The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

NASA Race at Road America Oct 21-22

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Slow old poop

15+ Year Contributor
707
7
Jul 24, 2005
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Quick summary:

1st in TTB on Saturday
Broke on Sunday (15-cent part)
Passed nearly everybody on a wet track
Went almost as fast as the car can go: 6500 rpm in 5th gear
Beat the guy who came in 2nd in TTB at the Nationals
Very bad news: S2000s will be in TTB next year

An incredible weekend!

It rained much of the time, snowed a little, and the track was so cold the tires would barely warm up by the end of a session, but the Eclipse got through it with flying colors.

It took all season of breaking things, coming in on the hook, and going home on the trailer, but my fantastic crew perservered and refused to give up hope.

We finally saw the potential of the DSM platform. In short, a DSM is a legitimate contender in TTB against M3s, M Coupes, various Corvettes, and assorted other platforms. For me, it was a complete success.

SATURDAY
Cold and wet. The first two sessions were on a wet track, where we just danced around, exploring the limits of traction, and tuning the Apexi for increased boost (18 psi). Finally, the track dried out enough, so I ran without my 230 lb tuner, "LIttle Dan" (Mike the Mechanic refuses to ride with me any more until I fix the roll cage, but Dan has no fear, or maybe no sense).

We turned a 2:42.xxx, fastest in TTB by three seconds and fifth fastest in the TT/HPDE4 group.

Then the rain came, in buckets. I called the team together--Mike, Brent and Dan-- and we had a strategy session. Should I go out again? I have the class win, and nobody is going to beat it in the rain. Mike correctly pointed out that I had little to gain by going out, and much to lose. What if some wonker T-bones me under braking in the rain? I'd be out of contention for Sunday. The forecast on Sunday was for more rain.

James the Fabricator (UnderRadar) came up from Milwaukee to spectate and lend support, and offered to drive back home to get me a set of rain tires for Sunday (street tires on Evo wheels). I accepted his kind offer.

So we packed it in, headed back to the hotel for a nap, and went to the NASA party/award ceremony later that night.

At the awards ceremony, they announced a "fantastic battle for the TTB win, with 1st and 2nd separated by only one-tenth of a second!" Say what? How could that be?

Turns out that the car that won TTC (a Corvette), declared himself in TTB and moved into my class to take second place. I still had 1st, but only by 0.1 sec instead of 3 sec. Before we figured out what actually happened, we speculated like crazy: Why would somebody give up a TTC win to take 2nd in TTB? In the process of figuring all this out, we discovered "NASA's Dumbest Rule": Any car can move up in class at any time. At Autobahn, earlier this summer, the car who came in 2nd in TTC saw that his time would win TTB, so he declared himself in TTB after the race!

The TTC Corvette declared himself in TTB because, being an honest guy, he discovered that adding superwide tires for this weekend added more points, and bumped him out of C into B. Nobody would have known, but this is a classy guy with 15,000 road race miles under his belt and 35 years of experience on the track, so he did the Right Thing.

SUNDAY
We stepped out of the hotel to see snow on the ground, bitterly cold, and howling winds. But no rain. It apparently blew through during the night.

The track was wet, so we had to choose between James' street tires or the Toyo Prox slicks. The team's opinion was that street tires don't hydroplane as much as slicks, but they don't warm up. The Proxes may hydroplane a little, but they will eventually get warm and sticky. So we went out on the slicks.

In the first session, we set 2nd fastest time, beaten only by the S2000 running on Hoosier rain tires. We passed almost everyone in our run group, including TTR, TTU, TTA and all the other classes, and lapped at least one car. More boost! Mike cranked it to 20 psi.

In the 2nd session, on a gradually drying track, we set fastest time in TTB by a fraction over that white Corvette. More boost! Mike cranked the boost controller another quarter turn.

Oops! Brent discovered a cracked brake rotor. Now what?

The strategy for running on a very cold track, I learned, is to use the first four laps to heat up the tires, and go for a hot lap near the end of a session. So I decided to run 4 easy laps to heat the tires but go easy on the braking, and then try for one or two hot laps. With luck, the Stoptech rotor would hold up for two more hot laps.

On lap five, I turned up the wick. 140 mph into Turns 1, 5 and 12, passing two or three cars at a time, but there was too much traffic for a really good lap. Coming into 12, I was in a pack of cars, and spotted a telltale cloud of blue smoke as I went past them onto the front straight. Was that me?

