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Complete TurboSystem Components & Installation Pics

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When I first started looking into getting a turbosystem for my RS I did TONS of research. I read up on different systems and contacted manufacturers, etc. I always wanted to know EXACTLY what a complete system included.

I even found people who had pieced together their turbosystems themselves to save money. Some parts they ordered new and some they bid on e-bay or bought used. Still, no one could give a semi-detailed list on what all was needed.

Finally, I went with the HRC Stage II direct from Hahn. Before purchase however, all they could tell me was that the system came with everything you need except the manifold gasket and the gauges. This is my first turbo so what is "everything"?

Anyway, I am currently installing the Stage II and though it would be beneficial to post the major components of the system. I think I got it all. As I install I will post some pics and stuff too.

Hope this gives more info than I could find when I was looking. Enjoy:thumb:


GENERAL COMPONENTS

Qty Description
1 - Turbo
1 - Actuator (with turbo)
1 - Manifold
1 - Downpipe
1 - Air Filter
1 - Instructions
1 - Breather Filter
1 - 3/8” Connector tube 2” long (with breather)


TURBOCHARGER FASTNERS


Qty Description
1 - Turbine Inlet Gasket
3 - 10mm x 1.5 x 30 Stud
3 - 10 x 1.5 Flanged Nut
4 - 3/8 – 16 Stainless Steel Flanged Nut
6 - 8 x 1.25 x 25 SHCS
1 - Turbine Outlet Gasket
1 - 2 ¼” S/S Muffler Clamp

OIL SYSTEM FITTINGS

Qty Description
1 - 3/8” St. Tee
1 - 3/8” to -4 JIC
1 - ~4 90~ Swivel
1 - Oil Feed Fitting, 12mm x 1.5 x -4 JIC
1 - ~8 Bulkhead Union
1 - Hi-Temp Oil Drain Hose
1 - 90~ -8 Push Loc Hose End
1 - ~8 Stat o Seal
1 - ~4 Hose with Ends 32”
2 - 6 x 16 HHCS
1 - 12mm Copper Seal Washer
1 - Straight Drainpipe
1 - Drainblock Gasket
1 - 12-20 Hose Clamp

INTERCOOLER SYSTEM

Qty Description
1 - 2” To 2 1/4” Nitrile Coupler
1 - 2” x 90 Elbow
1 - Silicone Hose Coupler, 1 1/4” x 1 1/2”
1 - Silicone Hose Coupler, 2” x 3”
1 - Silicone Hose Coupler, 2 1/4” x 2”
1 - Silicone Hose Coupler, 2 1/2” x 3”
2 - 10 - 16 Hose Clamp
2 - 25 - 40 Hose Clamp
5 - 40 - 60 Hose Clamp
7 - 50 - 70 Hose Clamp
1 - Valve Air Bypass
1 - 8 x 1.25 40 HH Bolt (Specific to SMIC)
1 - 8 x 1.25 x 12 Flanged Nut (Specific to SMIC)
1 - Intercooler, Side Mount, 420A


AIR PIPING

Qty Description
1 - 2” Intercooler Pipe
1 - 2 1/4" Intercooler Pipe
1 - Air Filter Pipe

Almost Done!....

FUEL SYSTEM

Qty Description
1 - Fuel Pressure Regulator
1 - 500 HP Fuel Pump
2 - Spacer, Pump Bracket, Neon Down Pipe
26 - Wire (per foot)
1 - In-line Fuse Holder
1 - 10 AMP Fuse
3 - 6mm Blue Ring Terminal
1 - Relay, 12V 20A
1 - Socket, Interlocking Modular
2 - Terminal, Large
2 - Terminal, Small
1 - Gauge, 0-160 PSI, 1/8 NPT
1 - 1/8” Pipe Plug
1 - 1/8” NPT Street “T”
1 - 1/8” NPT Street Elbow
1 - 1/8” Coupler


HOSE KIT

Qty Description
20 - 3/8” Vacuum Hose
36 - 7/32” Vacuum Hose
24 - 5/32” Vacuum Hose
2 - 5/32” Vacuum “T”
24 - Long Tie Strap
10 - Firesleeve (per inch)


FUEL KIT

Late Fuel Kit (this depended on what month my car was made)


I will post to this thread with some install pics. HRC's install manual is copyright protected so I can't give details but I will show pics and descriptions of my progress.

