Possible Phantom Knock Cure

[jfdid]

Hey guys, as stated in another reply on the board: I had a boost leak from my PCV Valve, so I removed the system: Plugged the intake fitting, and vented the two holes on the valve cover. It completely eliminated my knock problem. I tried getting a new valve first, but it was faulty, so I removed the system. If you can keep the system and fix the leak, obviously, that's the better way to go.

Just something to think about, it may or may not help you, but I know there's a lot of deperate people out there with knock.

Thanks for the space.

 

[Joesmoke]

Thanks for posting! There are a lot of desperate people with false knock and everything helps!

One thing I have found is that DSM's are not the only vehicles with touchy systems. It is apparent on other vehicles as well. We are not alone!

What I have concluded from this is that if you have done everything you can to eliminate sources of false knock and you still have it, dont waste any more time. It can be fruitless!

Beg borrow or steal some money and investigate the J&S safeguard system. They list a product for the "eclipse" and Im guessing that it should be for 1 or 2g.

http://www.jandssafeguard.com/

This is a modern day system of detecting and controlling knock, that as reported, will work better then our cars dated system designed for a car running 200 hp. Really, if you have real knock because your pushing a little too hard, this sytem is still far better.

Jason

 

[98spydert]

$500 on a bandaid? Probably not. I'd run a custom EPROM chip before spending that many bones.

 

[Joesmoke]

If cost is your only concern then yeah, a reburned eprom is a good idea.

Calling it a band aid is hardly appropriate, It uses better technology than my 13 yr old ecu. The same technology thats used in modern production cars and modern high end cars that are retrofitted with turbo systems. People with $150,000 bimmers will want the knock protection, but would hardly stand for a system that that just freaks out and retards all the spark when thats not required. They dont want that and neither do I.

Honestly, if there is a downside to improved performance using new technology (cost aside) let me know, I just dont see it.

Jason

 

[98spydert]

When you're talking to DSM tuners "cost aside" doesn't register well.

 

[SexyDSM95]

I know SAFC V2 and DSMLink can either quiet or get rid of the phantom knock. Also may prevent it...DSMLink is just as much and it also logs/manipulates. Honestly, I would rather have a logging system on my laptop then just another piggy back that does it's own thing without my knowledge.

 

[Joesmoke]

Safc can manipulate fuel air to tune for real knock occurences. It can monitor knock on the 1g's, but not affect it. This issue is for false knock, usually caused from noisy engines etc.

Can't comment on DSMlink although I thought you could turn down the sensitivity (essentially) .

I think most people that have false knock can minimize using common sense things. Others, do have false knock that can be a real problem.

Cost is mostly a huge issue for DSM'ers, I can appreciate that.

The way I look at this system is like this. Did anyone say that the MAFT was a bandaid for the 1g or even 2g maf? No. They took it for what it was. An improvement in 13 yr old technology that improved performance. In this discussion, thats the issue.

Yes, unfortunatley it does become another piggyback, but one that is more set and forget then any others. Its more of a bolt on compliment to the original ECU.

Yes, at this level there are other alternatives and the reburned ecu is a good value. It utilizes the old technology and manipulates that for something better.

A true standalone offers modern technology but comes at a high price and steep learning curve.

I try and be open and say "what ever floats your boat!"

 

[98spydert]

But it's still a bandaid. An extremly expensive bandaid. A lot of people have problems that cause all of this false knock that's really not false. I had it BAD to the point where half the time I would accelerate normally I would watch my knock gauge go crazy. I just gave up and left it alone after trying to tune it out. I upgraded to a ported evo3 16G and 2.5in tubular o2 housing a couple weeks after it sprung up and it went away completly with no other changes. I can't explain my own "fix" but tons of people get rid of it by finding little boost leaks like the author of this thread or other problems.

Seems like if you're just going to give up and fix it, you can spend $100 on a DSMchips or other EPROM chip. The stock system seems to be sufficient besides the PK problem.

Personally I'd invest in finding the real problem but ike you said though, too each their own

 

[jetdriven]

well I have a custom EPROM chip and it doesnt completely cure phantom knock either. I am getting knock even at 2500 RPM and 13 degrees timing. This after playing with the timing and fueltables and the PK mod which ignores the KS off boost. I have had it for 13 months now, since when I first bought the car. Timing, MAFT adjustments, maintenance, fuel pressure, nothing takes it away.

I wouldnt call the J&s a bandaid. It is true individual-cylinder closed loop knock control. Way more advanced than the factory, actually any production car, on the road today.

 

[98spydert]

Yeah I understand it's extremly advanced compaired to the stock system. But my real point is, unless it really is engine noise (which it seems like mostly it's a boost leak or something) it's just another way to cover up the problem. I'm not trying to say the system itself is a waste or anything

 

[Joesmoke]

Well, Im glad we can at least see the potential, and the concept that it appears to be a good system.

And yes, I agree that the stock system does do its job. My problem is that its a not a lifter noise sensor, or a occasional rattle sensor. Its a knock sensor! Really, my lifters are not clattering away like some diesel, and the rest of the car does not sound like a piece of crap! But, it still picks up those misc noises.

Jason

 

[doug]

Can't comment on DSMlink although I thought you could turn down the sensitivity (essentially).

What DSMLink does is let you set the RPM and Throttle Position thresholds; below that threshold any knock signal is ignored. So yeah, if you set them high enough (such as 8000 RPM or 100% throttle) you can completely ignore the knock sensor signal. It's not quite a "sensitivity" setting though, in the strictest sense.