I'm trying to decide which intercooler and turbo to go for and was wondering: Will a good upgraded side mount IC, such as the one from HRC or wherever, work with a turbo as big as the AGP L2R or the FP Green, mostly on the street with a daily driver? The only thing I found when I searched was a thread about a Supra SMIC and Mutt Level 2. I don't want to go FMIC unless I have to-- I'm concerned that a FMIC would block too much radiator and make the engine run too hot in this south FL heat, plus I'm cheap...

I know a front mount would work better (probably), but would an upgraded side mount be good enough for say, mid-12s?

BTW, I talked to Dejon yesterday who said they were coming out with intercoolers (both FMIC and SMIC) for 2Gs soon. The SMIC will be $460.

I have a Forced Perfromance big T28 along with a bunch of other mods including the HRC sidemount IC. This has worked out just find for the hot North Carolina summers. The other factor to consider is not just the IC. It is the intake air source. Most of us have a K&N FIPK or something like it. It is great because it sucks in a whole lot more air than the stock box. But it can olny usck in the air that it has access to and unless you have made changes tht will be hot air right off the back side of the radiator.
To fix tht I have done two things. One, I constructed a "dam" to blck as much of the engine compartment air as I could. Two, under the K&N I cut a 3" hole to let air in from behind the fender cover. That has made a huge difference in that the intake air is somewhat cool to bgin with and the IC doesn't have to work so hard.

I had an Alamo upgraded SMIC on my 2G running an T28/S60. In the summers it heat soaked bad. Unless the HRC or the Supra SMC is a HUGE improvement over the Alamo, I'd say you're wasting your money.

Your intake air temperatures would be through the roof. If you cant afford the FMIC hold off on the turbo.

Doug, get the FMIC. You won't regret it and you won't have to upgrade again down the line, wasting more money.


Ryan www.RnRRacing.com

Thanks for the replies everybody. So, engine overheating with a FMIC wouldn't be a problem even here in Hot-and-muggyville?

Originally posted by jdoug
Thanks for the replies everybody. So, engine overheating with a FMIC wouldn't be a problem even here in Hot-and-muggyville?

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I would go fmic also, Im either going with a small GReddy or something similar. I have a few months to make my decision though. I'm just hoping all the other companies like Indy race core and such, have there 2g fmic out by the time I can purchase one, with some good reviews. It just pisses me off that everytime I buy something it seems, that some other company comes out with something better or cheaper. Plus a fmic looks good on our rides IMHO.

Originally posted by jdoug
Thanks for the replies everybody. So, engine overheating with a FMIC wouldn't be a problem even here in Hot-and-muggyville?

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Do you have any overheating problems now?
If you don't do anything, just put in the FMIC, you probably will. There are ways around it though.
First thing to do is to get a mitsubishi 180 degree thermostat, MD997607. Then get an adjustable fan switch, jegs part number
771-18907. The sender is 3/8npt which threads into a couple of sports on the thermostat housing, like where the vacuum line piece in the thermostat housing went (don't need it, take it out). The stock sender is in the bottom of the radiator, so the fans don't turn on until the engine itself is very hot. Now you can control when the fans turn on.
Keep the stock fans if at all possible, their shrouds are very nice. Few aftermarket fans have shrouds.
Next is overheating while moving. You have a large bumper opening, so no worries there (can be a problem with 95-96). Most people remove the ducting from the front bumper to radiator when putting in the FMIC. Without it there air can go through the FMIC and just go bellow, or to the sides, of the radiator. Make some type of ducting to force all the air through the radiator. Plastic sheets for garden edging from a hardware store work.
Create a low pressure area behind the radiator, this will help to pull air through it at speed. You can make an air dam bellow the car, behind the radiator. Go look at some newer GMs, many of them do this.
Or you can put in some type of hood scoop, RRE has some carbon fiber ones that can be riveted to the hood.
Finally there is the actual core itself. You want the core to be as close to as wide as the radiator as possible. This way the endtanks don't block airflow to the radiator. A side to side IC is MUCH better in this respect than a top to bottom ic. Also look for a core that isn't really dense, the APEXi cores are good in that respect.

hope that helps a little

Originally posted by rdrkt
Your intake air temperatures would be through the roof. If you cant afford the FMIC hold off on the turbo.

