1G help with 1g rear caliper assembly

Mystic511 · Apr 16, 2004

Ok, i'm really desperate for some guidance now.

I bought a whole new rear caliper and mounting bracket for my 92 tsi awd (driver side rear).. I can't figure out how it goes together. The caliper that's already on my car, the bottom part of the caliper is a bolt, and the top part is like a hinge that just lets the caliper swing up.

Since I couldn't get the caliper off the bracket, I figured I had to get a whole new assembly. The caliper and bracket that I bought from conicelli came seperate and not hinged like I thought it would be. I also got two bolts and two clip/sleeves. The new caliper looks exactly like the old one, so i'm not sure how to mount it to the bracket. There doesn't seem to be a place for the bolt on the top of it where it is suppose to be hinged and swing up.

So basically I have the bracket (that bolts to the hub), two bolts, two sleeves, and the top part of the caliper. Do I have everything I need? If so, can you walk me through how to put it together?

My car's been on jackstands for like three weeks now, so I'm desperate to get it done this weekend.

Thanks in advance for your help, I truly appreciate it.

steve · Apr 16, 2004

Originally posted by Mystic511

So basically I have the bracket (that bolts to the hub), two bolts, two sleeves, and the top part of the caliper. Do I have everything I need? If so, can you walk me through how to put it together?

You should have the two bolts for the bracket to spindle, 1 guide pin, 1 lock pin, 1 sleeve for the guide pin, 1 sleeve for the lock pin (there different parts), 1 bracket, 1 caliper, 4 clips, 2 or 3 shims, two pads.

Assembled they look like this:

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The bracket with pads and guide pin installed on the drivers side looks like this:

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Let me know what else you need, I have more pictures from rebuilding the calipers.

Steve

NOSLO2PT0 · Apr 16, 2004

Damn STeve, that's pretty bling bling. Wanna come over and do that to my GSX?

steve · Apr 16, 2004

Thanks Mike, but I did it for totally functional reasons.
The rear pads had frozen to the brackets and water had gotten into the parking brake actuator.
I had to strip them all the way down and polish as much of the roller bearing back to life as I could since I couldn't find a replacement bearing.

Here's all the parts other then the seals and boots before reassembly.

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Finished. The G2 two part paint should protect them from rusting again for the life of the car. I did the fronts when I rebuilt the junk yard dual piston calipers a year earlier but didn't take pictures of the process.

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NOSLO2PT0 · Apr 16, 2004

what kind of paint and where you get em?

steve · Apr 16, 2004

I bought it directly from G2 Engineering http://www.g2usa.com/ a while back since Folia-Tec was hard to find.
I picked up some yellow to do my MR2 at Car Boutique in Schaumburg (Golf and Roselle).

Tire Rack now sells it and a boat load of others (just do a google search)

Normally they have you brush it on with a crappy acid brush but I wear a resperator and spray it. It's some sort of 2 part polyurethane like Imron. Really nasty stuff if you breath it.

Steve

Mystic511 · Apr 16, 2004

Steve, you are awesome. I could not have asked for a better reply. If there's anyway I can give you feedback or anything, let me know, i'll gladly do it!

I think I understand what I have to do now. So basically you bolt the lock sleeve to the lock pin and then mount the caliper to that. Bolt the guidepin and it should all be good right? Just want to confirm.

Thanks again, your pics have helped ALOT. :thumb:

steve · Apr 16, 2004

Originally posted by Mystic511
So basically you bolt the lock sleeve to the lock pin and then mount the caliper to that. Bolt the guidepin and it should all be good right?

Yep, that's about it. Getting the parking brake cable back on was the hardest part.

Steve

Mystic511 · Apr 19, 2004

I got the parking brake back on, and I noticed that the ebrake line pulls that spring loaded lever up a little even when the ebrake handle is all the way down. It sits about halfway when down and fully compressed when ebrake handle is pulled up.

The passenger side the spring loaded lever is fully down when the ebrake is down. It only comes up about halfway when ebrake is up.

I'm worried that the ebrake line is too tight and it will make it so that the ebrake is always on.

Do you think I should loosen the ebrake line so that both sides are fully down and only come up halfway or is it not a big problem and something the caliper can adjust for?

Damn it, i broke that metal hose that connects the two brake lines on the front, tried to order another one and because it's such a small part, they won't let me place the order unless i get 15 dollars minimum. The part is like three bucks.

Anyone have suggestions on things I can get?

:thumb:

steve · Apr 19, 2004

Originally posted by Mystic511
Do you think I should loosen the ebrake line so that both sides are fully down and only come up halfway or is it not a big problem and something the caliper can adjust for?

With the handbrake down there should be up to 2mm between the stop pin and the lever stop. Anything more and you have a problem.

Since the autoadjuster for the brake hasn't adjusted yet, it doesn't suprise me that once side pulls farther up than the other when you pull the handbrake. Try pumping the handbrake a for a while to make sure any slack is taken out of the adjustor.

Do you mean your local dealer won't order the strut brake line for you unless you spend $15?
I've never run ito that, but I never have any problem going over $15 on a parts run. Worst case order a bunch of oil filters to make up the difference, you'll always use them.

Steve

Mystic511 · Apr 20, 2004

Thanks again steve, I will try pulling the ebrake a few times next time I get under there.

If that doesn't work though, is there anything else I can try? I know there's a tensioner bolt under the center console, but I'm not sure if that will loosen both sides at once. I wouldn't want to loosen the new caliper and then have the other ebrake line too loose.

devioustsi · Aug 9, 2004

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does anyone know if the bracket is included in a loaded caliper kit from a parts store....the store clerks at local stores arent sure and it has to be order in anyhow

the reason im asking is because i snapped a caliper mounting bolt in the bracket thanks for any help..

gary

ps. this is for the rear of a 90 tsiawd

steve · Aug 9, 2004

I have the impression that autoparts store calipers don't usually include the bracket.

If all you did was snap off a bolt, it shouldn't be too hard to get it out.
PB Blaster, some heat and an ez-out should fix it. Worst case drilling it out and clear the threads with a tap. If your not good with a center punch and a drill take it to a machine shop.

Steve

Mystic511 · Aug 9, 2004

when i ordered my caliper, it didn't come with the bracket. I am assuming that most caliper kits don't come with the bracket. It makes sense since it could be reused. but in my case, my bracket and old caliper were stuck together so i had to get a new one.

When you say the bolt broke of, you mean you can't get the caliper off the bracket either?

devioustsi · Aug 10, 2004

i snapped the bolt (that holds caliper in place so it cant swing) inside the bracket i am good with torches and easy outs but i have done enough brake jobs to know when to stop while im somewhat ahead... i say this because the caliper is off my 90 tsi and the car has been in storage since 91 or early 92 so everything is really locked in place and i mean why shouldn't they be after 12 or 13 years and the original pads and rotors were on it all the way around...

but anyways i did call around and most common autoparts stores did not carry the bracket but UNITED IMPORTS up here in ny does carry the bracket in their loaded caliper kits but its $140 a side....oh well we all know dsms = time and money mostly money

thanx for the responses though

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