get extension fitting from B-E supplier and rented a car in the meantime. When I didn't get it in 1 week, drove an hour to get longer –10AN braid hose on a Saturday afternoon from one of the few stores that had it in stock and was open on a Sat afternoon.
2) Wastegate actuator hit stock fan…had to order slimline fan for ~$99 and paid $54 to have it shipped next day. OMG
3) The compressor housing needed to be rotated to mate with the lower intercooler pipe.
4) The 90 deg silicone elbow just barely fit onto the lower intercooler pipe.
5) The wastegate actuator was set at tension higher than my desired application. I had thought that I ordered a low-pressure actuator (max 20 psi). However, when test-driving, my boost spiked to 25 psi. I needed to loosen the actuator arm by about 5 full turns counterclockwise, to get to 20 psi. While this was not that big of a deal, it certainly could have been if I would have blown the head gasket.

Overall Conclusions:
1) For vendors selling turbos, all parts should be the minimum size to fit 95+ of the intended applications. Which means that the oil drain line needs to be longer…period! The 90 deg coupler should also be made longer on both ends. If parts like these are slightly bigger or longer than desired…then they can be cut to size.
2) The vendor webpage where the turbos are being sold should indicate that the turbo may hit the fan and that the fan may need replacing and offer sale of a suitable fan at a reasonable price, or provide a link to one.
3) All of these little "problems" could (and in my opinion should) be listed on the vendor webpage with instructions on how to deal with them.

Turbo Performance:
Unfortunately, I believe that I have a boost leak and can't really give a fair comment on the performance quite yet. Had the leak with the Big28, and didn't deal with it at the time because I knew that my actuator arm was a bit loose and attributed my slower than normal spool to the actuator. Didn't tighten the actuator because I knew I was going to swap the turbo soon. FPBig28 was spooling at 3500-3800…when I think it should have spooled around 3200. So now the T04b V-trim is spooling at between 4200-4500. I will check for leaks this weekend when the Tester I ordered comes in.

A couple of curious comments though:
1) The exhaust seems noticeable quieter and smoother with the T04b. Not sure why this is. (Although, maybe it's my imagination…since I haven't driven the car in over a week…LOL).
2) As expected, the T04b is not as responsive as the Big28 at the lower rpms…but when it hits 5000 rpms and up; the turbo certainly feels stronger than the Big28.
3) Also as expected, with the much higher flow, I needed to adjust the SAFC from –5% across the board to adding fuel in the high throttle settings to avoid knock. (I have keydiver chip where knock is registered on factory boost gauge). With Big28 in Wisconsin, when temps were 10 deg F I had the SAFC at –15%….when temps where 40 deg F I had the SAFC at –10%, and at 70 deg F I had the SAFC at –5% (note that all settings are adjustments from where already EPROM compensated).
4) I am running a Hahn SMIC right now. I plan to see how things go this summer...but may make upgrade to H20 injection into intercooler and TB or upgrade to FMIC.

I'm looking forward to logging and tuning with this turbo and eventually hitting the dyno. My goal was between 350-400 hp. I am running 20 psi right now, but will probably get a little adventurous and bump it up to 22 psi soon. (I ran the Big28 at 20 psi for a year with no ill effects).

I will provide updates on performance as soon as I get my boost leaks taken care of. Happy Modding
 
As far as the slmline fan, rather than paying to have one shipped, I went and picked this 14'' fan for $70.00 at Advance Auto. It clears the actuator beautifully.
 
98GSX - was your actuator hitting the fan blade itself? For me two of the support beams were in the way of the outlet elbow, so I just cut them off. The remaining ones seem rigid enough to keep the integrity of the fan. This is on 1g, I don't know if the 2g fan is much different.

psychlow - was the fan easy to install? Did you have to hack the wiring, and does it mount to the stock mounting points?
 
98GSX-WI said:
First off—regarding the assertion that the turbo is a direct bolt-on—sure the turbo is…but then there are all of the supporting parts

Am I the only one that finds humor in this paradox of:

Modding a DSM, and
Bolt-on parts.

