Building a 1990 TSi AWD car for the track.

[neoviper]

I Have a 1990 TSI AWD. I am more into track racing than 1/4 mile. I've read that FWD would be better suited but I cant bring myself to part with my AWD. Has anyone successfully built an AWD track car that can compete on a high level? Does anyone have any advice on how I should go about planning my car? Im new to the forum and i'd appreciate any advice.

 

[Elvenhome21]

Do you have a particular question on how to do or make something.
These 3 threads have a ton of info on them, just be more specific with a list of questions
Need advice on a fuel cell
Race Attire and
Race Groups for DSMs

 

[Dorifto]

Many AWD cars are highly successful in the track racing field. So long as they're tuned correctly, they can handle just as good, if not better than 2WD track-prepped counterparts.

Every chassis orientation has specific handling characteristics, it's all about capitalizing on what works with AWD, and staying away from what doesn't.

 

[stealthTT]

It all depends on with who you plan to race. Each sanctioned racing body has their own rules and classes. NASA seems to be the most welcoming. Then you have to choose your experience/participation level. There's HPDEs, Time Trials, and then Wheel to Wheel racing. Check out nasaproracing.com for more info. There's tons of info available for beginners and the forum is really helpful.

Here's my synopsis of racing in NASA.

If you have little or no experience, I wholeheartedly recommend leaving the car stock except for tires, brakes, and safety. You should use performance tires and brake pads. Then there are some basic safetly items you'll need/want. I recommend a roll bar and head and neck restraint.

It's a TON easier to learn how to drive properly with a slow car. The slow car will teach you how to preserve your speed while cornering. It keeps you from drag racing from corner to corner and wasting momentum. Do the HPDEs and learn car control. Quick drivers can even make Miatas look fast. It's all in preservation of momentum and running a perfect line.

Once you graduate through the ranks of HPDEs you can then join the Time Trials. This is a competition to get one best lap time in your class. There is a lot of strategy and money here. It's not as easy as it sounds or looks.

Last is wheel to wheel. You earn a race license to participate here. The cars have a ton of safety features (roll cage, window net, fire extinguisher, etc.) This is real racing. There are two sessions to measure your lap time to qualify you and put you into a grid. The grid then does a flying start! Then it's the first person to cross the finish line. Some regions allow a little bumping in this series. So it's the real deal!

Read through this forum. There's a ton of information available. But if there's one tried and true rule, your money is better spent buying seat time then it is on mods. Nobody jumps in a car and is fast. Fast comes from experience.

 

[Greg Collier]

It all depends on with who you plan to race. Each sanctioned racing body has their own rules and classes. NASA seems to be the most welcoming. Then you have to choose your experience/participation level. There's HPDEs, Time Trials, and then Wheel to Wheel racing. Check out nasaproracing.com for more info. There's tons of info available for beginners and the forum is really helpful.

Here's my synopsis of racing in NASA.

If you have little or no experience, I wholeheartedly recommend leaving the car stock except for tires, brakes, and safety. You should use performance tires and brake pads. Then there are some basic safetly items you'll need/want. I recommend a roll bar and head and neck restraint.

It's a TON easier to learn how to drive properly with a slow car. The slow car will teach you how to preserve your speed while cornering. It keeps you from drag racing from corner to corner and wasting momentum. Do the HPDEs and learn car control. Quick drivers can even make Miatas look fast. It's all in preservation of momentum and running a perfect line.

Once you graduate through the ranks of HPDEs you can then join the Time Trials. This is a competition to get one best lap time in your class. There is a lot of strategy and money here. It's not as easy as it sounds or looks.

Last is wheel to wheel. You earn a race license to participate here. The cars have a ton of safety features (roll cage, window net, fire extinguisher, etc.) This is real racing. There are two sessions to measure your lap time to qualify you and put you into a grid. The grid then does a flying start! Then it's the first person to cross the finish line. Some regions allow a little bumping in this series. So it's the real deal!