Yes indeed, it was me. I saw the big blue cloud of death whilst braking into 5, so I went straight off the track onto the exit road.

Turns out we broke the oil line from the oil pressure sending unit to the gauge. The crew decided we could fix it if we could find some teeny tiny 15-cent part at a hardware store in nearby Plymouth, so Mike and Dan took off in the truck while Brent disassembled everything. Alas, such a part was not to be found on a Sunday afternoon, so we packed it in and came home. The white Corvette took TTB when we retired.

NOTES
One of the cars I beat on Saturday was the S2000 Honda that won TTC and came in second in TTB at the Nationals (he ran in two classes). So the good news is that I beat the car that took 2nd place in TTB at the nationals. The bad news is that S2000s will be reclassified into TTB in 2007. This particular S2000 is wicked fast, and most likely will be the car to beat next year in TTB.

No more boost. Although Mike cranked the boost, we could not get it above 20 psi. We had zero knock running on race gas, so we could have run 23 or 25 psi. James suggested that maybe my stock blowoff valve is venting, keeping me from getting more boost.

More tire. I've been running 235/40 Toyo Prox RA-1s, which are not enough tire to compete with the S2000 and the Corvette, both of whom are running superwide Hoosiers. It was most obvious in the Carousel -- a long, constant radius righthander -- where they would both eat me up. The Toyos would wash out in the front when pushed to the limit, but the S2000 and Corvette would just scream through that corner. I am thinking of going to Hoosiers next year. ($1,000 a set! Ouch!)

Rain Tires. The DSM platform is awesome in the rain, and would be even more so with a set of rain tires. Not street tires, mind you, but real rain tires. If the budget permits, I may have to get a set (Hoosier rain tires are another $1,000 a set. Ouch again!).

Better brakes. I cracked yet another Stoptech rotor. This makes four rotors so far. Gotta do something about the brakes. Maybe a rear-brake upgrade.

Taller gears. We were pulling 6500-6700 rpm in 5th gear on the straights, or about 140 mph. Mike the Mechanic has me red-lined at 6500 rpm because of the stroker motor, so I guess this means we have to install a "highway" 5th gear to get a higher top speed.

When Brent develops the film in his digital camera (or whatever he does), he'll post some pix.

Rich



.
 
What a great weekend! It sounds like you're just about there with only a few minor adjustments to the "DSM that could". A cracked rotor in those cold weather conditions is crazy! 2007 here you come... excellent job Rich :thumb:
 
NICE JOB RICH!!!!

You have one hell of a season. If you are still interested dont forget about our track day this monday the 30th.

in any event....FANTASTIC JOB!!!!

Eric
 
AMS stampy said:
NICE JOB RICH!!!!
You have one hell of a season. If you are still interested dont forget about our track day this monday the 30th. in any event....FANTASTIC JOB!!!!
Eric

There is nothing I would like to do more than run the AMS event on the South course at Autobahn, now that I have 20 psi boost on tap. Last time at the NASA event, I finished 4th, 4 seconds off the pace, running only 10 psi wastegate pressure.

Alas, I don't think we'll get that cracked rotor replaced in time. I'n not entirely sure I want to keep the Stoptechs anyway. There has to be a better braking system than one that breaks rotors (I've cracked four of them so far). So I am not going to send them $240 for a replacement rotor until we figure all that out.

As long as you are on the line here, just imagine what my car could do with an AMS ball bearing turbo, manifold, downpipe and a Martin special dyno tune...(hint, hint)

Rich
 
Nice work Rich!

Couple questions though. When you say the S2000s are reclassified, doesn't that mean that they will bump up a class? So that an S2000 with mods that would have put him in TTB, would then be in TTA?

Also, why such a low redline on the stroker? I know longevity is key, however keeping the "stock" redline piston speeds you can still rev to 7000 RPM if my memory servers me right. :EDIT:

Another way to do this would be to INCREASE tire diameter, however this throws off the speedometer. (not that it is all that important when racing, other than as a reference) I am not sure what available sizes there are as far as fitment goes, and larger profile may be more expensive, and occasionally can be detrimental to performance.

I would think that the gain in tractive effort through 5th would be more helpful than the taller gear.

