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Road Course & Autocross Autocross, Road Race, and Open Track Event discussions. Preparation, technique, tips, and stories from the events. Tell us about your last event.

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Old 05-15-2008, 09:52 PM   #1 (permalink)
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From: Lone Tree, Colorado
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About to miss my second event this year - damn car won't start

So I got it all back together - changed from a GM MAF to a 2G MAF. Soldered all the wires according to the VFAQ. Put a 1GNT throttle body on and soldered the factory TPS back in place. Didn't touch the ignition system outside of that except to solder a wire that came loose on the Coil-on-Plug.

Turned the key and got the car to start a couple of times but it was missing badly and running horribly rich. I did this before I hooked up the laptop to change the MAF settings. After changing the MAF settings and adjusting the TPS I tried turning the key again... the starter is working like crazy but it just won't start. I figured I flooded it and pulled the plugs and cleaned them up. Put 'em back in and same deal.

I don't know what to look for now. I swapped in another MAF to see if that one was just bad. No luck. It's getting fuel so I suppose it must be spark. Not sure what I should check next. Bad coil? Bad power transistor?

I was so looking forward to this weekend too.


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Old 05-16-2008, 07:01 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Here ya go, Chris.



Quote:
Originally Posted by luv2rallye
If no spark on any, your problem has to be one of the following (in possible order of likelihood):
  • Fuse
  • Loose connection of ignition wiring/connectors
  • Coil
  • Cam angle sensor - CAS
  • Crank position sensor - CPS
  • Power transistor (to test: How to test the power transistors - DSM Forums)
  • ECU
  • MPI relay (this powers the ECU and injectors, will have injector voltage if good)
  • Bad battery (check battery voltage while cranking)
  • Ignition wiring open or short
  • Shorting ignition filter capacitor (possibly intermittent and only with voltage applied, can just disconnect to see effect)


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Old 05-16-2008, 09:12 AM   #3 (permalink)
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well you can check for spark easily, just have someone crank it over with you holding a spark plug (with the spark plug wire attatched) and ground off the plug and see if you see sparks.

Otherwise follow DSMunknown's post.


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Old 05-16-2008, 11:27 AM   #4 (permalink)
 
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That stinks Chris. I would hate to see you miss 2 events in a row like that. Like has already been stated, I would test for spark then go in deaper if need to and follow what DSMunknown's link says to do. I hope you get it going man. Let us know what goes on with it. Good Luck


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Old 05-16-2008, 03:00 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I dont know if you would need anyhelp but I am free and I have quite a bit of spare parts off a running car in my garage. I am in centennial so I am kinda close.


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Old 05-16-2008, 04:42 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Chris I just had a similar problem with my car with it running really rich and not running good at all. I changed the cam and crank sensors which was about $130 plus time to install and now its running alot better than it was before. It could have spark but just not strong enough maybe new set of plug wires?
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Old 05-19-2008, 09:32 AM   #7 (permalink)
 
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Chris - Did you get this figured out and were you able to make it to the event? Let us know


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Old 06-05-2008, 12:41 PM   #8 (permalink)
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You ever gonna tell us what transpired?


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Old 06-05-2008, 02:28 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Issue with the Coil on Plug setup. I pulled it, put on the factory coilpack and wires and it was fine. Also had an issue with the battery not holding a charge.

I've got a new Gruber (small) battery in there and hope to have everything worked out. Need to get the car tuned before my Salt Lake event next weekend. I'd like to get the car down to test at the track before then but that doesn't seem likely.


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