I relocated my GM MAF-T from my engine bay into my cockpit for on-the-fly tuning and protection against weather. It makes a world of difference and tuning is a breeze now.
Parts needed:
10 16gauge wires 12' long each-(120 ft)
1/2" Wire loom(10 ft)
12 Black Zip ties
Wire cutters
Wire strippers
Connectiors--I soldered my wires, but you could use the crimp on style.
Heat Shrink tubing(for the soldered wires)
OR a 6ft MAFT wiring extension, availabe for around $20. If I had this available to me, it would be easier, except it is only 6ft long, and you'd have to make a hole in the firewall for the wire to reach.
It's very easy to do. The hardest part is running the wire. I bought 2 "strips" of wire with four wires in each strip, equalling 8 wires. Note: I'm not using the purple wire lead, so I only need to extend 9 wires. The ninth wire is just a single wire for my RPM signal wire.
I ran the 9 wires from the engine bay(by the MAF) to the driver's side of the firewall, through a rubber grommet(you can use the steering boot-just poke/cut a hole in it), in front of the HVAC console, and into the back of the glove box.
Above: This is the overall view of the engine bay wiring
Below: This is the grommet I used to run the wires into the cockpit.
The next step is to cut your MAFT from its plugs. There are two black wires, and two pink wires, so I marked each of them with tape so I could differentiate between the four. I made a quick wiring schematic of the wires, just to make sure I'd get everything back together in the right configuration. I cut the wires about half way up so I had lots of room to work with.
Organise your wires and make sure you know where each is going before you start making connections. If you want, connect all of the wires temporarily, and start the car up to make sure everything is working properly(check for the lights on the Translator, and log the airflow Hz)--I didn't bother as I was confident in my wiring.
Below: this is the soldering finished
I found it easiest to make the connections inside the car first, and then take the slack out of the wire all the way to the MAF for the cleanest look. Now you can connect the other end of the 'extension' to the plugs.
As stated above, I used solder to connect the wires, I trust it MUCH more than crimp on connectors, and it looks cleaner too if you use heat shrink tubing.
After the wiring is all done, and you've tested the car, mount the Translator, using double sided adhesive tape/or screws, depending on your situation. I used the 3M tape that's made for body moulding and badging.
Below: This is the translator in the glovebox with 3m double sided tape.
I also used some wire loom to clean up the install and make it look as factory as I possibly could. It also protects the wire from damage(and heat to some point).
Below: This is the wiring done with loom and zip ties.
I still may run the wires a little differently under the hood, it's not as clean as some people would like, so i'm going to look into it.
Overall it took me about 3 hours or so to get everything right.
I can't stress enough how nice it is to tune inside the car. I'd spend another 3 hours on this if I needed to, it's VERY handy, and much easier to tune now.
I hope you find this info handy. If anyone has any questions, or you need a template of the wiring diagram, let me know and I'll post it.
Parts needed:
10 16gauge wires 12' long each-(120 ft)
1/2" Wire loom(10 ft)
12 Black Zip ties
Wire cutters
Wire strippers
Connectiors--I soldered my wires, but you could use the crimp on style.
Heat Shrink tubing(for the soldered wires)
OR a 6ft MAFT wiring extension, availabe for around $20. If I had this available to me, it would be easier, except it is only 6ft long, and you'd have to make a hole in the firewall for the wire to reach.
It's very easy to do. The hardest part is running the wire. I bought 2 "strips" of wire with four wires in each strip, equalling 8 wires. Note: I'm not using the purple wire lead, so I only need to extend 9 wires. The ninth wire is just a single wire for my RPM signal wire.
I ran the 9 wires from the engine bay(by the MAF) to the driver's side of the firewall, through a rubber grommet(you can use the steering boot-just poke/cut a hole in it), in front of the HVAC console, and into the back of the glove box.
Above: This is the overall view of the engine bay wiring
Below: This is the grommet I used to run the wires into the cockpit.
The next step is to cut your MAFT from its plugs. There are two black wires, and two pink wires, so I marked each of them with tape so I could differentiate between the four. I made a quick wiring schematic of the wires, just to make sure I'd get everything back together in the right configuration. I cut the wires about half way up so I had lots of room to work with.
Organise your wires and make sure you know where each is going before you start making connections. If you want, connect all of the wires temporarily, and start the car up to make sure everything is working properly(check for the lights on the Translator, and log the airflow Hz)--I didn't bother as I was confident in my wiring.
Below: this is the soldering finished
I found it easiest to make the connections inside the car first, and then take the slack out of the wire all the way to the MAF for the cleanest look. Now you can connect the other end of the 'extension' to the plugs.
As stated above, I used solder to connect the wires, I trust it MUCH more than crimp on connectors, and it looks cleaner too if you use heat shrink tubing.
After the wiring is all done, and you've tested the car, mount the Translator, using double sided adhesive tape/or screws, depending on your situation. I used the 3M tape that's made for body moulding and badging.
Below: This is the translator in the glovebox with 3m double sided tape.
I also used some wire loom to clean up the install and make it look as factory as I possibly could. It also protects the wire from damage(and heat to some point).
Below: This is the wiring done with loom and zip ties.
I still may run the wires a little differently under the hood, it's not as clean as some people would like, so i'm going to look into it.
Overall it took me about 3 hours or so to get everything right.
I can't stress enough how nice it is to tune inside the car. I'd spend another 3 hours on this if I needed to, it's VERY handy, and much easier to tune now.
I hope you find this info handy. If anyone has any questions, or you need a template of the wiring diagram, let me know and I'll post it.
