AEM A few AEM EMS problems in my 2g

[dsm's can fly]

These issues have completely stumped me now, and i have searched for these. I cannot not find the answers anywhere. thank you in advance for the help.


1. The factory speedometer on the dash does not work with the aem

2. The tachometer does not work properly (reads all over the place), however works fine in the AEM. i have already tried adjusting the Tacho settings in the AEM.

3. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to reprogram my innovative wide band for a second 0-5volt wide band out put. the default configuration is one wide band 0-5 and, a second 0-1 narrow band. i need the second wide band to do o2 feed back to the ecu.

 

[eclipsegsx1736]

What's the part number/serial number of the EMS on your car? The correct one for a 2g DSM is 30-1310 (Series I) or 30-6310 (Series II).

The factory speedo signal on 2g's comes from the hall sensor on the transmission, which splits off and goes to the speedo on the dash and to the ECU/EMS. The only way the EMS could have any effect on the speedo was if it was being pulled down to ground (either shorted out or hooked to the wrong input on the EMS, hence why I ask about the exact EMS that you have).

Also, the signal for the stock tach does NOT come from the EMS on our cars, so adjusting the Tacho settings in the EMS will not make any difference. The signal actually comes from the white wire on the factory ignitor and goes directly to the tach. The EMS gets its tach signal from the crank sensor, so it's completely unrelated. The only way the tach could be "jumping" around was if the tach itself was broken (or associated wiring) or if the EMS is not sending out consistent spark events to the igniter, in which case the engine would run roughly and misfire. This is why when using an ignition-cut rev limiter (stock ECU/DSMLink does fuel-cut limiter) will cause the stock tach to go nuts, since the EMS is cutting ignition to limit RPM, hence cutting the tach's RPM signal as well. To avoid this, you can actually tap into the crank signal (assuming you're still using the factory crank trigger disc) and jump the crank signal to the white wire that comes out of the igniter and goes to the stock tach, and leave the wire coming out of the igniter disconnected.

Why can't you use the main 0-5 output from your Innovate gauge? The EMS only needs one 0-5v output for both monitoring in the software and for O2 feedback.

 

[dsm's can fly]

What's the part number/serial number of the EMS on your car? The correct one for a 2g DSM is 30-1310 (Series I) or 30-6310 (Series II).

The factory speedo signal on 2g's comes from the hall sensor on the transmission, which splits off and goes to the speedo on the dash and to the ECU/EMS. The only way the EMS could have any effect on the speedo was if it was being pulled down to ground (either shorted out or hooked to the wrong input on the EMS, hence why I ask about the exact EMS that you have).

Also, the signal for the stock tach does NOT come from the EMS on our cars, so adjusting the Tacho settings in the EMS will not make any difference. The signal actually comes from the white wire on the factory ignitor and goes directly to the tach. The EMS gets its tach signal from the crank sensor, so it's completely unrelated. The only way the tach could be "jumping" around was if the tach itself was broken (or associated wiring) or if the EMS is not sending out consistent spark events to the igniter, in which case the engine would run roughly and misfire. This is why when using an ignition-cut rev limiter (stock ECU/DSMLink does fuel-cut limiter) will cause the stock tach to go nuts, since the EMS is cutting ignition to limit RPM, hence cutting the tach's RPM signal as well. To avoid this, you can actually tap into the crank signal (assuming you're still using the factory crank trigger disc) and jump the crank signal to the white wire that comes out of the igniter and goes to the stock tach, and leave the wire coming out of the igniter disconnected.

Why can't you use the main 0-5 output from your Innovate gauge? The EMS only needs one 0-5v output for both monitoring in the software and for O2 feedback.

First, thank you for actually trying to help. I was starting to wonder if any one could.

1. I do have the correct aem ems it is a series 1 box for 95-99

2. The wiring for the speed sensor seems fine i have traced it back and have not found any issues.(remember with the factory ecu speedo works fine)

3. The tach works on factory ecu (not broken tach). It does change when i mess with the tacho settings, just still not right.