I mean, please, it's a DSM, not a carburated small block Chevy. Guess I'm just a little worn out from fabricating FMIC mounts, welding/drilling them, welding pipes, fixing leaks, grinding/welding motor mounts, clocking compressor housings (not T04b), CHRA's, install/re-install about 5 times, just to get clearance and a -10AN drain hose to fit... you know, that old (DSM bolt-on) thing ROFL

Great review 989GSX-WI...except for the part of assuming it'd bolt-on as easy as a 14b/16g. Please post any fixes to the late spool. Would love to hear how it turns out.
 
steel_3d said:
psychlow - was the fan easy to install? Did you have to hack the wiring, and does it mount to the stock mounting points?
It was cake to install, and fit PERFECTLY inside the radiator endtanks. It has nylon ties and springs to mount it in place. I wired it to a fan switch in the driver's compartment, because I like the control of being able to turn it on and off, or just leave it on all the time in the summer to keep things a bit cooler. There's four wires that go to the stock fan - two of them just need to be switched (connected) in order to activate the relay and turn on the fan. I just ran the two power wires to molex connectors (so that the fan can still be removed if necessary) and soldered wires the other two "switch" wires that I ran into the cabin and attached to a switch.

The relay only activates when the key is in the "on" position, so that's an automatic plus. Also, the actuator was in the blades of my 1G stock fan no matter how I clocked it.
 
tmizer said:
Am I the only one that finds humor in this paradox of:

Modding a DSM, and
Bolt-on parts.

I mean, please, it's a DSM, not a carburated small block Chevy. Guess I'm just a little worn out from fabricating FMIC mounts, welding/drilling them, welding pipes, fixing leaks, grinding/welding motor mounts, clocking compressor housings (not T04b), CHRA's, install/re-install about 5 times, just to get clearance and a -10AN drain hose to fit... you know, that old (DSM bolt-on) thing ROFL

Great review 989GSX-WI...except for the part of assuming it'd bolt-on as easy as a 14b/16g. Please post any fixes to the late spool. Would love to hear how it turns out.

Actually, my main point regarding the direct bolt-on issue was that why don't the vendors...who should know the likely problems with the install...disclose these problems up front. For me, it's not the cost. If they included all of the needed parts as a package or somewhere on their website, I would have purchased all of them to begin with. (Including the slim fan and extension to the oil drain line). I've also found...that with a DSM...something always pops up you weren't expecting to bite you in the butt... :D
 
steel_3d said:
98GSX - was your actuator hitting the fan blade itself? For me two of the support beams were in the way of the outlet elbow, so I just cut them off. The remaining ones seem rigid enough to keep the integrity of the fan. This is on 1g, I don't know if the 2g fan is much different.

psychlow - was the fan easy to install? Did you have to hack the wiring, and does it mount to the stock mounting points?

The actuator hit the fan blades. To install the fan, spliced into the wiring and mounted to the stock mounting points.
 
i assume you used the bullseye return drain? I ordered one, what a joke it was. To short, machined wrong and stripped out.
 
Burnett03 said:
i assume you used the bullseye return drain? I ordered one, what a joke it was. To short, machined wrong and stripped out.
I too had problems with my oil drain from them. I have to modify it alot. It ended up costing me more time and money in the long run as apposed to making my own. Everything else in the installation went very smooth though. :dsm:
 
I got my drain from the speedfactor and it was too long as well. I ended up going to the performance shop and making my own an oil drain which costed me $45. I used a straight and a 90 with very little hose. Worked out in the end though.
 
RavenX said:
I got my drain from the speedfactor and it was too long as well. I ended up going to the performance shop and making my own an oil drain which costed me $45. I used a straight and a 90 with very little hose. Worked out in the end though.

Yes, it was the bullseye oil drain....except mine was too short. B-E doesn't make the oil drain piece, it comes from a one-man supplier. They apparently have a fitting for it to extend it...so I ordered one to be shipped next day...and didn't get it after a week...so I had to find some -10AN braid hose and just use the fittings from it oil drain kit I had...
 