If anyone has any questions feel free to PM me.

Stay Tuned...
peace:dsm: ;)
 
This is my engine bay before disassembly prep work for the Stage II install. The car was stock when I bought it in June '03. I added the AEM CAI and the PaceSetter Headers, both of which will be for sale (haven't posted yet).
 

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Disassembly & Prep work was relatively simply. Took approximately 2.5 hours. Major steps involved were the following:

~Removal of Battery

~Removal of Headers and Downpipe assembly

~Removal of CAI and hoses. This was actually easier than stock air filtration system removal because all the hard work was done installing the AEM CAI.

~Removal of Driver-side tire (took FOREVER b/c the ICW tuner key stripped my lugs. I suggest buying a MAC tuner key for $20.00 & save headache in the future) and plastic fender well that sets at the front end of the car in the well.

~Loosinge fuse boxes on driver-side for installation of SMIC

~Removal of Upper Radiator Hose (will add heat sleeve)

~Drain Oil

~Drain Radiator Fluid (Not necessary but I did this to check the quality of my fluid)

~Removal of lower section of back seat to access the fuel sending unit
 

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Though the HRC Stage II came with VERY GOOD installation instructions and most parts you need, you still have to stop by the store. So you don't have to stop in the middle of the installation process I would suggest purchasing the following before beginning:

GAUGES - Boost & Air/Fuel

OIL - I use Castrol Syntec

OIL PAN GASKET

OIL FILTER - might as well why you are under there

BORING/GRINDING STONES - Used for boring the hole in the oil pan to just the right size (3/4" in my case) and deburring.

SCHRADER VALVE REMOVAL TOOL - may be specific to the 420A

3" HOLE SAW/DRILL BIT - Used for any routing of intercooler piping.

The following is a brief list of tools I needed:

~Complete Craftsman set - Metric & Standard as some parts w/any system can be standard fit.
~Phillips & Flathead screw drivers
~Wire Strippers
~WD-40 (or other)
~Teflon Paste
~Anti Seize
~Oil Drain pan
~Jack
~Car Stands-3-Ton
~Electric Drill
~Dremel
~Ruler & Measuring Tape
~Lug Wrench

With this you are pretty set to begin.
 
The oil pan was simple to remove. Take your time drilling the hole in the pan though. Here I drilled en 25/64" hole with my bit. From there I lubed w/WD-40 and used the 3/4" boring stone to do the rest. I use a cylindrical boring stone to flatten & debur. Turned out GREAT!
 

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All I can say is this was a pain in the %*! :mad: to install. The hardest part was getting the return hose from the new aluminum billet regulator, installed under the hood, to fuel line under the car. Took a lot of work to find a space to manipulate the hose through without having to worry about chafing or kinking.

Below is a pic of the edge of the regulator and the return hose:p .

You can see the fuel return hose coming out of the left side of the regulator, then coming back to the right behind the red electrical wire. From there it goes pretty much straight down and comes out right where the existing fuel and break lines run under the car.

Due to the difference in fuel systems and pump locations on DSMs this is as detailed and I will go with this. My pump is located by my gas tank and it took me an hour OMG to get it manipuated and mounted so the hoses were safe from harm. Made me sick! :barf:
 

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Pretty Self-Explanatory. Just be careful how you tighten. One thing to note: HRC recommended the manifold gasket I should use and it was a Chrysler metal gasket.

From here I will just post final pics of the installation when I finish it Saturday. I will also show some SMIC install pics but the rest is up to you and to READING THE INSTALLATION MANUAL!

I would also recommend having an extra set of hands around like Big Carson below!

We started at 9:00am and stopped at 10:30pm yesterday with only a 1 hour lunch break/parts run. Install manual says it should take a professional 10 Hours to install. We have about 2 - 3hrs left on the electrical wiring, gauge installation, and troubleshooting.

abyrd96:dsm:
 

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The turbo installation was a tight fit. Recruit someone with smaller hands to wedge in there. Be sure to install your radiator hose heat sleeve and properly align all you tubing and fittings.

