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Auto Parts Store Alternator vs. Mitsubishi OEM

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jp171

20+ Year Contributor
758
1
Apr 6, 2003
Oakland, California
I'm curious as to what would be a better buy:

1. A rebuilt alternator from Murray's Auto Parts (those of you from the midwest will know this store) that comes with a lifetime warranty that from my experience is actually honored (I've gotten a power steering pump and a radiator replaced under warranty from them).

or

2. The OEM part from Jeep/Eagle/Plymouth or mitsubishi.

I kind of like the idea of being able to walk into any Murray's and getting a new part if it fails, but i'm not sure if OEM is a better buy. I'm trying to avoid getting gouged by Satan, because all the dealers around Cleveland have certainly earned the nickname (IMO).
 
I bought a rebuilt alternator but had problems after 6 months. I have since bought one from Mitsubishi and have had no problems.

Dan
 
I'd do a junk yard cruise and see what Hyundai or whatever else uses the same Hitachi alternator, or the same form factor, and go for a higher output. Once I found out what interchanges, I'd try to get a "good" one from the Pick-and-Pull for $15.
I don't know what goes on with rebuilders where you are, and it mostly comes down to that- if the local rebuilder is a good outfit that actually replaces the slipring brushes and armature bearings, they can be the best deal around. If they're the kind of shop that blows the dust out and slaps on a sticker, you'll need and frequently use a lifetime warranty- which still won't cover your time. You can be ahead to have the local well pump company do a rebuild on it, and they can re-wind the stator to crank up your output, if they will.
I might go dealer-new if they could supply the Canadian 90 amp, but I'm not keen on shelling out -what?- $380?- for an alternator.
 
I just had my Bumper to Bumper guy look up the Highest Amp Mitsu Alternator that would fit - It was about $150.00

max amperage 121 amps

- 100 amps at 3000rpm

max 1548 watts

Manufacturer Ampere - p/n 21491

Make damn sure you have no P/S leaks!!!!!
 
Few things, OEM will have the best reliability. The Lifetime warranty is not as it seems. It is a Limited Lifetime Warranty, which means that at anytime after they warranty the first one they can say take a hike if they want. In my past experience with aftermarket alternators the best ones seem to be from NAPA. They cost a little more than other parts chains but seem to have tighter quality control. Hope that helps.
 
Originally posted by Defiant

I might go dealer-new if they could supply the Canadian 90 amp, but I'm not keen on shelling out -what?- $380?- for an alternator.

You can go to the dealer and ask for Galant VR-4 alternator. It's the one with 90 amp output. And it's brand-new OEM reliability. (Make sure it's 90-amp)
Or you can go to Murray's.. etc and buy Alternator for Galant vr-4, and keep replacing it...

Junk yard sounds good. But I personally wouldn't want to deal with the headache of something like that being possibly already shot, or failing prematurely, etc... but then again, you might come accross one fro $20 or so and it'll last forever...

OEM or dealer for something like that for me.

Junk yard is for bumpers, hoods, windows, intake manifolds, valve covers, doors, lights, simple crap like that... in my opinion.
 
i bought a new one from NAPA a few months ago.. i think it was about $220 with a $70 core charge... or something like that.. anyway.. it ended up costing me about $150 after i gave them my dead one
 
What are you guys planning on using the alternator for anyways?

Im planning on doing some heavy duty car audio in my talon, and need to upgrade the alternator. If you guys were planning on upgrading for the same reason, i suggest you check the car audio forums on the net.

You can have nice 180-200a alternators built for you. Many people do it. Its just that the average joe who doesnt need it for car audio or whatnot isnt willing to spend $400 + on an alternator.

Theyre out there though.
 
If your was working fine and then stopped working and you don't have a PS or oil leak that killed it you might want to think about taking your apart and replacing the brushes.
That's all that was wrong with mine when it died.

OEM replacements usually have better regulators than the run of the mill auto parts store. That's why I go to the junk yard for a pull before I go to an autoparts store.

Steve
 
Those you get from Murrays are Mitsubishi Alternators with new aftermarket internals. (refering to a reman)

I installed one and it lasted a total of 2K miles. Granted, I have a lifetime warranty, but I've got time invested in the installation.

Suggestion, like those above, pick one up from a salvage yard.

or, if you've got skill............ 99% of the time it's the rectifier that went bad. You can order this and put a new one in yourself and it'd be as good as new.
 
On this subject I re-routed the Power Steering return line to the top of the Strut mount where the HVAC lines run on my 1G - It helps a little bit on belt adjustments & lot on Timing Belt cover, etc, etc. Swapped to Synthetic P/S Fluid while I was at it.
 
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