1g Wont go into gear with engine running

[dieselsdad]

I tried to post in the TRans Tech area but it won't let me post there yet?!

I can't get my 1g FWD to go into gear when the engine is running. The problem showed up on the track, went into a very low speed turn, went to downshift and wouldn't go into gear. The tranny is completely fresh (3004 original miles in fact) and has never shifted bad. I'm not ham fisted with my shifts, take my time and don't power shift it.

I pulled the trans and found that the stock clutch disc had disentegrated so I replaced it along with the PP and flywheel, all from the same mfr. I also checked the slave cylinder to make sure that it was functioning. Still wouldn't go into gear.

I then pulled the tranny thinking a shift fork might be bent/broke, everything looks brand new. Buttoned it back up. Still won't go into gear.

I've done some research on here and it seems I can adjust the clutch rod at the master. Any ideas. The main reason I'm perplexed is because this happened all of the sudden. There were no issues, everything was fine then BLAM, it don't work no mo.

What's next?

Thanks,

 

[awd96]

You never mentioned how the pedal pressure was? The master cylinder could be bad, if you notice moisture around the boot where your adjustment rod is, then its time to replace it. Also, when replacing the PP, disc, and flywheel or one or the other, I'd replace the slave anyways. Last, if your clutch isnt bled properly it will not disengage fully and it will block the shift.


Also what do you consider a completely fresh trans? Or, who did the work?

 

[dieselsdad]

The pedal pressure feels fine. I'll be bleeding the clutch again here shortly to be sure.

Why did it do it all of the sudden? Is that the usual MO?

The tranny (and car) has 3004 ORGINAL miles, I pulled it apart and it is literally brand new, all synchros, gears, forks etc look brand new. It shifts like butter when the engine is OFF, wants to grind and won't go into gear when the engine is ON and the wheels are on the ground.

 

[dieselsdad]

Come on guys help me out here.

This IS on my racecar. I have one of the Archer Bros. PRO cars (the 1990) and can't humpty back together again.

I adjusted the clutch master cylinder rod tonight and still no luck. I can start the car and when I try to put it in gear, it grinds and won't go into gear.

Any ideas?

 

[psiaddict]

Come on guys help me out here.

I adjusted the clutch master cylinder rod tonight and still no luck. I can start the car and when I try to put it in gear, it grinds and won't go into gear.

Any ideas?

Well, the one thing that you might look into that you have not mentioned doing if the shifter adjustments. I had a transmission grinding issue that gradually got worse over time to the point that I thought I needed to get the transmission rebuilt. But, after noticing that it seemed to change severity depending on the shifter positioning (very subtle changes in the left/right positioning before trying to move it into gear) I went through the whole shifter set-up; re-adjusted the cables after re-positioning the shifter base and my problems almost disappeared. This may not be your issue at all but it may be worth a look…

As to why this would happen suddenly, maybe your cables have stretched over time? Or something has worn in the shifter assembly?

Below are some of the links I used to do the work:
Shifter Adjustment
Speed Source shifter cable bushing install
1st Gen Shifter Mod

Good luck

 

[LiquidX]

Do you still have your alignment dowels?

 

[dieselsdad]

What are the alignment dowels?

I have a hard time believing the shifter cables are stretched, they're practically new but at this point I'm game to anything.

Now my friend is having the exact same problem in his DD car. The clutch blew up, replaced it with new and now it won't go into gear. All of the same symptoms.

There is an easy fix here somewhere that we are all over-looking.

 

[LiquidX]

The alignment dowels are little cylinders that go into the engine block and the transmission. They allow perfect alignment between the two and if they are gone you can have some bad symptoms like you are saying. I'm only asking because you took out the transmission though.

Flywheel step height is good? New TOB? Shift fork is still good?

 

[1990talondsm]

I am having the same problems and cant seem to figure it out. It sounds like you have done all the right steps. but I would change the slave and master first

 

[90on35psi]

When you try to get it into gear do you try every gear? Not saying you want to take off in 5th...
When you put the tranny back in did you use the little dust shields that bolt on between the bellhousing and the block? If you don't the trans will not be lined up straight and bad things happen...
Also have you checked the pedal assembly for wear?
Have you noticed any drop in fluid level in the clutch master reservoir?

