06-21-2005, 04:16 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Registered: Apr 2005
Posts: 28
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1g Wont Kick over...... Please Help!
I just had a Brand New ACT 2100 Clutch Put in along with a findaza flywheel- I was out last night and i gave it a couple runs probably before I should of.... Anyway I went all out on it a few times a it started to whine at idle through Gears ect..... then finally it just died. I took off the timing belt cover and the timing belt is still there and its tight. What else could it be? Hope its not the motor!  It Cranks but it won't kick over. Could I have blown the coil Pack?
Thanks for all your help!
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06-22-2005, 03:10 AM
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#2 (permalink)
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From: Seattle, Washington
Registered: Sep 2003
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To start a car you need: fuel, spark, timing, and compression.
Most of the time, its no fuel or no spark that is causing the car not to start. Those are easiest to check. Go see if you are getting spark to all 4 cylinders, and see if you are getting gas into the cylinders also. Once you find the general problem(no spark, or no fuel, or even both), you can narrow down the problem to find a fix.
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06-22-2005, 11:12 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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From: philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Registered: Apr 2005
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by bigjangin
To start a car you need: fuel, spark, timing, and compression.
Most of the time, its no fuel or no spark that is causing the car not to start. Those are easiest to check. Go see if you are getting spark to all 4 cylinders, and see if you are getting gas into the cylinders also. Once you find the general problem(no spark, or no fuel, or even both), you can narrow down the problem to find a fix.
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I don't hear it primeing when I turb the key- The Crank Spins but I never listened to the fuel prime so it might but I don't hear it. Whatever went it was winding like I had a supercharger before it bent. Like I said timing belt is still intact. Thanks for your help!
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06-23-2005, 11:18 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Registered: Apr 2005
Posts: 28
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Everybody don't chime in at once now!
Any input would be greatly appeciated cause my car is not moving!
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06-23-2005, 01:33 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Burbank, California
Region: SoCal
Registered: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,432
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Quite possible that your fuel pump died. Unfortunately, without a better description, it's hard to diagnose.
1) When you turn the key, does it crank?
2) If it doesn't crank, do you hear a quiet whine when the key is in the start position?
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-John (Sleeper 90 GSX)
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06-23-2005, 02:58 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Registered: Apr 2005
Posts: 28
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Talesin
Quite possible that your fuel pump died. Unfortunately, without a better description, it's hard to diagnose.
1) When you turn the key, does it crank?
2) If it doesn't crank, do you hear a quiet whine when the key is in the start position?
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Yes the Car Cranks but thats it. I don't hear the fuel Prime at all but I never payed attention to it-
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06-23-2005, 04:43 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Burbank, California
Region: SoCal
Registered: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,432
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Well then. You'll want to check your spark next. Could be a lot of things at this point.. might be easier to drop it by a mechanic. Let me brainstorm the 'things that might have died' list...
-Coilpacks
-CAS
-ECU
-MPI Relay fuse
-Fuel pump
-Clogged fuel line
-Dead fuel regulator (not keeping enough pressure)
-Cylinder compression (lifted head or something of the sort, so all would have zero)
All I could come up with in thirty seconds, but the next thing to check is your spark. If you have someone stand beside the car with a can or whatnot, you could take off the fuel return line at the regulator, and try cranking it.. should have gas squirt out.
Also, how long are you cranking it for? Mine takes between 7-10 seconds most of the time, as my fuel system doesn't hold pressure when the pump is off.
____________________________
-John (Sleeper 90 GSX)
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06-24-2005, 01:28 AM
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#8 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Seattle, Washington
Registered: Sep 2003
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After cranking pull the plugs and see if you smell gas. Then test for spark. Thats a good start. Search on this site or on google to see how to test for spark, its pretty easy.
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06-24-2005, 06:21 AM
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#9 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Burbank, California
Region: SoCal
Registered: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,432
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Apparently my mechanic tests for spark by pulling the wire while it's running, then holding the plug end near a handy chassis bolt. If there's a spark... well, there's a spark.  No clue if this is safe or not, so be careful, and I was nowhere near it if something goes horrible. 
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-John (Sleeper 90 GSX)
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06-27-2005, 10:31 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Registered: Apr 2005
Posts: 28
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Im Deff. getting Spark...... So i waiting on my Walboro 255 and I guess we'll see what happens.
Thanks for the help and other information is Appreciated!
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07-06-2005, 02:09 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Belton, Missouri
Registered: Apr 2005
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if you have access to a pocket logger kit you can turn the key to the on postion and check the relay to the fuel pump.. doing this will turn the fuel pump on w/ out the car running... and just like other people have stated id check for spark as well as fuel. ive always taken my plugs out cranked themotor a couple times and then shine a flashlight through the sparkplug hole and looked to see if the top of the piston is wet on all 4 pistons. while you have all four plugs out, put them on the end of the plug wires and sit them so you can see spark from them, have someone crank your motor and look for spark, do a compression test and if thats good go from the cheapest to the most expensive.. checking for fuel, spark, replace the transistor pack, coil pack, cas, ecu for spark ..............or fuel filter, dirty injectors, clogged fuel line, burnt injectors, fuel pump, ecu.. for fuel supply issues. just my 2 pennies.
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07-11-2005, 08:54 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: mt. juliet, Tennessee
Registered: Mar 2005
Posts: 9
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Most auto parts retailer sell a spark gap tester intended for high voltage sytems. It work really well for systems with sensitivity to added electricity. Instead of touching the plug or wire to a ground, and possibly shocking yourself...you just plug it in between the wire and the plug. You can even adjust the gap to what the plugs gap is set at, it'll give you an idea of how well its working...or whether it is at all. The part costs 4 bucks...so it makes sense.
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