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07-15-2012, 12:33 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Huntington, West Virginia
Registered: Apr 2012
Reputation:
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rough start up.
recently my 95 gst has been taking two or three cranks to get it to start. after it finally firing up it runs rough, i have to let it sit and warm up it runs fine. if you press on the throttle before letting it run for a minute it kills the rmp's then revs up. almost all of my ignition parts are brand new. new coil pack the other one is fine, brand new plugs and plug wires, brand new ignition control mod. ive even done a boost leak test and fixed all my boost leaks still does it. could it be my maff ?
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07-17-2012, 12:03 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Huntington, West Virginia
Registered: Apr 2012
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Sure have
so ive come up with some thoughts, just wanted to see what you guys think. is it possible that one of my o2 sensor's have gone bad? i had a talon with a bad o2 and you had to help it start and it would die a few times but it would run after being cranked a few time. to me it sounds exactly like the problem im having with my gst.
Last edited by Gst to the max; 07-17-2012 at 09:07 PM.
Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period
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07-20-2012, 04:22 AM
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#6 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Morristown, Tennessee
Registered: Sep 2004
Reputation:
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If you have a bad O2 sensor, then you're going to run very very rich all of the time ; and you should have a CEL as well. If this were a standalone, I'd say it's a WUE issue. Just out of curiosity, do you know what the ECU thinks the temperature is?
____________________________
Rob
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07-20-2012, 04:26 AM
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#7 (permalink)
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Supporting Member

Car: 89 Mirage 63T swap
From: Federal Way, Washington
Registered: Nov 2011
Reputation:
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^ Coolant temp sensor can cause this issue.
____________________________
Corey
89 Mirage 63T swap
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07-20-2012, 05:43 AM
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#8 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Wilmington, North Carolina
Registered: Dec 2006
Reputation:
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I would lean more towards coolant temp sensor also. The frt O2 isn't really used during open loop when the car is warming up.
If your airflow readings are wrong then it will act up in open loop also. Is your BOV recirculated? If not it could be leaking and leaning it out during warmup. A leak after the MAF will lean it out also. The ECU has a warmup enrichment and leaks undue the process and it has trouble idling til it's warm.
I have also had a leaking FIAV cause warmup idle issues.
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07-20-2012, 03:43 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Huntington, West Virginia
Registered: Apr 2012
Reputation:
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it is a coolant temp sensor thanks for all the input, i fought with this problem for about three weeks. im on vacation at the moment and ive just been reading the forum. i finally found a thread about this problem and it explained mine to the T. also about the o2 your right i was just trying to throw out all possible things that could be wrong. since i had a previous car do this do to a bad o2. but again thanks for all the input and ill get back on and tell everyone if it fixed or not HAPPY BOOSTING
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07-20-2012, 09:01 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: hudson, New Hampshire
Registered: May 2009
Reputation:
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When you try the coolant temp sensor give us an update, I am having similar issues as well
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08-05-2012, 02:56 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Huntington, West Virginia
Registered: Apr 2012
Reputation:
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hey everyone completely sorry for the late reply. the coolant temp did fix the car. when i went to replace it i discovered that the wires wasnt even in the plug. so i guess someone cut them or they were just that old. i had to rewire a new plug and went ahead and put in a new sensor.
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08-05-2012, 03:19 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Omaha, Nebraska
Registered: Nov 2007
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I was ust gonna say no one has mentioned,plugs, wires, fuel filteretc... general maintenance items that need replaced regularly
____________________________
Haltech E6X, Holset H1-3558x, AWD swap
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