I updated the above to show an increase in tire diameter, which would effectively "increase" gearing... slightly, but effectively.
 
drivemusicnow said:
When you say the S2000s are reclassified, doesn't that mean that they will bump up a class? So that an S2000 with mods that would have put him in TTB, would then be in TTA?

I suppose so. I think NASA is concerned that TTC is actually faster than TTB, mostly because of the Hondas, so this is their way of adjusting the classification.

drivemusicnow said:
Also, why such a low redline on the stroker? I know longevity is key, however keeping the "stock" redline piston speeds you can still rev to 7000 RPM if my memory servers me right. Another way to do this would be to reduce tire diameter, however this throws off the speedometer. (not that it is all that important when racing, other than as a reference) I am not sure what available sizes there are as far as fitment goes, and lower profile is typically more expensive, and occasionally detrimental to performance. I would think that the gain in tractive effort through 5th would be more helpful than the taller gear.

I do whatever Mike the Mechanic tells me to do. If he says to keep it at 6500, that's what I do. I have, during the heat of the moment, buzzed it to 8200 rpm (shh...it's still under an AMS warranty) and taken a lot of grief from Mike because of it. Maybe Mike (Stealth TT) can chime in here and explain it.

As for the taller gear...I suppose I could buzz the engine to 7500 in 5th gear and reach 150 mph or so. I didn't have that problem at RA, because I ran out of road before I ran out of rpm. At Brainerd or Mid Ohio, with their long 1+ mile straights, I might be able to buzz the motor in 5th. (That stroker motor pulls like a freight train at the top end)

As it is now, I ran most of Road America in 4th and 5th gear in the dry, coming down to 3rd only in four turns (5, 6, 8 and 12). What I really need is a taller overall gearing, so that 3rd, 4th and 5th would be more useful. I found myself upshifting to 5th right out of some high speed corners (1, 3 and the Carousel), and then pulling all the way down the ensuing straight in 5th gear. It would be nice to have another gear to play with up there.

Rich
 
What about using a 6 speed from an EVO MR? I suppose it might require a different xfer case and custom driveshaft and maybe a EVO Diff. I"m not a DSM guy, so I don't know how feasiable it is but I thought I would throw it out there.

Either way Congrats Rich, I alway knew you could do it.
 
lethal_vr4 said:
What about using a 6 speed from an EVO MR? I suppose it might require a different xfer case and custom driveshaft and maybe a EVO Diff. I"m not a DSM guy, so I don't know how feasiable it is but I thought I would throw it out there.Either way Congrats Rich, I alway knew you could do it.

Since the Evo engine faces the other way, doesn't that mean I would have six speeds in reverse?

I don't know the answer either. It sounds very expensive, and I don't have a sponsor to supply that kind of loot.

Rich
 
Slow old poop said:
Quick summary:

Oops! Brent discovered a cracked brake rotor. Now what?

.

Well in all fairness it was Mike who frist saw the crack in the rotor, not me. I should have some photos to post later this evening
 
lethal_vr4 said:
What about using a 6 speed from an EVO MR? I suppose it might require a different xfer case and custom driveshaft and maybe a EVO Diff. I"m not a DSM guy, so I don't know how feasiable it is but I thought I would throw it out there.

Either way Congrats Rich, I alway knew you could do it.
That wouldn't be the thing to do - I know a local MR owner who just lost his 4th gear and had a 5-speed Shep tranny built up. Shep seems to think that the 6-speeds are not as strong as the 5-speeds.

Rich, I would at least consider upping the RPM to whatever your drop off point is in the power band. Since I put my Forrester manifold on the car pulls strong up top and I've been hesitant to run it higher than 7800k, but I'm no longer limited by the factory intake manifold. I'm sure you'd be okay at 7k. It would just depend on whether you're still making power at that point or not.

Congrats on a great run. I'm looking forward to hearing about next season! And please keep us informed on the rotor situation. If the Stoptechs don't work out, you definitely have to check with TCE. I'm absolutely positive Todd could get you setup with something good with excellent support. Maybe brake ducting is in order (if you haven't done so already).
 
Ludachris said:
If the Stoptechs don't work out, you definitely have to check with TCE. I'm absolutely positive Todd could get you setup with something good with excellent support. Maybe brake ducting is in order (if you haven't done so already).

