Injectors 2 & 3 not firing.

[putinexim]

What sensors does the ECU pull from to compute when to send signal to fire an injector? I know that some things need to be replaced. I do not know if the known bad parts actually would/could be the sole culprit here.

Background: 2.4 7bolt bored to 2.5, DSMLink, 650cc, H1E, 1G Head, Green top CAS (self wired according to RRE), AEM wideband taped into rear 02 sensor, all other info in my opinion is arbitrary.


Problem: My problem is that I am not getting signal from my ECU on injectors 2 & 3. I have tested this at the wires, I am not getting signal. I am however getting power from the resister box to the injectors.

Tested: I have swapped injectors with 1&4 and the injectors are known to be good. I have placed a known good ECU into my car and does the same thing. My ECU in another car works perfectly fine. I have disconnected the injector and the wire from the ECU and then put voltage across it and it comes across fine. I wired up another CAS and completely re did the wiring just in case something was messed up. I replaced the power transistor as it was bad (dash tach now works ). Coils appear to be functioning fine, replaced with known good packs and same results.

Not Tested: I have not tested the resistance of the good wires in comparison with the bad wires as I do not have a multimeter with long enough leads to test it.

Odd things: Not getting anything for LTFTs

Known Bad: Front 02 sensor is putting out LOW voltages, needs to be replaced.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Damn you got pretty much everything covered. I'd try:

-Injector box (name?) (white cloth wireloom leading to silver box mounted to firewall)
-Recheck resistance across 2&3 1&4 on coilpack, should be ~13k ohms
-swap your injector wires temporarily with one another or pull them out and see if they arc against the valvecover when the car is running
-check wiring to resistor and coil pack

 

[putinexim]

Damn you got pretty much everything covered. I'd try:

-Injector box (name?) (white cloth wireloom leading to silver box mounted to firewall)
-Recheck resistance across 2&3 1&4 on coilpack, should be ~13k ohms
-swap your injector wires temporarily with one another or pull them out and see if they arc against the valvecover when the car is running
-check wiring to resistor and coil pack

1. Injector box (Resistor Box) - replaced with known good, same result. Placed mine on good car and it ran fine.
2. Replaced coil with known good, same results
3. No Arching - Just no voltage from wiring coming from ECU
4. Wiring from what resistor to the coil pack.


New Development:

1. I replaced my battery as I was seeing a maximum of like 11v with the car running. Without it running I was only getting 7.4v. I replaced the battery and now #3 injector is running but #2 still is not. I do not know if this was coincidental or not.
2. Measured the voltage coming from the ECU to the injectors and nothing is coming out for injector #2. I tested this by having the injector unplugged to make sure that no voltage was comming back through the injector. When testing the output of the other injectors when the car is running and plugged in I get approximately 13.5v. When the car is running and the injector is unlugged I get approximately 9v. This is the same on all injectors except for #2.

 

[putinexim]

Any one?

 

[phillabaum03]

I had the exact same problem, then I got a new crank sensor and the thing fired up. I had no clue the crank sensor had to do with injector pulse? but it does. I gues you already did the 1g CAS so delete my idea. sucks man

 

[putinexim]

I had the exact same problem, then I got a new crank sensor and the thing fired up. I had no clue the crank sensor had to do with injector pulse? but it does. I gues you already did the 1g CAS so delete my idea. sucks man

Yeah I replaced it once and even completely redid the wiring. I am thinking of maybe getting another one just incase my replacement was bad. I guess I should also trace the wires that go to the ECU to make sure that there is no short. I know that if I disconnect one of the signal wires it dies however I guess that doesn't mean that I couldn't have a short.

 

[putinexim]

I also have this dummy light. Anyone know what it is? I am talking about the dummy light and not the door ajar light BTW.

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/KpWvH6fsqGmicx8weHaG0Q"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/danielsdavidr/SMvpPgTtttI/AAAAAAAAAEs/gZ2XXhVOhu8/s800/What%20light%20is%20this.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/danielsdavidr/WhatLightIsThis">What Light is this?</a></td></tr></table>

 

[steve]

1. Injector box (Resistor Box) - replaced with known good, same result. Placed mine on good car and it ran fine.

2. Measured the voltage coming from the ECU to the injectors and nothing is coming out for injector #2. I tested this by having the injector unplugged to make sure that no voltage was comming back through the injector. When testing the output of the other injectors when the car is running and plugged in I get approximately 13.5v. When the car is running and the injector is unlugged I get approximately 9v. This is the same on all injectors except for #2.

You should see battery voltage at the injector connector on the pin from the injector resistor. For injector 2 that would be the green w/black wire to pin 1. It comes from pin 4 on the injector resistor pack.

You should measure about 3 ohms across the two pins of the injector itself with the connector off.

You should also see battery voltage at each of the ECU pins for the injectors with the key on, the car not running, and all the connectors on.

All the timing information comes from the CAS (crank and cam sensors on 2G's)