whats the voltage on your alternator coming out as? Could be your not pumping enough amp, to charge your battery and run your system at the same time. Thus your battery isn't taking a very good charge as your driving around thus making it die prematurely.


What kind of subs and amp. Is it a stock alternator, Might need an aftermarket high output one

Could be a current draw (something on somewhere), glove box light, powered accessory (amp,maybe),wired to a full-time live battery power feed.

Aftermarket stereo? When you shut off the car try and notice anything still trying to run.

Pauseflash said:

whats the voltage on your alternator coming out as? Could be your not pumping enough amp, to charge your battery and run your system at the same time. Thus your battery isn't taking a very good charge as your driving around thus making it die prematurely.


What kind of subs and amp. Is it a stock alternator, Might need an aftermarket high output one

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The thing is i did unhook it and still having same problem. Yes its stock alternator but everything was working fine till now. Nothing else is on either when i turn offthe car. Really weird electrical problem.

TALONTRAX said:

Could be a current draw (something on somewhere), glove box light, powered accessory (amp,maybe),wired to a full-time live battery power feed.

Click to expand...

How could i check this, everything is dead and amp was unhooked still not working. What is wired to a full time live battery power is it that little red line? My battery under warranty so should i just go in test it out and get another one?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1496998#post1496998 .... Here is how to check for parasitic draw. Which is what sounds like is happening here.

DragonsLude said:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1496998#post1496998 .... Here is how to check for parasitic draw. Which is what sounds like is happening here.

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Wow that is super confusing

VicBoost said:

Okay, its summer weather over here and everything fine. I got a new batery, alternator was tested good. But whenever i turn off my car and leave it i need a boost, i dunno what the hell it is. I unhooked subs, amp , and still same problem. I don't know what is draining the battery because whenever i turn it off it just won't turn on again. What can be draining the battery im seriously so confused right now, these cars piss me off so much sometimes. I got the battery 2 weeks go and i already need a new one, i just don't believe it.!!!!

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I had a similar problem like you, it turned out to be my power antenna. Im not sure about you hard top guys, but if you have one... unplug everything connecting to it and see if that fixes your problem.

97gstnick said:

I had a similar problem like you, it turned out to be my power antenna. Im not sure about you hard top guys, but if you have one... unplug everything connecting to it and see if that fixes your problem.

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What you mean unplug everything? My amp and subs are disconnected

VicBoost said:

What you mean unplug everything? My amp and subs are disconnected

Click to expand...

Unplug everything going to your power antenna.

97gstnick said:

Unplug everything going to your power antenna.

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Sorry i don't know what you mean unplug, fuse, and where is the power atenna. What do i unplug?

Should i just replace my battery again or get it tested. The system might of drained it after 3-4 weeks. Also should i use a voltmeter too see if its not the alternator. There this red wire connector for the battery before it wasn't on the terminal and i put it back on, could that be the problem?

go in, have the alternater PULLED and checked. Dont let some ass tell you he checked the current of it with it still hooked up. You can't do that.

A pita troubleshoot, would be to take one of the standard 12V testers that you click to ground and touch a lead and it lights up. Ground it out, and start going through your fuse box, see if your getting any power from that point when everything is off. If not keep tracing to component level, anything that could be stuck on.


Honestly, an optima, shouldn't drain that fast, no battery should. By little red wire, it's hard to get what your saying. What does that little red wire go to? your stereo? What size is your amp? what do you have them set for? Do you have a Cap running with it, at least 1 farad?


Are all your grounds on the car good? do you have rust on the inner chassie where something is trying to be grounded?



What I'm saying, is it could be a lot of things man, but there is no way a battery should go like that. Make them pull your alternator if they haven't done so already. At the minimal they have to pull the leads off of it, and turn the car on to see what the current is coming out of it. I've seen some of the lazy ones say there is a "Trick" that they dont have to disconnect for a current check. Thats not right. If everything is good.... Start troubleshooting




Do you have a Charger to charge your battery? or is it that shot?. If your in a pinch, use jumper cables and jump it off something else.

VicBoost said:

Wow that is super confusing

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What is confusing is 280 hp with a t25?????