The Stoptechs lasted all season, probably because I had them cryo-treated. They are barely worn. Until this one cracked, I was planning to keep running on 'em. $240 for the outer rotor ring is an outrageous price. This is my 4th rotor, so that means I'll have spent $1,000 on replacement rotors, about 2X what they should cost.

I took a look at TCE (http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/cgi-bin/brakes/cginews.pl?record=14)
They have 13 in. front rotors, 12 in. rear rotors, and Forged Superlite Calipers. Do we know anybody who runs these brakes on a DSM road race car?

Are they as good as Stoptechs? Better? About the same?
Anybody actually dealt with "Todd"?

Rich
 
First it was very satisfying to watch Rich kick some major butt at RA. Even more so, since RA has taken 2 engines from Rich and 1 from me. RA is just tough on cars with it's looooong straights and high speed braking. I was just elated as Rich's Eclipse came in under is own power session after session, and....AND was kicking butt. If it hadn't been for the cold I might have ventured out and checked out the competitor's cars. In the past I've always been under the hood or laying on my back under the Eclipse from session to session. I can't remember such an easy weekend, let alone at RA!!! :thumb:

Slow old poop said:
I do whatever Mike the Mechanic tells me to do. If he says to keep it at 6500, that's what I do. I have, during the heat of the moment, buzzed it to 8200 rpm (shh...it's still under an AMS warranty) and taken a lot of grief from Mike because of it. Maybe Mike (Stealth TT) can chime in here and explain it.


Rich

I have told him in the past to keep it at 6500 so he might keep it under 7000. ROFL

We wanted it kept under 7000 because that's what was recommended to us by AMS to keep the stroker from eating itself. Before the poly motor mounts, Rich was having catastrophic problems with vibration, so we were trying to minimize those as well. I'm guessing any kind of warranty Rich had on the motor is gone, but I'm still not sure we need to wring the stroker out to 7500 or higher. It has a good wide powerband, he just ran out of top speed. Bigger tires will help if they fit. But does he need to go faster or will that put just that much more stress on the brakes? Supposedly NASA won't be racing at Brainerd next year, so that just leaves Mid-Ohio for long straights. I'll file it under Needs Research.

It was a Great Way to end the season. Spirits were high even though a 15 cent part and another cracked rotor ended the day. Thanks for all your help fellas. We couldn't have done it without ya guys!!!!
 
Slow old poop said:
The Stoptechs lasted all season, probably because I had them cryo-treated. They are barely worn. Until this one cracked, I was planning to keep running on 'em. $240 for the outer rotor ring is an outrageous price. This is my 4th rotor, so that means I'll have spent $1,000 on replacement rotors, about 2X what they should cost.

I took a look at TCE (http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/cgi-bin/brakes/cginews.pl?record=14)
They have 13 in. front rotors, 12 in. rear rotors, and Forged Superlite Calipers. Do we know anybody who runs these brakes on a DSM road race car?

Are they as good as Stoptechs? Better? About the same?
Anybody actually dealt with "Todd"?

Rich

I know Greg Greenbaum (NASA TT Nat Director) runs TCE products on his 300hp SRT. As far as better or same as Stoptechs, I don't know. I do know a lot of people that have nothing but good things to say about "Todd". You also get a NASA discount using the TCE products if this is any help?

I have Stoptech support and have had great success with their calipers and rotors. I've had track support from Matt Weiss (Stoptech engineer) and hours of conversations with Scot Gray who helped Matt with the development of their brakes for ours cars. I've also heard all the arguments of Stoptech vs. Wilwood and I think it may come down to preference, type of pads, setup, driving style, or a thousand other reasons why someone chooses one set of brakes over the other.
 
Greg Collier said:
I have Stoptech support and have had great success with their calipers and rotors. I've had track support from Matt Weiss (Stoptech engineer) and hours of conversations with Scot Gray who helped Matt with the development of their brakes for ours cars. I've also heard all the arguments of Stoptech vs. Wilwood and I think it may come down to preference, type of pads, setup, driving style, or a thousand other reasons why someone chooses one set of brakes over the other.

Are you running the "standard" Stoptech rotors and calipers or the wider rotors? Supercar Engineering wants me to try a fatter Stoptech rotor with a 1/4 in. spacer in the caliper to accommodate the bigger rotor. If I thought this would stop the cracking, I'd do it in a New York minute.

