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Removing Stock Ignition Module (ignitor)

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4sdair

20+ Year Contributor
31
0
Aug 27, 2002
Oregon
If you are no longer using the stock power transistor module to directly drive the coils is there anyway to remove it?

I have two of the MSD 6a ignitors.

I'm also running a Haltech.


Any body have a wiring diagram showing how to make this work?



Thanks.
 
Thats a really weird sounding setup. Why not a single DIS-2, instead of 2 MSD 6A? Anyhow, the stock ignitor also puts out a tach signal. So you need a way to generate the tach signal, which I would bet you can get directly from the Haltech. Other than that though, you SHOULD be able to remove the stock ignitor, depending on how you wired in the 6A.
 
I followed the wiring and the wires on the 3 prong connector that goes to the coils has been cut. It was cut on the male side and wired to the msd 6a.

The reason I'm trying to bypass the factory ignition module is:

1. It shouldn't be needed.
2. If the signal from the Haltech is going to the factory module first any changes I make in the Haltech for ignitor charging times gets altered.



Thanks.
 
Originally posted by 4sdair
I followed the wiring and the wires on the 3 prong connector that goes to the coils has been cut. It was cut on the male side and wired to the msd 6a.

The reason I'm trying to bypass the factory ignition module is:

1. It shouldn't be needed.
2. If the signal from the Haltech is going to the factory module first any changes I make in the Haltech for ignitor charging times gets altered.

I'm not sure what you are saying about the timing getting altered. The factory ignitor(or ignition module) does not affect timing or dwell at all. The ECU tells the ignitor when to start dwell, and when to fire, and the ignitor simply does what its told. All it is is a pair of high power transistors for driving the coils.

If you are worried about charging times, they are a moot point. You don't need a coil dwell or charging time with a CDI style box like an MSD. The MSD just ignores the part of the signal from the factory ignitor to start dwell, and then when the factory ignitor tells the MSD to fire, it fires.

However, you can't simply cut the factory ignitor out without adjusting your Haltech signal. The ignitor input signal is pretty much inverted from what the output is. So you would need to invert the Haltech outputs if you are feeding them straight into the MSD instead of sending them to the ignitor.

Brad
 
Bring back from the dead because I can't find any related threads yet. But I have an M&W Pro-12 but I'm thinking it's bad. I've deleted my PTU and want to send the box back for inspection (due to terrible voltage fluctuations in Ecmlink only when the M&W is plugged in), and use the stock coil setup for the time being. Problem is, there's a blue wire from the M&W that goes to the ecu for the tach signal. If I remove the box, where would I now get the tach signal from? Or would this still work on stock coils and no PTU? Any ideas anyone? Thanks!
 
How are you going to charge and fire the stock coils without a PTU?
Guessing I'm not? Not sure how that part of it works.

My plug on the harness was all falling apart. So unless someone had a plug end/pigtail for me to wire in, I guess I'm stuck for the moment.
 
Guessing I'm not? Not sure how that part of it works.

My plug on the harness was all falling apart. So unless someone had a plug end/pigtail for me to wire in, I guess I'm stuck for the moment.

Is the ptu plug the same as a 2G maf plug? If so I’ll go pull one from the junkyard. There’s a 2g Spyder at my local junkyard.
 
The PTU connector is the same as the 2G MAF connector but wired differently. Thankfully you can unpin the old and reinstall the wires/pins in the new.

What sort of coil setup are you running, was it a COP with the M&W Pro-12 or the original coil pack and plug wires? If I remember correctly you were running some 300m coil on plugs before.
 
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