Read through this forum. There's a ton of information available. But if there's one tried and true rule, your money is better spent buying seat time then it is on mods. Nobody jumps in a car and is fast. Fast comes from experience.

Very smart and sound advice!

 

[neoviper]

Thanks for the advice. I can definartely see how keeping my car stock for now is the smart way to go till I can develop my skill as a driver. I have another question. My cars engine is fairly fresh given its age. it has 86k miles on it. The car sat for about 1 1/2 yrs with the occasional startup. From the condition that the clutch was in when I got it replaced the previous owner probably beat the piss out of it. Aside from changing all the fluids and giving it a good tune up what can you recommend for maintenance? will I be looking at an engine rebuild now or in the near future? I really appreciaate you guys giving me advice.

 

[asian312]

If you are uncertain about the condition/maintainence of the engine/drive train then I would start from the ground up and build a log.

- full fluid change (coolant, oil, tranny, x-fer case, rear diff, clutch, brakes, and headlight )
- spark plugs
- leaks (valve cover, turbo oil return, tranny input shaft, etc.)
- wheel bearings
- brakes (not just the pads, but the guide and lock bolts as well as the caliper)
- timing belt (if you dont know when it was last changed, change it)
- tires (balance and proper tread left)
- C/V joints
- boost/exhaust leaks
- compression and leak down tests

Best way to learn, enjoy, and make the most out of your track day is to not spend it worrying about your car. Everyone would rather spend their money on a turbo or exhaust rather than timing belt components, but when your hard on the throttle for 20 min at a time, piece of mind is priceless.

 

[Slow old poop]

I run a 1990 AWD Eclipse, so I feel your pain. I also ran a 1992 Talon TSi AWD car when it was bone stock.

I echo StealthTT's advice. Get seat time.

Here are some more notes to keep your car running safely:

1. Buy a good set of race pads for track use. Street pads will fade and go away in a heartbeat. If you buy Carbotechs, you can use them on the street, too. Check with Philip at supercarengineering.com for advice on exactly what pad to use. If you buy something else, swap in the race pads before each event.

2. Buy a spare set of front rotors. At $20 at most parts stores, they are a really cheap backup. If you warp the rotors at the track, you can swap in a new set very easily. And, at $20 each, you can put a new set on every weekend.

3. Buy a set of track wheels and install a set of Toyo Prox RA-1 tires. You want race tires, because your street tires will get hot, greasy, cord, flatspot and do all sorts of mean, nasty, ugly things. One set of RA-1s will last you an entire season. Go up to 17-in wheels, too. Mustang Cobra wheels are cheap, and will clear your future big brake setup. There is a thread hereabouts somewhere about Mustang wheels.

4. Drain and replace your brake fluid with Motul. If you are on a budget, buy Ford High Performance brake fluid. It's the cheapest good brake fluid out there.

5. Coat your wheel studs with anti-sieze. It will help prevent wringing off wheel studs.

6. Do not modify your engine at all the first year. Spend all your extra money on seat time and instruction. It pays off big time. Besides, your bone stock 90 is competitive as hell in its class.

7. LEARN HOW TO BRAKE! This is more important than anything else, because it will keep you on the track, preserve your tires (no flat spotting), and preserve your brakes (minimizes fade and warpage). Instructors will teach you proper braking procedure.

In case I forgot to mention, spend all your extra money on getting seat time and instruction.

Good luck! Hope to see you out there.

Rich

 

[neoviper]

Thanx again guys. Im definately taking it easy for the first year or so. I was planning on going over the complete maintenance of the car before I did anything crazy to it anyway. I was just digging for some info when I heard some people write that a FWD was better suited for the track to find out exactly how capable my AWD actually is. Thanx again for the advice.

 

[Evan K.]

For decent wheels just get a set of EVO wheels. They can be had relatively cheap,bolt right on with stock lug nuts, are 17x8" and clear big brakes such as my StopTechs