My cAR is SLOW

[Marcus]

My GVR4 has a 50trim L2 turbo, FMIC, 660denso, SAFC, denso190 rewired, blah ha MAS, my problem is that the car runs terrible, i had a old talon with a 14b that runs the doors off mine.
I've been guessing what could be wrong with my car,
1. me tuning
2. base timing
3. fuel pressure,
Any suggestions that someone could make would be nice. I should be busting off mid 7's in the 1/8 not 9.3's @76mph. I should at least be putting down 15mph more trap speeds. Am I missing something simple?

 

[brads]

Originally posted by Marcus
Am I missing something simple?

Tuning ability

No idea what you are missing, you dont give enough info to go on. Do you have a logging device of some sort? If you dont, then that is what you are missing. Use that to figure out how your O2 voltage, timing, and knocksum look. What boost, what gas?

Brad

 

[Marcus]

I've got a pocketlogger, 20psi and 93octane, my knock counts stay fairly low, 1-2 range until 6k, then all hell breaks loose and I get 22counts from there on out. My hi settings on my afc are 10across the board and doubt low settings matter, but they are 23 across the board. My throttle point is 25-75. Any other questions

 

[brads]

So your timing is good until 6000, then drops off quickly? What does it drop to? How do your O2 voltages look? How does your airflow look?

Brad

Originally posted by Marcus
I've got a pocketlogger, 20psi and 93octane, my knock counts stay fairly low, 1-2 range until 6k, then all hell breaks loose and I get 22counts from there on out. My hi settings on my afc are 10across the board and doubt low settings matter, but they are 23 across the board. My throttle point is 25-75. Any other questions

 

[allwheelTSI]

maybe try to richen up the topend some more,seems you are running lean up high and thats causing knock wich is retarding the timing. do you have an EGT gauge?

 

[Tallen]

Originally posted by Marcus
I've got a pocketlogger, 20psi and 93octane, my knock counts stay fairly low, 1-2 range until 6k, then all hell breaks loose and I get 22counts from there on out. My hi settings on my afc are 10across the board and doubt low settings matter, but they are 23 across the board. My throttle point is 25-75. Any other questions

richen up mid and see what happens. prolly richen the setting about 1000 below 6000 rpm and then richen everything from there on. i know for sure that a lean MID can result in a knocky WOT.

 

[DELTA_Rotary]

Ive ridden in his car and I dont think the problem has so much to do with his tuning as some other big problem. His car should be making serious power. Hes missing around 90-100whp somewhere. Ive seen cars with very minor mods pull off the times he has. His fuel maps arent terrible. Hes got some knock over 6k but there is still something really wrong. 19psi on that L2 should be hauling ass.

 

[brads]

Thats why I was asking about airflow and O2s. That might help poinpoint if he has a problem with an intake or boost leak. And of course, if its that much slower than he expects, he might want to do a compression check.

Also, are the numbers he mentions on the AFC, positive or negative? I would assume and hope negative, but he didnt put a - sign in front of them. That would make a big difference if they werent.

Brad

Originally posted by DELTA_Rotary
Ive ridden in his car and I dont think the problem has so much to do with his tuning as some other big problem. His car should be making serious power. Hes missing around 90-100whp somewhere. Ive seen cars with very minor mods pull off the times he has. His fuel maps arent terrible. Hes got some knock over 6k but there is still something really wrong. 19psi on that L2 should be hauling ass.

 

[Marcus]

My settings are negative on my afc, I don't think I have a boost leak. My L2 is internally gated and the gate is set a 15psi, which is what I see when I remove the MBC. I know this isn't the best way to check for a leak, but the easiest. When you mention airflow, are you looking for karmen readings? IF so I'm reading 2100Hz. Now to the o2, are you looking for volts, or are you wanting to make sure that's it's cycling properly. I'll have to check for the volts, I do know that's it's cycling though. Anything else I can provide I will. Tell me what to log and I'll do so and post my log.
Marcus

 

[kpt4321]

That's not even close to checking for boost leaks, My 14b will still give me 17 psi, if I have HUGE boost leaks. You HAVE to pressurize the intake tract.

Second of all, 2100 Hz is not nearly as much airflow as you should be pulling, but it is WAY more than you need to run 80+ mph in the 8th.

My car, pulling 1800-1900 Hz on a 14b, and 450's, does 80-85 in the 1/8.

You have some big problems. First, PRESSURE TEST the intake. The pressure should bleed down VERY slowly, with little to no audiable noise from anywhere.

Then, check everything else. Check compression, check base timing, etc.

Then, learn to tune properly. It shouldn't knock anywhere. You should be running 10 mph faster with that turbo, at least.

 

[Marcus]

Kyle,
MY compression is 180 all four due to a valve job, I just reset my base timing to 5BTDC and I am hunting for the best AFPR for the money. Along with those things I plan on doing the intake as you suggested to let me know if all is good. I replaced my ECU and with that I was able to pull my fuel back to where is should be. I think my ECU was causing problems. Thanks for the pointers
Marcus

 

[brads]

No, its not the proper way to test for boost leaks. BUT, like I said, it might be an indicator for one. Going very rich on the O2s at WOT, higher than expected airflow for the boost level, and having to add fuel at idle via the ECUs fuel trims are all indicators of a leak in the intake tract after the compressor. Going very lean on the O2s at WOT(probably resulting in knock), funky fuel trims, and lower than expected airflow amounts are all indicators of having a leak between the compressor and MAF. In this case, he needs to also look at the O2 voltages. But he has to take the readings with a grain of salt, as the timing retard from knock will heat up the exhaust, and lower the readings. He needs to look and see if he is pig rich in the areas where he has no knock, or if he is lean, or what is going on there. The factory O2 sensor isnt horribly accurate, but if you know where to look, you can use it to get a rough idea of what you need to do for fuel.
You are right though, pressurizing the intake tract will find the leaks much better, using the sensors to look for them will just tell you if you have some huge ones. I found a few small ones in my intake when I pressure tested it, that didnt really show up when I was trying to tune the car.

Brad

Originally posted by kpt4321
That's not even close to checking for boost leaks, My 14b will still give me 17 psi, if I have HUGE boost leaks. You HAVE to pressurize the intake tract.