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The disks are the same for the 2100 and 2600(not sure about the 2900) You can just replace the disk but most people recommend replacing the whole thing when a new one is needed.

If the pressure plate looks fine, I wouldn't worry. Unless you're going to be driving the car hard, then I would replace it all.

Originally posted by leet
If the pressure plate looks fine, I wouldn't worry. Unless you're going to be driving the car hard, then I would replace it all.

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is small16g driving hard? well shhit, i dunno myself, some people got low 12's outta 16gs, but i drive noramlly usually, just when I hit the highway on the weekends, i get the heavy foot.

I would just replace the PP and disk. The kit has a TOB but I would go for the OEM one and just use an old alignment tool.

If you replace all that at once that is one less thing to worry about.

Michael

I would wait to make that decision till you get the old clutch out and look at it. The condition of the clutch is soley dependant on you and your ability to drive. I had a friend go through his 2100 in 9 months because he's an idiot and can shift smoothly to save his life. My 2100 is going on a year and everything is fine and I have way more mods and hp than he does.

Basically look at the pressure plat and flywheel, if they have stress/heat cracks or glazing at all Id replace both. If you get just a new disk with a glazed and/or cracked flywheel and pp then all youll get enough grip to drive the car. Otherwise it wont hold ou for launching.
Andrew

I agree with most people so far.

It depends once you crack open the tranny and take a look at the clutch how it looks will have a significant impact on what you should replace.

Originally posted by ITSME4G63
are the street disks all the same in the clutch packages 2100-2600-2900?

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ACT's website (http://www.advancedclutch.com/) only lists clutch kits with street discs for the 2100 and 2600. Their official kits for the 2900 only come in 4- or 6-puck discs. So, I'm thinking that the vendors that sell 2900 kits with street discs are piecing them together themselves, instead of buying an official kit from ACT. I would be leary about using a 2900 pressure plate with a street disc when ACT sells no such combo, but that's just me.

By the way, the ACT part numbers go as follows:
MB1-HDSS = 2100 clutch kit (street disc)
MB1-XTSS = 2600 clutch kit (street disc)
MB1-XXR6 = 2900 clutch kit (6-puck)

The MB1 is for the DSM setup.
The HD=2100lb. pressure plate ("heavy duty"), XT=2600lb. pressure plate ("Xtreme duty"), and XX=2900lb. pressure plate ("MaXX Xtreme duty").
The SS = street disc, R6=6-puck, R4=4-puck.

Shep runs a 3200 PP with a street disk. I cant ever see running a pucked clutch on the street even if it has a sprung hub. They just grab to hard and make it a bi*** to drive in traffic. I would go with a 2900 and street disk as opposed to a 2900 with puck. Again this is only if i were making the power to need that kind of setup. I think or 90% of us the 2600 with streetdisk will work just fine.

Michael

See, I don't really have the ability to just take my shit apart and look at it, I don't have a garage , since I want to get my engine rebuilt next month I was thinking of changing the clutch while everything else is being done, is there really a need to change a pressure plate or is it only the clutch disk?

Originally posted by boostedinaz
Shep runs a 3200 PP with a street disk.

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Actually John's pressure plate is basically a 2900 (maybe 3000). I don't know why you DSM guys are so stuck on the numbers. What starts off at 31-3200lb will break in at about 2900lb. What starts off at 2800 will break in at about 2600. Since there is so much flucuation in how you test a pressure plate, we just call them "Heavy Duty", "Xtreme", and "MaXX Xtreme" and reveal the % of increase over stock (at peak clamp load)

You know how it is... if we have a 2600lb, then someone else will call their clutch a 2700lb. Who knows what the other clutch really is.

Originally posted by ACTman
Actually John's pressure plate is basically a 2900 (maybe 3000). I don't know why you DSM guys are so stuck on the numbers. What starts off at 31-3200lb will break in at about 2900lb. What starts off at 2800 will break in at about 2600. Since there is so much flucuation in how you test a pressure plate, we just call them "Heavy Duty", "Xtreme", and "MaXX Xtreme" and reveal the % of increase over stock (at peak clamp load)

You know how it is... if we have a 2600lb, then someone else will call their clutch a 2700lb. Who knows what the other clutch really is.

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It is just referred to it that way for us and has been for along time. i dont see what the big deal is becasue it is all for comparison sake. If soem one aske what clutch I have I tell them 2600 instead of maXX XXXtReme with 4 X's and a small m, or well its a 2600 but it will break in at around 2400 so i have a 2400.

I read somewere that he had a 3200 with a street disk so that what I posted. sorry it was the exact info with all correction factors.

Michael

Originally posted by boostedinaz
It is just referred to it that way for us and has been for along time. i dont see what the big deal is becasue it is all for comparison sake. If soem one aske what clutch I have I tell them 2600 instead of maXX XXXtReme with 4 X's and a small m, or well its a 2600 but it will break in at around 2400 so i have a 2400.

I read somewere that he had a 3200 with a street disk so that what I posted. sorry it was the exact info with all correction factors.

Michael

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No big deal, just clarification. Then you have a Xtreme (one X, small m) pressure plate (probably 2500-2700lb) that originally tested between 2700 and 2900lb for the first week or so. Any clutch loses load as the spring settles. It's just funny to me that we only get the number game on the DSM, not Honda, Nissan, Toyota, Mazda, VW, etc. I mentioned the clamp loads a bunch of years ago and it just stuck I guess.

Originally posted by ACTman
No big deal, just clarification. Then you have a Xtreme (one X, small m)

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Thank God!!!!!!!!!!! Someone on here with a freakin sense of humor. I was begining to think thet Defiant was the only one who could give out a bit of sarcastic humor.

I had a hell of a time on some website becasue they didnt have the numbers just the names. I finally got it figured out and that made it super easy. We DSM'ers are a weird bunch.

Michael

Originally posted by ACTman
It's just funny to me that we only get the number game on the DSM, not Honda, Nissan, Toyota, Mazda, VW, etc.

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its easier like that to indentify, you don't have to say "I have a act heavy street disk" because that could confuse the hell out of everybody, you say "I have an act 2600" and everybody knows what youre talking about

yeah us dsm guys are just cool like that....:laugh:
Andrew

Originally posted by ITSME4G63
its easier like that to indentify, you don't have to say "I have a act heavy street disk" because that could confuse the hell out of everybody, you say "I have an act 2600" and everybody knows what youre talking about

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Easier for you maybe. My problem is that people say the 2600 is too strong and the 2100 is not enough, can I have a 2365 or something. Or we will test a clutch at slightly higher or lower than the number and the customer is concerned because it is not "to spec". Still not a big deal, it's just funny, that's all.

Then there's the whole "stage" thing. We don't use stages and yet customers will say, "I have an ACT stage 2, 3, 4..." OK, which way would we "stage" them? By torque capacity, engagement quality, price, durability, speed of shifting? There are too many variables.