*How to Tune with your Wideband*

[Boost95]

I didn't see a tech article listed for tuning with your WideBand so I was hoping to get one made up. Possibly someone with more knowledge then me can post some insight. Im running the AEM UEGO, logger,and SAFC. I am new to the wideband and Im hoping to get a nice tune before race season starts.

Thanks in Advance!

 

[1stGenRocks]

id like to see a tech article about this too. im running a vpc, safc2, 550's and would be using a borrowded lm1 wideband so i need to get the besat tune in the quickest time since im not driving with it every day.

 

[Boost95]

C'Mon, I know alot of you are running the UEGO. Im only looking for some of your tips and techniques for tuning with it

 

[dnhieu]

sorry i cant show you guys how to tune with a wide band but these videos helped me alot in understanding it http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/resources/lm101.php.

 

[daren_p]

I don't think there's any real secrets on what to do & if there is, then I don't know them but heres the general idea, or atleast what I do. Im running the plx-m300 which has a 5v output so I log this on my dsmlink. I do a 3rd gear wot pull and look at my logged air/fuel ratio vs rpm. You choose the target ratio your looking for, I tune for 11 to 1 and run sunoco ultra 94 (I think thats abit on the safe side but this is where I prefer to be) and then with each rpm based slider add or subtract fuel at the rpms that its needed to you end up with a nice steady air/fuel ratio through the full pull. I then do some pulls in the other gears to make sure the ratio still looks good, adding or subtracting fuel if need be. After that I do a few logs running throught the gears to make sure everything still looks good. I usually have it abit richer in the 4500-5500 rpm range as this is where your rpms drop when you shift and because of cylinder pressure this is the area it is most likely to knock. Don't know how much help that is but thats what I do, if there are some more advanced tunners that have some input I'd be happy to hear it as well

 

[dnhieu]

good info. im about to install my zetronix wide band this weekend. how much power did you unleash after getting that thing tuned?

 

[daren_p]

good info. im about to install my zetronix wide band this weekend. how much power did you unleash after getting that thing tuned?

Thats hard to say as I didn't do any before/after dyno time. I could defently tell the car had more power, it pulled alot nicer, espically in the top end. I was actually surprised, I started to tune the car without a wideband, just using the estimated air/fuel ratio in Dsmlink & their guidelines in the tunning manual to get you close to the air/fuel ratio you want. When I did get the wideband my tune was pretty dame close to where I wanted it to be. Just another one of the great benefits of Dsmlink

 

[93turbo16]

good info. im about to install my zetronix wide band this weekend. how much power did you unleash after getting that thing tuned?

Tuning can gain you a good bit of power if you are running terribly off. But other wise just cleaning up your AFR will make for a more responsive car. I think tuning to anywhere in the 11.5-11.8 range will do nicely on these cars. That is what I did my father's car to and it became another car going from mid 10s to the upper 11s.

This is my first post on here. But I tune mostly hondas and I am starting to tune more DSMs. So thought I should join up.

The zeitronix kit is a very nice one to start with too. It has a great logging software that makes tuning go a little smoother if you don't have any other type of logging.

 

[RavenX]

Tuning with the wideband is simple and it doesn't take much to figure it out. Make sure before you go all out and tune that you have Zero Boost leaks that is very important. Once you start doing pulls you want to be at 10.5-11.0:1 on pump gas. You generally want to be a little rich for pump gas. Mixed or Race Gas you can be at 11.2-11.8:1. Since you have a afc and logger you will be watching knock through timing so adjust accordindly through that. Good luck.

 

[Xplicit93AWD]

I dont mean to steal th thread but I have a question. I want to tune my car I have a afc 1/vpc setup no logger do you need a logger to tune with a wideband ? Or can I just get the readings from the wide band and tune for a 11:1 on pump gas ?

 

[Boost95]

You wont "need" a logger. But it is something everyone should have. Its not like they are expensive you can get a setup for a little over $50!

 

[Xplicit93AWD]

You wont "need" a logger. But it is something everyone should have. Its not like they are expensive you can get a setup for a little over $50!

Really there that cheap.. would you know where I can pick one up at I wanna learn tune my car and I would like to get everything needed to accomplish that.

 

[Boost95]

I got a Palm M125 off eBay for $35. I bought a logger cable off eBay for $10 and then I bought the null cable for about $10. Just look thru eBay.

 

[daren_p]

I dont mean to steal th thread but I have a question. I want to tune my car I have a afc 1/vpc setup no logger do you need a logger to tune with a wideband ? Or can I just get the readings from the wide band and tune for a 11:1 on pump gas ?

It is a very good idea to still have a logger. Adjusting with just a wideband should be fine in most cases but there is always a chance that you could have the correct air/fuel ratio but for some other reason the car is knocking, which you wont know without a logger. For the 1g's they can be had for very cheep. You can easily get a cheep palm for $40 on Ebay, you can make your own cable or buy one for less then $20, then there are a couple different versions of free software (freeware) that you can download off the internet. Look at it this way, a logger setup is alot cheeper then a motor

 

[Xplicit93AWD]

Ok thanks for all your help I will be looking for a logger on ebay if anyone happens to come across one can you post where u found it at here and I am usually on the board anyway so i will check it out thanks.

 

[TajMan]

I had the AEM wideband, SAFCII, and pocketlogger on my '92 Stealth R/T TT.