How fat are your rotors?
What are you running on the rear?
Got ducts?
What pads? (I run Carbotechs front and rear)

My braking style is to wait until the last possible second and then stand on the muthas, right up to the threshold point before the tires lock up. As I understand it, this is proper braking procedure, but it sure does play havoc with lesser brakes.

My brakes work. I outbraked an M3 from 135 mph going into 5 at RA. I was carrying about 20 more mph than him (plus a 230 lb passenger) when I did it, so the Stoptechs certainly stop the car. But they crack.

My AWD car probably weighs 1,000 lb more than yours.
Maybe that's why your brakes last and mine don't.
Maybe Stoptech hasn't taken the extra weight into account.
Maybe if I did some serious weight reduction, the problem would lessen.

Still, you'd think that the brake vendors would have a solution somewhere for heavier AWD cars.

Rich
 
I'm running the 328x28 rotors, and OEM rear brakes with slotted rotors (no need for bigger rears on FWD).

This year so far, no ducts with no problems. Pads are Porterfield Carbon Kevlar R4E. I tried Hawk Blues and found myself locking up all the time. The Hawks also chew rotors up real quick.

As far as actual braking is concerned, I don't jump on the brakes, it's more a quick almost mechanical fluid motion (what ever that means)? I can't tell you how many drivers have come up to me after a race and said that it seemed like forever that I waited to brake before the turns. They asked if I had a switch in the car that I used to "play brake light games". When you're out braking a 600 hp Rolex 996 Porsche with eight piston rotors and a professional driver it just makes me smile.

The weight difference between our cars is a biggy, even with quicker entrance speeds. At Cal Speedway at speeds in access of 150mph on the oval going down to 40mph, making a parking lot turn on to the road course is insane. I do a lot of passing there and I've also spun out at least a half dozen times there to boot.

Scot Gray's AWD is probably heavier than your car with an extra 100hp. He'll chew up a rotor before it'll crack, and that's what has me puzzled about your situation. Scot also uses Hawk Blues and gets free rotors (the perks of working with Stoptech).

As far a more weight reduction on your car, wouldn't that knock you up a class?
 
Slow old poop said:
The Stoptechs lasted all season, probably because I had them cryo-treated. They are barely worn. Until this one cracked, I was planning to keep running on 'em. $240 for the outer rotor ring is an outrageous price. This is my 4th rotor, so that means I'll have spent $1,000 on replacement rotors, about 2X what they should cost.

I took a look at TCE (http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/cgi-bin/brakes/cginews.pl?record=14)
They have 13 in. front rotors, 12 in. rear rotors, and Forged Superlite Calipers. Do we know anybody who runs these brakes on a DSM road race car?

Are they as good as Stoptechs? Better? About the same?
Anybody actually dealt with "Todd"?

Rich
Rich, I'm running the TCE road race kit with 13" rotors up front. I don't have the cash for the rear kit yet but will eventually get that too. I plan on using some race pads in the back and hope that will be enough for now. I just went through the base pad that comes with the TCE kit and will be going with something more aggressive next time. The car stops, that's for sure. I can't compare them to Stoptechs though. I imagine their fairly comparable. I figured replacement rotors into my decision - the Wilwood rotors are cheaper to replace ($158 for the 13x1.10 rotors).

Todd has more kits for the DSM market than any other vendor and he's got a pretty damned good reputation. He helped me decide what I needed based on the type of racing I planned to do and my setup.
 
Greg Collier said:
As far a more weight reduction on your car, wouldn't that knock you up a class?

I don't have the results in front of me, but as I recall, I was 5th fastest on Saturday. The only cars that beat me bad were three TTU cars. Two TTAs only had me by a second or so. It might not be too bad moving up to TTA if it would stop my brake problems.

Rich
 
I've got TCE's 13" kit with 1.25" thick rotors, and with any wheel that would fit an EVO I could still get a 1.375 rotor in there. I can't compare rotor durability, as I'm not that fast yet, but you have said that you had good luck with Coleman rotors in the past, and that's what comes with a TCE kit. Maybe Todd could hook you up with a hat/rotor combo that would work with your current calipers?
 