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I 2nd that.. a sidemount just doesnt cool the air enuf for a large turbo like the L2R or the Green..

Originally posted by NDgsx
hope that helps a little

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A little? Wow, that helps a lot-- thanks! And everyone else too. I'll be cutting and pasting this thread onto my hard drive for when it comes time to actually DO this stuff. Hopefully sooner than later...

The more efficient your turbo the lower temps will be at any given boost level. A Green at 15psi would actually work better than a 14B at 15psi with an SMIC. Just something to think about.

Also people think that if they are just building a "street car" and not a "race car" they don't have to go as big on stuff like injectors or intercoolers. I disagree. Since street cars typically use crapier fuel and run for longer amounts of time I think you should do stuff to the max on a "street car" (that is you will be trying to make max power on pumpgas). It's easy to build a race car (to a degree), it's hard to build a street car. My car was running 13.4 in race car trim (racing fuel, lots of boost) but could only manage a 14.4 (pump gas, way less boost) in street car trim.

Originally posted by NJGSX96
I had an Alamo upgraded SMIC on my 2G running an T28/S60. In the summers it heat soaked bad. Unless the HRC or the Supra SMC is a HUGE improvement over the Alamo, I'd say you're wasting your money.

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I had problems with the alamo as well, I actually "upgraded" to a stock SMIC after a while.... and took off .3 with it.

The core designe for alamo intercooler's isn't the best, doesn't allow for good heat transfer.

Originally posted by 92rslaser
Doug, get the FMIC. You won't regret it and you won't have to upgrade again down the line, wasting more money.


Ryan www.RnRRacing.com

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ryan do you guys make 2G kits yet with short route piping... was looking at that 2-120 core you have on your site with no price...

Originally posted by NDgsx
Finally there is the actual core itself. You want the core to be as close to as wide as the radiator as possible. This way the endtanks don't block airflow to the radiator.

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i was wondering about this since my last post was about the 2-120 spearco core.. its 24 inches wide without endtanks as far as i know. the (2-216?) race core is much wider but you lose the foglights on a 2g.. i know i know.. rice. but i'd like to get a large enough core that won't screw with airflow to the radiator too much, and allows me to keep my fogs.

i was looking at the hahn FMIC kit for the 2G because the design is supposedly a lot better for radiator airflow but i'd like to have short route piping and theirs goes to the stock locations.. an upside is that it mounts to the foglight housing so you don't lose the fogs the way their piping is routed. i think its also 24 inches wide though and hella expensive.

i need some suggestions for a good FMIC for my 99 GSX that would best fit my criteria.. thanks guys..

Originally posted by NDgsx

Do you have any overheating problems now?
If you don't do anything, just put in the FMIC, you probably will. There are ways around it though.
First thing to do is to get a mitsubishi 180 degree thermostat, MD997607. Then get an adjustable fan switch, jegs part number
771-18907. The sender is 3/8npt which threads into a couple of sports on the thermostat housing, like where the vacuum line piece in the thermostat housing went (don't need it, take it out). The stock sender is in the bottom of the radiator, so the fans don't turn on until the engine itself is very hot. Now you can control when the fans turn on.
Keep the stock fans if at all possible, their shrouds are very nice. Few aftermarket fans have shrouds.

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What about leaving the heat shields on the exhaust mani? Help any or doesn't it matter?

Originally posted by G-Ell


What about leaving the heat shields on the exhaust mani? Help any or doesn't it matter?

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Any little bit helps, I always laugh when I see cars where they just left them off. I have the turbo parts (mani, turbin, o2 housing) thermal coated to reduce radiant heat in the engine bay. You can get your hand right next to them even after a hard run.

I'd wait until Ken gets the 2G IRC kits done with the 216 core personally.

Originally posted by NDgsx


Any little bit helps, I always laugh when I see cars where they just left them off. I have the turbo parts (mani, turbin, o2 housing) thermal coated to reduce radiant heat in the engine bay. You can get your hand right next to them even after a hard run.

I'd wait until Ken gets the 2G IRC kits done with the 216 core personally.

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What company did you have to the thermal barrier coating? How much did they charge?

