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Building a Track car from scratch.

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drivemusicnow

15+ Year Contributor
1,444
30
Nov 15, 2004
Germany, Europe
I've told parts of the story at times in other threads, but I really want a place for me to put all of my thoughts, and for other people who may be thinking about doing the same type of thing. This is going to be a few very long posts, (I'm at work so they likely won't all be in a row either) I will be making "how-tos" with pictures for a lot of the things I talk about in this thread, but progress goes slowly, especially with my job requiring 60+ hours a week from me. So here goes.

My Dad purchased this Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX brand new back in 1993. He drove it for 10 years straight with very few problems. Clutch had to be replaced once, normal wear parts, and a timing belt broke. (He brought the car in and asked our mechanic about an oil leak coming from the timing belt area, the mechanic said it wasn't a problem, timing belt broke 2 weeks later... we don't use that mechanic anymore). My sister then got the car and beat the living crap out of it for 2 years while she was at college. (she only got into 2 minor accidents with the thing :notgood: ) Then it was my turn. Ever since highschool I have wanted to take that car and build it to be a "race car". So, just under 3 years ago I convinced my parents to let me take the car (it was running kind of badly) and do with it what I wanted.

Original plans were some bolt ons, good tuning equip, a re-ring/re-hone, new brake pads, and lots of track time. Well, like all things, the engine was worse than I thought. My sister had run it low on oil, and for a short period of time the engine was starving for oil. It "crank walked" due to this oil shortage, and tore up the bearings. I had saved up about 2$K for this project, and was at a standstill because I didn't want to spend all of that on the motor. Essentially, I took some time to save up, buy parts as I found good deals on them, and have since changed my plans into an "all out streetable track car". Like Ludachris, I'm not going to be able to buy a tow vehicle and trailor, so I will have to drive to the track.

Most of the work in planning out a full car build is in determining a budget, figuring out which parts you can “skimp” on and which parts you can’t. Being able to make a decision between different brands/models of a part to determine which will better suit your needs and budget is not easy. I made an Excel spreadsheet to help me figure out an overall planned budget, and then keep track of my spending (i.e. actual cost) It also helped me organize where I was going to purchase things from, and what I was still undecided on. I HIGHLY recommend organizing your thoughts and budget like this as it is invaluable later on. (although the number at the bottom can be a bit depressing)

When I had FIRST figured out what I wanted to do to the car for some open lapping/HPDE events my total budget was about $3000. After making some discoveries, (like the oil starved motor) and deciding that it is better to spend money in the first place, rather than having to purchase something multiple times, or pay for hospital bills because it failed spectacularly, and deciding to go “all the way” with the car etc. As of now (and has been for about 2 years) the “end budget” is just under $14,000. This includes everything from wiring to suspension to a helmet. (and license costs). By the end of the year, I should have the car running, with only a few large things left to purchase and install. (Had I not run into some financial issues late last year, I’d be much further along than I am. As it is, I’ve made extremely slow progress, but I’m okay with that.

As you can tell, this has been a long and detailed process, and I still have a ways to go. In the next few posts I’ll go over some of the part decisions (system by system) that I’ve made, the stripping/prep of the chassis, and the labor intensive things that I’ve done. I’ll then discuss what I still have left to do, and post links to the How to’s that I have/will be putting together.


Please feel free to comment, post questions, point out things I’ve forgotten, and add your experiences to the things I am going to talk about. (don’t be afraid to go “off topic”) I will probably be posting some questions here as well, as I may potentially run into some problems installing certain things.
 
First things First, The Engine.

The car is a 93, so it comes from the factory with a 7 bolt 4G63. After originally planning for Mitch at Engintecs (www.engintecs.com) to do a minor rebuild and some head work on my engine, he called me up with some bad news. The cylinders were out of round, and I would need to bore the engine, as well as get new pistons, rings, etc. an extra 600$ on what I thought would only be about 800$ re-ring/hone and new gaskets. I told him to go ahead and tear the rest of it down and let me know how much bringing it back to "like new" stock condition would be.

Then he called me up and gave me the really bad news. The motor had starved for oil, and the block and crank were scrap. Suddenly things got a lot more expensive. I held off for a while, but slowly worked with him to build a 2.4 liter stroker with a built head. (ironically what I talked to Mitch about was similar to the motor that now resides in Greg Collier's car ;-)) End price, over $5k. The motor would have been amazing, but at the time I was just out of highschool and college is expensive. I decided this was out of my budget, and would have him build that motor at a later date. (he still has one of my 7 bolt head actually). This is when I really started taking a look at what my plans for the car were, and started working on a plan for the direction I was going to go.