 

[jayb903]

We definitely need to solve this problem as I have the same symptoms. Does the clutch pedal pressure feel different when car is on versus it being off?

 

[dieselsdad]

Clutch pedal doesn't feel any different with car on or off. I have tried getting the car in ANY gear. I've tried starting the car in gear but the clutch is obviously dragging, it jumps as the starter turns. No loss in fluid. I have a new slave cylinder coming today and I will swap that out between 3p and 4p today once it arrives. I do have the dowels between the trans and the engine in place. Here's a rundown of how everything went.

-Racing the car at Hallett, dive into turn 2 and as I go to downshift, the car will not take any gear. I need to say this, the entire car only has 3000 miles on it from new, yes they are tough miles, it's been a racecar since it was born but they are well taken care of miles. This trans has always shifted like butter and I am not hard on it by any means.
-Pull the car into the paddock because the pedal feels differently and I suspect it's the slave cylinder. Crew pokes their head under the car and the slave is doing it's thing. Our racing is over this weekend.
-Put the car on the trailer by starting it in gear.
-Once home, we look over the hydraulics and everything LOOKS ok.
-Pull the trans and pull the clutch and voila, I think I've found the problem, the clutch disc is toast (Archer bros used stock clutch, interesting).
-Order new clutch, pp and lightweight flywheel, chose XTD because it's cheap and we wanted to see if they work.
-Install new stuff. DOESN'T WORK.
-Pull trans and put it back on thinking somehitng wasn't aligned. DOESN'T WORK.
-Pull trans, tear trans down, everything looks perfect (we were hoping for messed up shift forks) put trans back in. DOESN'T WORK.
-Spend too much time on forums looking for answers. DON'T FIND THEM.
-Adjust the clutch rod back and forth. DOESN'T WORK.

Now I'm here. I'm telling you, when we find the answer it's likely to be an easy one.

 

[90on35psi]

I envy you and you're brand new parts... Anyways, this thing is definitely not disengaging the clutch for some strange reason. Seeing as you have good pedal pressure, it seems that the end result has to be the clutch fork is not travelling far enough to fully disengage the disk and pp. How far out did you go on the clutch pedal adjustment (i.e. making the master cylinder rod longer)?

 

[LiquidX]

Try this

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[dieselsdad]

Did it already.

 

[90on35psi]

How far out did you go with the adjustment?

 

[90on35psi]

Wondering if you've tried anything else? Only other thing I can think of to try could be a slave cylinder extension rod but that's kind of just a band-aid...

 

[dieselsdad]

I emailed Jack, from the video above, and he said the amount of travel I'm getting from the slave (3/4") is right where I need to be. I bought another slave cylinder but it seems mine is doing what it's suppose to. I tried the adjustment rod all the way in as well as all the way out. The clutch is dragging, if you put it in gear and then try to start the car it jumps as if the clutch is not pushed in.

Any other ideas?

Thanks,
Michael

What breaks on the 1g clutch pedal assembly? I noticed a "welded" unit offered for sale on the ShepTrans website. I'm wondering is a weld broke on my pedal assembly? Where would I look for this broke weld? I won't be able to get to the car until Wednesday.

 

[Lofty]

Try some syncromesh?

 

[dsmloverguy90]

Surprised with all the posts that nobody asked about him adjusting the pivot point on the trany?.

 

[dieselsdad]

checked the pivot already, it's fine.

 

[96Formula6spd]

I have something. When I was working on my firebird I had the exact same problem. Turned out to be the new clutch disk was warped. Took it out and replaced it and it worked till the engine blew up...100 miles later.

 

[diamond-star]

checked the pivot already, it's fine.

mine would not go in to 3rd or 5th...i had a buddy move the shifter and found out it was the braket that holds the cables.(on top of trans). was not letting the shift linkage move correct..

 

[MIdsm]

Is the flywheel step within the recommended range?

 

[dieselsdad]

Was the bracket on top of the transmission moving around while you were trying to shift it into gear?