Yeah, sorry about the drains everyone. I wish we had time to make those ourselves. If you have any issues we will be more than happy to take care of it with a replacement or refund.
 
98GSX-WI said:
so I ordered one to be shipped next day...and didn't get it after a week...so I had to find some -10AN braid hose and just use the fittings from it oil drain kit I had...

Yeah i know what u mean, It took my oil drain about a week to get to me when it was shipped 2-3 priority mail. Instead the supplier used ground. Needless to say i had to rent a car for a few days which wasn't fun. Martin was pretty pist with the supplier but hey what can you do in the end though i was happy i got the car running after 3 months waiting...
 
tmizer said:
Am I the only one that finds humor in this paradox of:

Modding a DSM, and
Bolt-on parts.

I mean, please, it's a DSM, not a carburated small block Chevy. Guess I'm just a little worn out from fabricating FMIC mounts, welding/drilling them, welding pipes, fixing leaks, grinding/welding motor mounts, clocking compressor housings (not T04b), CHRA's, install/re-install about 5 times, just to get clearance and a -10AN drain hose to fit... you know, that old (DSM bolt-on) thing ROFL

Great review 989GSX-WI...except for the part of assuming it'd bolt-on as easy as a 14b/16g. Please post any fixes to the late spool. Would love to hear how it turns out.

Well...I did a leak test today...and the only area with a major leak is under or around the throttle body. I sprayed a lot of soapy water around the TB, but I didn't see anything bubbling. So...I ordered a bunch of gaskets and stuff today... I plan to replace the TB gaskets, maybe the intake manifold gasket, pcv, and the biss screw & o-ring, ...while I'm at it...

I must admit...it's kind-of depressing finally having the bigger turbo installed...and I have no increase in power due to a boost leak... Well...looking on the bright side...at least I still have something to look forward too...LOL
 
98GSX-WI said:
I must admit...it's kind-of depressing finally having the bigger turbo installed...and I have no increase in power due to a boost leak... Well...looking on the bright side...at least I still have something to look forward too...LOL
hmmm, thats odd. I have a few boost leaks and I'm running extremely FAT, and still at 12 lbs on the v-trim, it pulls a $hit load harder than my old 14b did at 18 lbs. I just made my new leak tester, so as soon as I get off my a$$ and take my car down to my other garage where the compressor is, I'll get those leaks fixed. :thumb:
 
Am having knock problem right now and am not enjoying my car right now because of it. My car hates me :cry: oh well at least its giving me 31lb/min at 15psi :D just need to tune more with dsmlink :thumb:
 
99gst_racer said:
hmmm, thats odd. I have a few boost leaks and I'm running extremely FAT, and still at 12 lbs on the v-trim, it pulls a $hit load harder than my old 14b did at 18 lbs. I just made my new leak tester, so as soon as I get off my a$$ and take my car down to my other garage where the compressor is, I'll get those leaks fixed. :thumb:

I changed from a FP Big28 to the V-trim--so I already had quite a bit of power. Although the boost leak caused the Big28 to spool slower too, it still spooled by 3800 rpm. The boost leak on the V-trim causes full spool to occur at about 4200-4500 rpm...and doesn't feel really strong until about 5000-5500 rpm.

With the Big28, I wasn't sure at the time if I had a boost leak, or if my actuator was loose. I just didn't bother dealing with it at the time because I was planning on upgrading soon and the Big28 still spooled soon enough for my needs.

What I hadn't really considered until now after reading some more about boost leaks...is that the turbo could be being stressed by working much harder to push air up to the set psi...due to the leaks...I read where someone said that they thought they blew their turbo due to a large boost leak... Not sure if this is really true or not, but made me really think that as soon as I suspected a problem...I should of fixed it right away...

Also, one thing I've come to learn when it comes to modding...power is all relative...lots of power to one person...could be nowhere near enough for another.... ;)
 
My experiences:

I was able to clear all the fans and water pipes fine.
I did have to do a bit of custom grinding on the O2 housing to clear the wastegate arm.
Turbo spooled to 10 PSI at 3500 and 14 at 3800 RPM. I also have a IC pinhole leak.