Originally posted by NDgsx


Do you have any overheating problems now?
If you don't do anything, just put in the FMIC, you probably will. There are ways around it though.
First thing to do is to get a mitsubishi 180 degree thermostat, MD997607. Then get an adjustable fan switch, jegs part number
771-18907. The sender is 3/8npt which threads into a couple of sports on the thermostat housing, like where the vacuum line piece in the thermostat housing went (don't need it, take it out). The stock sender is in the bottom of the radiator, so the fans don't turn on until the engine itself is very hot. Now you can control when the fans turn on.
Keep the stock fans if at all possible, their shrouds are very nice. Few aftermarket fans have shrouds.
Create a low pressure area behind the radiator, this will help to pull air through it at speed. You can make an air dam bellow the car, behind the radiator. Go look at some newer GMs, many of them do this.
Or you can put in some type of hood scoop, RRE has some carbon fiber ones that can be riveted to the hood.

hope that helps a little

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The sender for that unit from Jegs looks quite long


You're sure it fits into the thermostat housing?

Can you elaborate on the air dam idea? Is that just like a sheet across the bottom of the car that prevents upwards air flow? Maybe like 6"-12" deep (or whatever will fit) blocking off the underside of the engine compartment starting at the radiator?

I have the HRC front mount and run (ran, uprgrading)a BR20G. I live in AR and it is very hot and very humid. I only have 1 radiator fan. I use the AC all the time, its always on. I have never had any type of overheating problem ever. The 2G's dont seem to have the problems the 1G's do with big front mounts and over heating.

jeff

Performance Coatings in Auburn, WA. They charged me $190 if I remember right, but I got a discount. I think it's normally around $260.

Just attach the plastic to the front crossmember (that big black metal piece that you jack up the front end from). Have it hanging down 3-6", be careful though you don't want to hit speed bumps. It goes straight up, just a thin piece of aluminum or plastic, nothing behind it. Take a look at some of the newer Buicks or a C5 vette to get an idea of what I mean. The air hitting the dam now has to go down underneath which creates a low pressure area behind the dam. Air going through the radiator now has a path of lower resistance.

That is the part number that my friend Shawn Jewett ordered. He's been running the kit since a little before the shootout. I'll ask him if that's the right picture.

ok, why didn't anyone metion the supra sidemount, we have a a girl running one with a mutt3 the 50 trim, and she made roughly 370whp, and ran a 12.3x at the SO, it works fine for her!!!

Originally posted by NDgsx
That is the part number that my friend Shawn Jewett ordered. He's been running the kit since a little before the shootout. I'll ask him if that's the right picture.

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For the record this adjustable switch can be had from Summit for $49.95 ($10 cheaper than Jegs). That picture that jegs lists also seems to be incorrect, Summit also shows the same picture that the permacool web site shows.

Permacool Page:
http://www.permacool.com/Catalog/Cat_page19.html

Summit Page:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=11228&view=257#largerimage

Originally posted by GST4U2NV
ok, why didn't anyone metion the supra sidemount, we have a a girl running one with a mutt3 the 50 trim, and she made roughly 370whp, and ran a 12.3x at the SO, it works fine for her!!!

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Just because she ran such and such a time, and put down such and such a WHP figure, doesn't mean it's working.

She could have put down 400whp+ with a proper fmic, and gain a lot more safety with it as well.

You guys are really missing the whole point. If you upgrade past a 16g'd-sized turbo, you don't have to question about intercooler upgrades, you simply NEED A FMIC. Why are you trying to be cheap, and run a puny/weak/insufficient stock SMIC on a turbo that costs well over a THOUSAND DOLLARS. A setup like that won't run much better than a 16g with a fmic.

Sorry about that, I completely forgot to talk to Shawn.

Originally posted by DSMu4ia
Why are you trying to be cheap, and run a puny/weak/insufficient stock SMIC on a turbo that costs well over a THOUSAND DOLLARS. A setup like that won't run much better than a 16g with a fmic.

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Seriosly, if you step up to the plate you should swing. Sometimes I totally understand the mentality, you want to run a certain part but you want to save money elsewhere. But in the end you are going to be pissed if you don't just do it right the first time.