Here are some photos, courtesy of t2mike222 from the NASA Forum.
In one of them, he caught me carrying a passenger (Little Dan) with the window up

Rich
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Rich, CONGRATS on a BIG WIN! :thumb:

Slow old poop said:
Are you running the "standard" Stoptech rotors and calipers or the wider rotors? Supercar Engineering wants me to try a fatter Stoptech rotor with a 1/4 in. spacer in the caliper to accommodate the bigger rotor. If I thought this would stop the cracking, I'd do it in a New York minute.
Your 328x28mm wide rotors have a 16.5 mm air gap. That is the same air gap that the 332x32 rotors have, and only 0.5 narrower than my 3/S 355x32 rotors. What does that mean? The 328x28mm rotors are the thinnest of the bunch. They have less metal in them and are made for lighter cars, or a lighter use.

They do work well on the fast World Challenge Touring cars, but those weigh ~2,500-2,600 lbs. How much does your car weigh?

I could make an upgrade kit to install 328x35mm rotors on your car. Same air gap but whole 7 mm more metal. Similar 314x35mm rotors worked wonders on my 3800 lbs 3/S at Road America 3 years ago with less agressive pads. I ran the same lap 2:42 lap times and used the brakes as much as I wanted to.

I will have to come up with pricing for this upgrade. If it is just a one-off it will be a custom (read - more than the price of metal), but I am wondering if others will be interested, this way we could spread the cost.

Philip
 
Supercar1 said:
Your 328x28mm wide rotors have a 16.5 mm air gap. That is the same air gap that the 332x32 rotors have, and only 0.5 narrower than my 3/S 355x32 rotors. What does that mean? The 328x28mm rotors are the thinnest of the bunch. They have less metal in them and are made for lighter cars, or a lighter use. They do work well on the fast World Challenge Touring cars, but those weigh ~2,500-2,600 lbs. How much does your car weigh?

I am guessing I'm about 3,000+ lb. Greg Collier, who has no problem with his Stoptechs, weighs in at 2100 lb. You may have hit upon the reason I am cracking rotors: The Stoptech rotors are too thin for an AWD car.

Supercar1 said:
I could make an upgrade kit to install 328x35mm rotors on your car. Same air gap but whole 7 mm more metal. Similar 314x35mm rotors worked wonders on my 3800 lbs 3/S at Road America 3 years ago with less agressive pads. I ran the same lap 2:42 lap times and used the brakes as much as I wanted to.

Does the upgrade kit include spacers for the caliper?

(Plug: I buy as much stuff as I can from Supercar Engineering. He doesn't carry a lot of DSM parts, but I am working on convincing him that DSMs are an up-and-coming group of racers, all potential customers. Philip is a chassis engineer at one of the Big Three auto companies, a data acquisition engineer for a pro race team, and a ferocious 3000GT HPDE driver, so he knows whereof he speaks. If we can get him interested in developing the same kinds of parts for DSMs that he designed for 3000GTs, we will have us a road race parts supplier! )

Supercar1 said:
I will have to come up with pricing for this upgrade. If it is just a one-off it will be a custom (read - more than the price of metal), but I am wondering if others will be interested, this way we could spread the cost. Philip

I guess we will see if this post generates any response from Stoptech users, or DSMers who are looking for a good brake upgrade.

If it's a one-off, what do I do if I need another rotor in the future?

And what are you doing about a rear brake upgrade?

Rich
 
This is part of the reason I like to recommend TCE - they already have kits like this available. Granted, their thickest rotor is 1.25" (about 32mm), but they have all the brackets needed for the thicker rotor already made up. You should call Todd just to see if he has something already made up so that the cost is lower. If he doesn't have a solution, go with the custom solution Philip is offering.

Sounds like we'll have to get Philip onboard as a Supporting Vendor here soon so we can publicly discuss pricing/availability/etc freely like our other vendors.
 
1.) Philip @ http://www.supercar-engineering.com/sc2/ is frankly my first stop for ANYTHING I need for my track car. If he does not carry it, he can at an unbelievable price, you just have to ask. Philip has designed my brakes (Brembos), sold me my suspension (JIC FLT-A2's) as well as engineered small improvements, my AEM EMS. my Sparco 5 points... the list goes on and on. If you have a track car... call Philip, you won't regret it. I would love to see him develop more parts for DSM's.


2. Here is a fixed link to Rich's pictures... a little higher resolution.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top