Oil drain line problems like the rest.

Remaining major problem: Turbo to O2 gasket (made of soft gauze metal) blew out. Looking to replace it with a good ss gasket. Can't recommend this one.

I would recommend this upgrade for someone with a few tools and some time. So far, I am happy with the product and would purchase another due to cost, value, and the strength of the turbo after 3800 RPM.
 
Just thought that I would provide you all with an update...

It turns out that my most significant leak was the exhaust manifold. The two front bolts had backed themselves out a little and the front part of the gasket blew out. Therefore, my initial spooling problems appear to be due to loose bolts/leaky gasket. Dave from Bullseye was very good in helping me troubleshoot the problem. He responded to my e-mails promptly and called me at home at least twice until I correctly identified the problem.

Looking back, a somewhat humorous lesson is to never trust an exhaust shop to diagnose your problems (like Midas). I thought that I had a downpipe gasket leak so I took the car to midas to switch paper-like gasket with a metal one...they told me that it wasn't an exhaust leak but that the turbo seal was bad. HA! Exhaust Manifold vs. Turbo Seal...close...but no cigar. (I must admit that they really had me worried for a while until I talked with Dave...thought I may have to send turbo back).

Now that I've got a new strong steel exhaust manifold gasket...I get full boost 20-21psi under 4000 rpm.

Here is my first log that I did today. Note: I am using a Hahn SMIC...and it was about 50 deg F out when did the log.

Time -- RPM -- Timing -- Speed -Airflow - O2
1.12 -- 2608 -- 20.0 -- 32.0 -- 6.6 -- 0.94
2.24 -- 2892 -- 16.0 -- 36.0 -- 8.8 -- 0.94
3.37 -- 3208 -- 10.0 -- 42.0 -- 12.1 -- 0.98
4.51 -- 3564 -- 6.0 -- 44.0 -- 19.2 -- 0.98
5.64 -- 4076 -- 9.0 -- 51.0 -- 23.0 -- 0.98
6.76 -- 4620 -- 9.0 -- 55.0 -- 28.7 -- 0.98
7.9 -- 5076 -- 11.0 -- 63.0 -- 33.3 -- 0.98
9.04 -- 5556 -- 13.0 -- 72.0 -- 34.7 -- 0.98
10.17 -- 6112 -- 14.0 -- 76.0 -- 38.9 -- 0.98

When I hit around 6000 rpm I could see my knock gauge starting to increase so I let off before 7000 rpm. (Keydiver Chip - stock boost gauge = knock gauge) I'm not sure what to make of this log. I think that I'm going to get it dyno'd to find out where I'm at.
 
OK, I just got home and couldn't resist...

After shooting some pool, I was heading home and came across a new vette. Eventually we ended up side-by-side at a stop light--and at the perfect place--a three lane road with not another stop light for some time...

Neither of us launched, but I decided to take it to redline in 1st...and sure enough the vette decided to take chase. This looked like a brand new vette...and to tell you the truth...I'm not sure if it was a guy or an ugly woman driving it due to the tinted windows...but anyway...

I took the T04b to redline through 3rd gear (which is about 90mph) and there was the vette...the same car and a half behind me as when we took off...

This was the first test of the new turbo...and so far so good... I would have like to seen what the result would have been if we both would have launched... I really would like to know if the person in the vette was flooring it...but regardless...I stayed ahead for the duration...which was good enough for me.... :thumb:
 
v-trim installed here also, had to cut radiator fan support and oil drain was a pain but love the turbo. i cant tune for no knock on dsmlink above 14psi on the dejon super sidemount :notgood: so i guess i gotta get a frontmount :thumb:
 
My Bullseye return was too long, and I ended up taking the braided section out and replacing it with fuel hose.

I wish I would have known David was replacing them before I ripped mine all apart.

Eh, whatever. It works, I'm not going to cry over it.
 
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