setting my car up for autocross/road racing

[97t4mitsu]

I just got done with my second build and i wanted to set my car up for autocross. i've got a fully built motor, which hits peak boost at around 4k. i'm just wondering if i need anything else, other than what i'm already doing.

i'm going to do a full coilover suspension from k sport which should lower it 2", rolling the fenders. along with suspension bushings, lower control arms, chassis bars front and top and bottom in the rear. 1 way lsd.

i'm also seeing what i can do to lighten it while still keeping it streetable. for rolling stock i'm looking at some 17x8 +43 offset FN01R-C's from 5zigen, and wrapping them in some 255/40/17's not sure on the tire yet, probably some falkens on the street, and some BFGoodrich's on the track.

what do you guys think?

 

[onegeenewbie]

That's a pretty good plan, but every form of racing has rules. So build your car to the specific class that you want to compete and be competitive in. So in other words, don't modify more that you have to.

 

[96gsdsm]

Full boost by 4k sounds like alot of lag on an autoX track. I hit full boost somewhere near 2.5-3k on the track and I'd like to see boost sooner.

Unless traction is of major concern I'd thing you might want to switch it up to a smaller turbo. I'm sure your times are going to suffer.

 

[RusherRacing]

For autoX read the rules make sure your not in a class above your head or just go for it and have fun

As for the car, Do you have 2 sets of wheels? if so then maybe run falkens on the street and Kuhmo's (V700) on the track great race rubber to learn on. If not falken for everything. Also smaller turbo, I have a T3/T4 A/R.60 thats just to damn big for the AutoX and I am spooling it at a little over 3000rpm, a big 16g or similar seemes to be the best but remember moding your turbo really can effect or classing. Also that 60 trim is in a F Prepared car

 

[absolute_DSM]

Especially if youre just starting - its a lot better to start with a stock car and spend your money on seat time and some suspension.

Im sure lots of guys like 96gsdsm can tell you that.

 

[D_Eclipse9916]

Full boost at 4000 is VERY laggy. I hate mine at 3200 in autocross with those damn STis and their 2.5 liters.

Also you might need more offset on those 5zigens. I am running 43 offset 18x7.5s with 235s and boy do they get damn close (not my track wheels) to the upper part of the knuckle. Why dont you get it pushed out a little to a 38 offset?

Also your setup would be great on road course, our cars suck at autocross, yes you can do very well, but they are heavy, dont like to rotate without comprimising traction and have terrible turning radiuses whcih I find to be the actual big killer.

 

[drivemusicnow]

A key is if that if you want to be at all competitive, you should read and know the class rules. Lots of people build their cars to suit them on the street, and then get frustrated because it classes them with ridiculous fully built racing machines. If you're just doing it for fun, then that's okay, but most people like to be at least somewhat competitive.

 

[96gsdsm]

Especially if youre just starting - its a lot better to start with a stock car and spend your money on seat time and some suspension.

Im sure lots of guys like 96gsdsm can tell you that.

It's all about seat time. If you have a 1g the stock suspension is awsome with the 2g "big brake" upgrade... untill you learn how different suspension tequniques affect different parts of the car. I used to have a non-turbo 2g and I'm thinking some stiffer springs would make it feel alot better... and if you paint them black... no-one's the wiser . (just kidding of corse)

Practice, Practice, Practice.

Good example.... My cousin and all his evo buddies decided they were all gonna get into autoX a few seasons ago..... and gave me crap because I was still running stock class... and they went out and bought all these performance parts and were running in street mod.

They stopped making fun of me when the times came back and me on stock potenzas was almost 2 full seconds faster around the track then them on their stock yokos (which are EXCELLENT tires BTW) and full coil-over, corner balanced, suspensions.



In autoX you have to drive a car suited to your particular skill level. It's easy to get in over your head, and hard to not do certain things to your car (like that big turbo).

The more car you have under you, the harder it's going to be to make it do what you want.

 

[96gsdsm]

... and I shouldn't even have to mention Eddie Griffen...

How can you possibly understeer that bad in an Enzo?

 

[asian312]

Well according to him he got a cone lodged in the wheel well that prevented him from turning.....umm right.

Just like 96dsdsm said, we all preach seat time. Getting to know a base of where your car is and where it can improve is a matter of experience and knowing how different parts/settings will affect what the car is doing. On the flip side build a car that will win within the class rules. Once again seat time will show you where your car's weak points are...Just a hint, power is fairly low on that list.

 

[96gsdsm]

Just a hint, power is fairly low on that list.

Yeah. I can put it into a spin easy if I'm not extremely generous on the gas.

I'm AWD also. Magnify that traction by about 50% and add lots of understeer.

Sticky tires are the most effective mod I've seen on the track for the $.

You could have the best suspension in the world, but without tires, your stuck in straight-line mode.

Everyone and every car likes a different tire. For me it's KDW's. Falkon tires are also very very nice tires to learn on. Very predictable.

 

[mavisky]

255's and +43 offset probably won't mesh well together.

4000rpm isn't a good autox turbo.

Other than that it doesn't sound too terrible.

 

[asian312]

Oops...missed that part. If its a 2G you need a 35 offset or lower to squeeze on 255s. However you will have to revise your suspension to get more height. 255s do not tuck and require some space and/or high spring rates to keep the fender from contacting.