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Old 01-12-2008, 07:44 PM   #1 (permalink)
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1G-specific throwing codes after intake install

I had a horrible vacuum leak coming from my intake manifold, so i replaced the intake. after replacing the intake it took quite a few cranks to get it started, and when it finally kicked over it had a cel. i threw a logger on it and it came up with fuel pump(42) and intake air temp sensor. what could i have done to all of a sudden trigger these? i have a stock fuel pump, 2g mass, 450s, and afc set at 25% in low throttle to comp for the mass air. any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Old 01-12-2008, 10:10 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97GSXmitsy View Post
I had a horrible vacuum leak coming from my intake manifold, so i replaced the intake. after replacing the intake it took quite a few cranks to get it started, and when it finally kicked over it had a cel. i threw a logger on it and it came up with fuel pump(42) and intake air temp sensor. what could i have done to all of a sudden trigger these? i have a stock fuel pump, 2g mass, 450s, and afc set at 25% in low throttle to comp for the mass air. any suggestions would be appreciated.
The 42 code is cause by the ECU not seeing 12v on pin 13 when it turns the fuel pump on.
Code 13 could be a bunch of things including the IAT sensor going bad. How long have you been running the 2G MAF? Your running a +25% correction on the SAFC, right?
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Old 01-13-2008, 06:58 PM   #3 (permalink)
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the mass air has been on the car for months now. ran fine before the intake manifold swap. if need be ill have to find a new mass air. now every time i try to start the car it wont start. I mean it ran and started fine before i swapped intakes, it just idled bad cause of the vacuum leak. now its a bitch to start. and yea the afc is 25% to comp for the maf. i have a set of 550cc injectors laying around im probally going to throw them in to see if it helps at all. am i going to need to have to rewire the stock pump?
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Old 01-13-2008, 07:21 PM   #4 (permalink)
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You shouldn't have to do anything else.

So rather than throw more stuff at it why not resolve these issues so you not trying to debug the old problem and whatever you might introduce changing the injectors. As long as your not pushing more air than before by turning up the boost then if the fuel pump was fine before it's fine now. Rewiring it isn't a bad idea but it's not the cause of your current problems.

Clear your codes and see if they come back.

Take a log of the IAT and see if it's dead?
Check out all the sensor values before you start cranking the engine and see if they make sense.
Perhaps you have other issues but they aren't triggering error codes yet that are making the car hard to start.

Did you pressure test the intake after you changed the manifold?
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Old 01-13-2008, 07:25 PM   #5 (permalink)
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no i did not pressure test it. to be honest with you i could care less about the check engine light. ill just pull the bulb. i just dont know why the car wont start now. would the ait sensor keep it from starting if it were dead?
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Old 01-13-2008, 07:57 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Good luck.

If the CEL is not important to you then I'm wasting my time.
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Old 01-13-2008, 09:04 PM   #7 (permalink)
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im being sarcastic about the light. im just not concerned about it at the moment because it is not whats keeping the car from running. I knew the car had a boost/vacuum leak. so i got a different intake manifold for it and replaced it. When i drove the car to the place where i was working on the car, it started up and drove fine. i then replaced the intake, and started the car. it took about five or six trys to start it and when it finallly started it idled real high and the cel was on. like i said when i scanned it it came up with two codes that had absolutely nothing to do with the replacing of the intake manifold. fuel pump and ait sensor. I just went out side about 10mins ago to play with it some more. it would fire up for like 4-5 secs then shut off. then it would not start at all. so i popped the hood and backed the idle screw out about 2.5 turns then it finally started to run. it idled high as hell but it idled. when i would rev the throttle, it would try to kill the car, and when i let off of the gas it would idle again. i've worked on a car before with a very similar problem. it had a massive vacuum leak. (missing egr block off.) so i figured it was a vacuum leak again but i can not see anything out of place. and for the car to behave like this it would have to be a massive leak. not just a vacuum line undone. so if you have any other suggestions i would greatly appreciate it.
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