BOV was EXTREMELY difficult to get onto the silicon sleeve. I recommed mounting it on the tubing first, then putting the BOV into the sevured silicon tube.
 

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I went with the SMIC b/c it was cheaper, compac, and well built. Install was relativley simple but be careful not to cut wiring harnesses. This is really where the 3" Holesaw drill bit I recommended you purchase comes into play. Depending on year, make, and model a hole may need to be drilled under the fuse box at the front, driver-side area of the car to allow the upper IC piping to fit.
 

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Don't forget the gauges! Boost gauge and Air/Fuel Ratio gauge are HIGHLY recommended. I bought Autometer mechanical boost gauge ($65.00) and Autometer electical Air/Fuel gauge($75.00). I mounted them with an in-dash instrument cluster ($75.00) to get the stealth look.

Word to the wise: BE VERY CAREFUL running you boost gauge line. It chafes and kinks easily. I kinked mine but luckily had enough left over to cut off and discard the messed up part.

The Air/Fuel Ratio gauge taps into you O2 Sensor. Depending on your tools you may have to tie off the O2 Sensor until you can get you DP connected to your exhaust and a mounting bushing installed to hold the sensor. HRC DP are designed to butt up against the stock DP but in my case I had headers so I had to go to muffler shop and get welding done.
 

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Here is the completed Install. I had to cover the Battery mounting rods with old rubber hose to prevent chafing of IC piping. Also had to adjust air filter and piping in one of three or four way as recommended by Hahn so it would fit.

I have a little cleaning up to do - wiring, engine bay cleaning, etc. Other than that I hit the road at 7psi hazing the tires at 6000rpms in first. Aww Yeah!
 

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Always consult the manual for any turbosystem you buy for post-installation and troubleshooting instructions to avoid poor performance and possible engine damage.

Example: HRC Tech. Support helped me identify that my exhaust is retricting my air flow, therefore I am not getting the full 8psi that the system is pre-set to give.

I hope this was helpful. If anyone has questions or comments feel free to PM me.

Remember, quality work on your car is key to quality performance when driving your car. Take your time...get it right the first time...and don't hesitate to ask questions!!

peace:dsm:
 
I normally NEVER tell people about my money business but due to the number of PM regarding cost and ease of installation I have decided to post my investment listing on my RS. All prices below include tax, shippinge, labor, etc. (the total cost of the purchase):

Cost Description Purchased From Date of Purchase
$4,500.00 1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS Skip's Auto Sales 06.10.2003
$117.86 Clutch Products Clutch Clutch Products 06.10.2003
$373.87 AEM CAI, PaceSetter Headers, 2 1/2" Highflow CAT Xtreme Speed & Performance 06.13.2003
$1,000.00 ICW GT Sport 18" Rims; Kuhmo Ecstas Perf Tires Majestic Tires 06.15.2003
$3,129.00 HRC Stage II Turbosystem Hahn Race Craft 08.22.2003
$78.98 Autometer Instrument Cluster Jeg's High Performance 08.27.2003
$68.42 Auto Meter Ultra-Lite Boost Gauge AutoBarn.com 08.27.2003
$71.43 Auto Meter Phantom Electric Air/Fuel Gauge AutoBarn.com 08.27.2003
$203.68 Eibach Sportline Kit Shox.com 09.15.2003
$328.00 KYB AGX Shocks Struts KYB Warehouse 09.15.2003
$89.00 Eibach Alignment Kit KYB Warehouse 09.18.2003
$107.19 Belts CarQuest & SuperLube 09.26.2003
$58.03 Reverse Indiglow Gauge Face Racerwheel 10.07.2003
$35.35 Manifold Gasket Mark Dodge, Mobile, AL 10.09.2003
$233.05 Jet Hot Coated piping, manifold, & downpipe JetHot Coatings 10.14.2003
$60.00 Welding to connect DP Majestic Tires 11.03.2003
$250.00 Suspension Swap Majestic Tires TBA

$11,203.86 Total Invested


Install was not easy but HRC's install manual is EXCELLENT!! If you are not good with cars, find someone who is.

peace:dsm:
 
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