Look at the link again, the most important part for you starts:
"FOR THE CASE OF A BATTERY DRAIN with/without blown fuse"

It is saying to use a test light, disconnect the battery and place the test light between the battery terminal and the wire. If it lights, then you have current flowing with the ignition turned off. Start pulling fuses one at a time until the light goes out. Then you at least know WHAT circuit is causing the drain.

Good luck.

Ok, I'm at work, being as such I didn't have much time to throw this together. So I hope it helps, if not, I can walk you further through it this evening.



I had to attach it. It's crappy because I can't really get to many websites from here at work. Stupid network secuirity.

VicBoost said:

The thing is i did unhook it and still having same problem. Yes its stock alternator but everything was working fine till now. Nothing else is on either when i turn offthe car. Really weird electrical problem.

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I have a buddy that has an old grand prix that does the same thing. Check all your fuses and make sure they are good. That is his problem.

How about the basics?

How clean is your battery and terminals? White crud on anything? How clean are the wires under the insulation of the battery terminals. Very hot tap water poured over battery corrosion works wonders to remove it.

When I worked at Autozone, I saw numerous people running in circles with this stuff and it turned out to be corroded wires from the alternator to the battery, hence little charge getting to the battery. Or a crusty battery conducting electricity thru the gunk built up between the terminals.

Adam

kidrabbit84 said:

How about the basics?

How clean is your battery and terminals? White crud on anything? How clean are the wires under the insulation of the battery terminals. Very hot tap water poured over battery corrosion works wonders to remove it.

When I worked at Autozone, I saw numerous people running in circles with this stuff and it turned out to be corroded wires from the alternator to the battery, hence little charge getting to the battery. Or a crusty battery conducting electricity thru the gunk built up between the terminals.

Adam

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Im pretty sure its a draw because i never experience that but i did do all the same things even sued baking soda to get rid of the resudo. But i wll try the hot water thing. I got a lighter thing so imma check each fuse.

If you cleaned everything up then it is probably draw.

Okay battery was checked and is fine....has to be a draw. Whats the best way to check for a draw or easiest ways.

that little picture i drew up top, is to check for draw. If you've checked that, and there is no current being pulled while your car is off, it's a connection between your battery and alternator or a bad alternator.

Pauseflash said:

that little picture i drew up top, is to check for draw. If you've checked that, and there is no current being pulled while your car is off, it's a connection between your battery and alternator or a bad alternator.

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Okay i have one of those test light thing. Do i take it and and attach it to the battery as a ground and then check each fuse? I believe i don't have multimeter.

VicBoost said:

Okay i have one of those test light thing. Do i take it and and attach it to the battery as a ground and then check each fuse? I believe i don't have multimeter.

Click to expand...

Ok, for a test light just put it inline with the battery. So it'll look just like that picture, instead of the multimeter just from the batt term to the wire harness. Now, If it shows you have a draw, hook the system all back together, and fuse by fuse go through.


The only thing, that I can think of, that would come remotely close to having that light come up, is your radio, but it should be dim as hell.

But I do suggest, every DSM'er have a Multimeter. Much better then a test light for checking them. On a 12v alternated system, it's much better to have an analog one (with a needle) then a digital, for the fact, that voltages will always change by little amounts on an alternated system, and for people that are new to working electronics, it can be quite confusing to try and track the small changes. Where as the needle is less sensitive to those small changes.. which in a car that has high tolerance for voltages going in to components, the needle is pleanty accurate enough.

Pauseflash said:

Ok, for a test light just put it inline with the battery. So it'll look just like that picture, instead of the multimeter just from the batt term to the wire harness. Now, If it shows you have a draw, hook the system all back together, and fuse by fuse go through.


The only thing, that I can think of, that would come remotely close to having that light come up, is your radio, but it should be dim as hell.

But I do suggest, every DSM'er have a Multimeter. Much better then a test light for checking them. On a 12v alternated system, it's much better to have an analog one (with a needle) then a digital, for the fact, that voltages will always change by little amounts on an alternated system, and for people that are new to working electronics, it can be quite confusing to try and track the small changes. Where as the needle is less sensitive to those small changes.. which in a car that has high tolerance for voltages going in to components, the needle is pleanty accurate enough.

Click to expand...

okay every fuse was fine except the fog lamp and the rad fan.... but how would that affect my battery O ya i forgot the radio one ain't lighting up either. Any suggestions.... will changing these fuses even help with my draw....? I was using my test light thing