I never really got tuned better though because I couldn't get my wideband loggable on my datalogger, and when I finally did I ran into other problems and now have to sell that car, already sold off those mods. Anyway you just want to be able to log the thing to tune with it. Having a gauge on the A-pillar might help you get a general tune, but beyond that gotta log.

 

[LRS95TSI]

i hate to jump in here outta no where, but i am having probs with my wbo2.
when i did searches a while back, i was informed that when haveing an o2 dump, your wideband sensor would not be affected therefore making your afr readings almost exact. unfortunately when i reach full boost and the wastegate opens, my afr goes to like 20. i know this is wrong because i richened up the car alot becuz i knew i wanted to start tuning from scratch. i'm really confused and if i cannot get this wbo2 reading fixed i will have to get rid of the o2 dump, which is not in the cards, becuz i love the sound and what it does for me, and i've only it it on for a couple of weeks. sorry for hijacking the thread but i gotta be able to see what the car is doin at full boost

 

[dsm-onster]

I don't think there's any real secrets on what to do & if there is, then I don't know them but heres the general idea, or atleast what I do. Im running the plx-m300 which has a 5v output so I log this on my dsmlink. I do a 3rd gear wot pull and look at my logged air/fuel ratio vs rpm. You choose the target ratio your looking for, I tune for 11 to 1 and run sunoco ultra 94 (I think thats abit on the safe side but this is where I prefer to be) and then with each rpm based slider add or subtract fuel at the rpms that its needed to you end up with a nice steady air/fuel ratio through the full pull. I then do some pulls in the other gears to make sure the ratio still looks good, adding or subtracting fuel if need be. After that I do a few logs running throught the gears to make sure everything still looks good. I usually have it abit richer in the 4500-5500 rpm range as this is where your rpms drop when you shift and because of cylinder pressure this is the area it is most likely to knock. Don't know how much help that is but thats what I do, if there are some more advanced tunners that have some input I'd be happy to hear it as well

Pretty much dead on for the way I do it. This lets me know that we're at least on the right path . I shoot for a certain air/fuel ratio. Then I go to boost and raise to a target boost. After this, I advance timing to get real power from my tuning. Leaning out your mixture gives you decent power and can increase your spool. But timing advance does quite a bit more w/ respect to horsepower gain. As long as you're not runing under 10:1 then I say your at least ok. and should be tuning other aspects of your setup... When nothing else is left, of course, go back and see if you can lean her out a bit to grab a few more horsepower.

 

[1990EclipseGSX]

Pretty much dead on for the way I do it. This lets me know that we're at least on the right path . I shoot for a certain air/fuel ratio. Then I go to boost and raise to a target boost. After this, I advance timing to get real power from my tuning. Leaning out your mixture gives you decent power and can increase your spool. But timing advance does quite a bit more w/ respect to horsepower gain. As long as you're not runing under 10:1 then I say your at least ok. and should be tuning other aspects of your setup... When nothing else is left, of course, go back and see if you can lean her out a bit to grab a few more horsepower.

I also find there is way more power to be found in timing advance and boost than there is in lean AFR's, especially on pump gas. Wideband's are great for achieving stable AFR's and tuning out any spikes and dips, but I don't think the real power on pump gas comes from boost and timing, not from leaning out the AFR.. I found I just knocked like crazy when trying to run decent timing advance and boost levels with lean AFR's on pump gas.

 

[dsm-onster]

I also find there is way more power to be found in timing advance and boost than there is in lean AFR's, especially on pump gas. Wideband's are great for achieving stable AFR's and tuning out any spikes and dips, but I don't think the real power on pump gas comes from boost and timing, not from leaning out the AFR.. I found I just knocked like crazy when trying to run decent timing advance and boost levels with lean AFR's on pump gas.

Yup. That's becasue the more gs you inject the more you wash down the combustion chamber and cool it. Running rich is like expensive water injection

 

[2deep]

Pretty much dead on for the way I do it. I shoot for a certain air/fuel ratio. Then I go to boost and raise to a target boost.

This won't work. If you are setting your A:F first, and then raising your boost, you are adding more air thus changing your A:F.

The proper way to do it would be to first lower your timing (to keep things safe) and then set boost. Once you have the boost where you want it, you then tune for your target A:F. Once you have the desired A:F, you can then add timing to make power.

 

[1990EclipseGSX]

This won't work. If you are setting your A:F first, and then raising your boost, you are adding more air thus changing your A:F.

And why won't this work? The MAF will read the additional airflow, and therefore add additional fuel. AFR should remain the same, assuming you have the fuel system to keep up with the increase in airflow. My AFR doesn't change when I raise or turn down the boost....

 

[Boost95]

And why won't this work? The MAF will read the additional airflow, and therefore add additional fuel. AFR should remain the same, assuming you have the fuel system to keep up with the increase in airflow. My AFR doesn't change when I raise or turn down the boost....

K'mon man, your not serious..WTF

 

[1990EclipseGSX]

Yes, I am serious.

 

[dsm-onster]

This won't work. If you are setting your A:F first, and then raising your boost, you are adding more air thus changing your A:F.

The proper way to do it would be to first lower your timing (to keep things safe) and then set boost. Once you have the boost where you want it, you then tune for your target A:F. Once you have the desired A:F, you can then add timing to make power.

You know DSMs sport MAF sensors, right? This does not jive with what you said at the end of January about the way you tune. You stated that you 'adjust the boost to where you want it' before you 'get the A:F ratios where you want them'. See here: http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1763116&postcount=17.