4. I have no missfire issues at all car runs great

5. I do have stock cam trigger disk

6. If i read right it sounds like according to you i can: cut the white wire in the ignitor and run a wire that splices the cam signal wire into the cut end wire of the ignitor. In other words run jumper wire from CAS (spliced) to the ignitor (cut) and leave the white wire on the harness side not connected?

I have no problem trying this just want to confirm first

 

[eclipsegsx1736]

First, thank you for actually trying to help. I was starting to wonder if any one could.

1. I do have the correct aem ems it is a series 1 box for 95-99

2. The wiring for the speed sensor seems fine i have traced it back and have not found any issues.(remember with the factory ecu speedo works fine)

3. The tach works on factory ecu (not broken tach). It does change when i mess with the tacho settings, just still not right.

4. I have no missfire issues at all car runs great

5. I do have stock cam trigger disk

6. If i read right it sounds like according to you i can: cut the white wire in the ignitor and run a wire that splices the cam signal wire into the cut end wire of the ignitor. In other words run jumper wire from CAS (spliced) to the ignitor (cut) and leave the white wire on the harness side not connected?

I have no problem trying this just want to confirm first

You'd be amazed how many people don't have the "correct" EMS for their vehicle, as they might have bought the vehicle used and it came with the EMS already installed. What's the part number?

Once again, I'd like to confirm what EMS you actually have. If you have a 1310 EMS and you still have this issue, remove pin 86 from the EMS and see if the speedometer now works. If it does, connect that wire to pin 90 (normally used for MAF input, which I'm assuming you've long since eliminated). Then, go into AEMPro and connect to the EMS. Hit Ctrl+O to bring up the full Options list and find "VSS Input". Set this to "Spare Speed" and you should be good to go. The EMS will still read vehicle speed and the stock speedo should still work.

It shouldn't change when you mess with the tach settings. The stock tach is NOT wired to the EMS/ECU unless you've changed the wiring yourself or a previous owner did. The signal comes from the igniter only.

You'll want to hook the CRANK signal (not cam) which, if you have a 6 bolt engine, also comes from the CAS. This is a blue wire w/white stripe at the ECU (pin 89). That wire will need to be tapped into and connected to the white wire that comes out of the igniter and goes into the wiring harness. Leave the igniter side of the white wire disconnected.

 

[dsm's can fly]

You'd be amazed how many people don't have the "correct" EMS for their vehicle, as they might have bought the vehicle used and it came with the EMS already installed. What's the part number?

Once again, I'd like to confirm what EMS you actually have. If you have a 1310 EMS and you still have this issue, remove pin 86 from the EMS and see if the speedometer now works. If it does, connect that wire to pin 90 (normally used for MAF input, which I'm assuming you've long since eliminated). Then, go into AEMPro and connect to the EMS. Hit Ctrl+O to bring up the full Options list and find "VSS Input". Set this to "Spare Speed" and you should be good to go. The EMS will still read vehicle speed and the stock speedo should still work.

1. I do have the 1310 box.
2. I tried disconnecting the wire on pin 86 and it did not fix the speedo.
3. Just for grin's i went ahead an switched it and changed to spare speed still did not work also very sad.



It shouldn't change when you mess with the tach settings. The stock tach is NOT wired to the EMS/ECU unless you've changed the wiring yourself or a previous owner did. The signal comes from the igniter only.

You'll want to hook the CRANK signal (not cam) which, if you have a 6 bolt engine, also comes from the CAS. This is a blue wire w/white stripe at the ECU (pin 89). That wire will need to be tapped into and connected to the white wire that comes out of the igniter and goes into the wiring harness. Leave the igniter side of the white wire disconnected.

1. When i connected the jumper wire from the ecu on the CAS signal wire (blue w/ white stripe) to the white wire on the ignitor the ecu would turn on and off while i tried to start the car.

2. The tach now works all that needed to be done is the white wire cut and now my tach sees proper signal as well as the ecu.

I appreciate the help i still dont know what is going on with the speedometer though. any more thoughts??

One other question if you know. Can i tap into the the wide band output and split it between my gauge and the ecu??