Back to square 1. After tossing around a bunch of ideas including a junkyard 2.4 (stock and built) a 2.0 liter cheap rebuild, a built 2.0, etc... I finally found an idea I didn't mind. My buddy had a lot of leftover parts (including a chassis, head, block, crank, and many other parts) as he was sick of blowing up DSMs and decided to stick with lifted jeeps. I bought all of it off him for pretty cheap, sold some, kept some, and am using some to build my motor. It's a 2.3 liter stroker 7 bolt, using the following parts list:

Parts:

Block
Head
JE Pistons, Stroker
Crank (radiused and chamfered)
Mitsu MLS headgasket
Timing belt
New Idler pulley
Tensioner pulley
Timing belt tensioner
New OEM oil pump with factory BS removal
New Knock Sensor
New OEM crank dampner
New bolts for oil pump, water pump, flywheel, pressure plate, oil pan, etc.
Water pump
Full Fel-Pro Gasket Set
ARP Head studs
Stock Main bolts
New Seals
ACL coated bearings (rod and Main)
Eagle H Beam Rods
All the machine work was done by a shop down in Bloomington IL. End price: just over 2.2K$

I will have Mitch build a motor for me, however at this time I couldn't afford the premium that his level of skill demands. I would still highly recommend him, as he spent a lot of time working with me, advising me, and just generally being a great person, and excellent professional.

I will be getting everything back in the next week or two, and will assemble the long block at that time.

*how to's to add: none

I'll will be taking lots of pictures of the assembly as it happens. Key things to keep in mind:
1) don't rely on old parts. My crank dampner looks okay, but I'm buying a new one. Knock sensor as well. These are parts that can save your investment (motor) by operating correctly, therefore, DON'T SKIMP HERE.
2) Be willing to pay for quality machining. I almost made the possibly bad decision to let a local machine shop that does mostly large diesel motors work on my engine. I made a better choice and went with a race shop that is familiar with them.
3) Research... research... research. Different things work for different applications, ask people who are "in the know" any questions you may have.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Now that we have an engine…

Here is how I chose to properly control, fuel, and monitor it.

DSMLink
Zeitronix Wideband O2, with EGT, and electronic boost/vaccuum
VDO boost, oil temp, trans temp, and oil pressure gauges
Laptop
Walbro 255hp
Fabricating a surge tank IN the stock gas tank
-6AN fuel feed line from tank, through the Mr. Gasket filter (Golan) to the fuel rail
850 CC Injectors
Bolt on AFPR (full throttle
Fuel pressure gauge

DSMLink seems like the best solution to me as far as cost effectiveness. The logging ability, as well as the amount of control is extremely helpful, and while it doesn’t offer all the features of a standalone, it has enough control that I should be able to have the car run exactly how I want.

I’m also a big believer in making sure the driver knows what’s going on. The wideband, boost, egt, oil temp, oil pressure, and trans temp sensors are all things that are necessary to monitor. I’m also wiring all of the sensors such that when one reads below or above a specific value (I will have to test this to find out what the sender’s resistance is compared to the numerical value it represents) it will light up an LED I’m placing at the top of the dash. This light will be labeled “shut it down dumbass” which will give me a single point of “oh shit” to make sure I don’t miss a low or high gauge reading. I’m going to add a Hobbs pressure switch to the coolant system such that if I lose water pressure it will light up as well.

I’m looking at hard-mounting the laptop to the cage (when I install that) however I have not been able to check the SCCA/NASA legality of this. I believe I can come up with some solution to allow me to use the Laptop screen as space for other values such as AFR, water temp, EGT, knock, etc. while being able to log on track.

I broke the fuel line coming out of the fuel pump assembly trying to remove it, so I had to buy another one of those. Then 3 of the studs that held the old fuel pump assembly down broke off. I’m going to be running new studs up through the top of the tank, and creating a “swirl tank” around the fuel pump assembly to eliminate fuel starvation. I am also running new lines to the fuel rail (I also broke the rusted fuel feed hard line.) I’m replacing the system with top quality Earls SS lines, and AN fittings to go from the fuel pump assembly, to the new Golan filter, and then to the fuel rail. This will eliminate the largest restriction in the system (the stock fuel filter) as well as updating everything to top quality, parts that won’t leak or cause a safety problem.

After spending some time and justifying a maximum of approx 55 lbs per min of airflow, I worked backwards. This isn’t that hard to calculate and I will add a short How To about this later. With 120% safety factors, and a found that the 850 injectors, and walbro 255hp (is wired at approx 14 volts, but calculated at worst case scenario 12) would work, and be slightly on the safe side. (assumed 20psi boost, which is approx 63 psi fuel pressure)

*How to's to add Fuel delivery math, modifying the fuel pump assembly, replacing studs in the tank, "dumbass light" wiring,

Key Things to keep in mind:
1) set your goals high, and then add about 20% more on to that. People always say they'll be okay with something, and then a year down the road decide they want more. Build the systems to support more than you need, and then when you eventually bring it up to that level, you don't have to buy parts twice
2) The above goes double for fuel delivery, and engine management.
3) Don't get angry when you break things. If it broke, it needed replacement anyway.
 
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