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EGT gauge vs A/F gauge

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Eagle 5

20+ Year Contributor
380
3
Jan 26, 2003
Cincinnati, Ohio
Ok, i hear people talking about how one is better than the other and vice versa. my question is. Do you need just one of them? both? is one of them better than the other? is one easier to use?

also the A/F would be a digital readout not one of the blinky light ones

would it be good if you had both of them (i assume it would)
 
I personally would not get an A/F guage. Any guage that says "Air fuel " I out zero faith in no matter who makes it. I like EGT guages over all of those with the exception of wide band O2guages.

IMHO EGT guages are a much more valuable warning guage.
 
well the EGT I plan to at least get since I have a NT and im puttig a turbo kit on it, it will eb quite important for me on how hot it is getting. at least until i get aorund to rebuilding it. a/f i thought would help with tuning but i dont know
 
Two ways to look at it...

A Air/Fuel guage is best to see a loss of fuel before detonation, which can be a real tuning tool consideirng you will be using a AVCR for your fuel system regulator. YOu can stop accelarating and slow the hell down before it is too late, although sometime A/F isn't always accurate so when intense tuning comes in a..

EGT guage will help you see when your detonating in a certain cylinder, although it takes longer for a EGT guage to react compared to a A/F. The EGT will also inform you along use with a datalogger your reports of knock and tell you if your running to rich/lean.

The 420A is a great engine, and you should in my advice get both guages because you will need all the help you can get to make sure your tuning is exact. Too much boost and not enough fuel will lead to problems, and all the goodies will help you stay away from engine problems.
 
Um, wrong.

First of all, the AVC-R is a boost controller, so he will not be using it as a "fuel system regulator."

Second of all, how does an A/F gauge react faster than an EGT gauge?

In this scenario, where you do not have a knock sensor, you have several options. You can get an EGT gauge, an aftermarket knock sensing system (JS Safeguard) or a wideband O2. That list is probably in order of worst to best.

....Kyle T.
 
I run a 1200 bone A?F ratio sensor in my car. Hell I have over 3000 bones in the bottom end. I would get a FJO and a good not auto meter EGT. The EGT you can use for finding out knock which is given by two things one being Air to fuel ratio. If that is right via the FJO wide band then you have a timing problem. You will need to back the timing down 2 to 3 degrees at a time untill the EGT do not SHOOT UP!!! Shooting up EGT is knock or leaning out which will also cause knock. If Air to fuel ratio is dead on then EGT shooting up is tooooo much timing.

Luke
LILGSX 96
6 bolt haltech 272 272 and more stuff...
 
Originally posted by LILGSX96
I run a 1200 bone A?F ratio sensor in my car. Hell I have over 3000 bones in the bottom end. I would get a FJO and a good not auto meter EGT. The EGT you can use for finding out knock which is given by two things one being Air to fuel ratio. If that is right via the FJO wide band then you have a timing problem. You will need to back the timing down 2 to 3 degrees at a time untill the EGT do not SHOOT UP!!! Shooting up EGT is knock or leaning out which will also cause knock. If Air to fuel ratio is dead on then EGT shooting up is tooooo much timing.

Luke
LILGSX 96
6 bolt haltech 272 272 and more stuff...

Speak a da English...
 
I had an air fuel guage by auto meter and it said i was running rich all the time i scrapped it bought a greddy egt guage and it was right were it should be its worth the 150+ bucks.
 
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