Need some help PLEASE!!!![Something's busted. We don't know what.]

[noyorol_1]

OK I posted this in the drivetrain area and got no answer.So I hope that someone can help me in here.Now all i really need to know is can I weld my Wheel bearing braket back to the motor or will I be risking the chance of messing something up? It has been welded to the block before but I just want to make sure its safe to do it again.

 

[Doug99RS]

While I didn't read this thread in the drivetrain area, I did stumble across it here. I think the reason why you didn't get a response may be due to the nature of your question. You're asking about a "Wheel bearing" that mounts to the "Engine". There are no wheel bearings that mount directly to the engine. So... that's one reason why no one answered it.

Regardless of what it is... you shouldn't WELD anything to the block. You should make use of existing holes when mounting things to it. You can make brackets that have tons of welding on it all you like that then mount to the block or whatever. The engine is not something you want to start welding on regardless of who did it and where it was done.

Next if it is a bearing you're asking about, it should not be heated for the purpose of re-using it. Heat will destroy most bearings if not properly distributed and sometimes even when it's done evenly. Heat is used to remove bearings and other components when they are not going to be re-used.

Can you get pictures or a better description of what your question is about?
Doug

 

[GTM]

Originally posted by Doug99RS
While I didn't read this thread in the drivetrain area, I did stumble across it here. I think the reason why you didn't get a response may be due to the nature of your question. You're asking about a "Wheel bearing" that mounts to the "Engine". There are no wheel bearings that mount directly to the engine. So... that's one reason why no one answered it.
...
Can you get pictures or a better description of what your question is about?

I went and looked at the member's last 10 posts and that didn't help much.

As best I can tell he had an inner CV joint problem. It's not the engine block but if I understand correctly it's the side carrier bearing housing on the diff which is damaged. This is a machined part which must hold the bearing in position and shims calculated to establish the proper gear load. If it's a replacable part it will still need to be checked with the unit out of the car and on the bench. It doesn't sound good, more like a new or used final drive replacement.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[BUCK]

Enjoy your new Milwaukee Close Quarters Drill - I do...

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=90760&highlight=milwaukee

& NO - that's HELL NO - DON'T weld the CENTER BEARING to the freaking block~!

 

[GTM]

Originally posted by BUCK
Enjoy your new Milwaukee Close Quarters Drill - I do...

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=90760&highlight=milwaukee

& NO - that's HELL NO - DON'T weld the CENTER BEARING to the freaking block~!

Help me out here, is it the side carier bearing?

Cheers,
GTM

 

[BUCK]

GTM: Help me out here, is it the side carrier bearing?

That's exactly what I would call it - the DSM manual calls it the Center Bearing Bracket (containing the Center Bearing of course)...

noyorol tried - he was in the freaking ballpark - But it's getting where helping someone is getting tougher & tougher - It takes 4 posts to finish de-coding the errant Nomenclature... Then you had the guy today that comes on and posts: I have a MASSIVE OIL LEAK - WHERE IS IT? That's it - not another clue as to where, what, Gimme a break! It's at a comical point on these boards...

 

[GTM]

Originally posted by BUCK
That's exactly what I would call it
...
It takes 4 posts to finish de-coding the errant Nomenclature... Then you had the guy today that comes on and posts: I have a MASSIVE OIL LEAK - WHERE IS IT? That's it - not another clue as to where, what, Gimme a break! It's at a comical point on these boards...

Ok on description. Would Locktite(sp) bearing compound hold the bearing in the housing or do they crack to the point they can't be fixed. Book didn't show me enough to comprehend much and my son doesn't have AWD. Is it CV or propshaft to the rear?
.........................

Must have been the same guy that I asked earlier in the week if we were going to play 20 questions with his oil leak. Someone told him to put newspaper down but that was the end of it. They did away with "home economics" for girls and auto shop for boys so this is what we got.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[BUCK]

The bearings are hefty & pressed in the hefty Cast Iron Bracket - I doubt SERIOUSLY he's cracked the bracket - He's wrung off one of the "special bolts" - (they have a dowel like boss on the end of the bolt) in the Block that hold the Bracket to the Block - it is a bi***, as my thread explains... You have to unbolt the Center Bearing Bracket on AWD to drop Oil Pan - or change Tranny Half Shaft Seal - my bet is that's what he's into...

 

[GTM]

Originally posted by BUCK
The bearings are hefty & pressed in the hefty Cast Iron Bracket -
...
You have to unbolt the Center Bearing Bracket on AWD to drop Oil Pan - or change Tranny Half Shaft Seal - my bet is that's what he's into...

So the issue is in fact not the bearing carrier but the main transfer case bevel gear housing which I presume is aluminum and you can't get there from here.

What caused the bolt to break? Could it have been avoided by removing all the others and then a good block of hardwood, 5 lb sledge and working the bolt back and forth?

Cheers,
GTM

 

[BUCK]

So the issue is in fact not the bearing carrier but the main transfer case bevel gear housing

NO - NO - NO - it's an AWD thing - there's a shaft from Tranny to Center Bearing Bracket that bolts onto back of motor at bottom of AC Compressor bracket - The Driver's side CV shaft slips onto spline of that shaft at Center Bearing.

 

[GTM]

Originally posted by BUCK
NO - NO - NO - it's an AWD thing
...

I've a 1990 factory manual, have a section number where they detail the part or repair? Not a critical issue, just bugs me that I can't find it. I know my '95 Caravan AWD should have similar pieces but don't remember the nomenclature.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[BUCK]

It's in one of the first few Sections - where the Front axles are - NOT in the Tranny sections at the back.

 

[noyorol_1]

Sorry it took so ong for me to get back.In the haynes manual it is called a wheel bearing braket but all it really does is upport the joint.Now here is what happen I was driving to work and I heard a bid snap like sound.So got to work put it up on the lift and notice the the braket that was welded to the weld broke a broke my cv axsel.Now I looked for holes and found none at all.Now I started thinking well since it was weldeed to the block before why not do it again.It does move a foot forard and back do to the bracket smacking the motor and fire wall.One last thing is that bracket really needed? Thanks guys

 

[ArticNemesis]

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Is that what you are referring too.? Got it off of the vfaq 2g AWD clutch swap faq. (Ignore the circles, I am referring to the mount / bearing mounted to the block on the left of the image.)

I am assuming that you said they welded the mount to the block? Why??? (I guess you wouldn't know.) It sucks that they welded over the holes..

edit: http://www.vfaq.com/mods/clutch-2G.html
That is the link for the page.

 

[Defiant]

Originally posted by BUCK
But it's getting where helping someone is getting tougher & tougher - It takes 4 posts to finish de-coding the errant Nomenclature... Then you had the guy today that comes on and posts: I have a MASSIVE OIL LEAK - WHERE IS IT? That's it - not another clue as to where, what, Gimme a break! It's at a comical point on these boards...

At least the mods are able to stay cheery about it, like Capone explaining the strategic secrets of baseball...

I _still_ have no idea what this one could be about.

c'est la guerre.

 

[BUCK]

Great pix ArxticNemesis - well done...

Originally posted by noyorol_1
Sorry it took so ong for me to get back.In the haynes manual it is called a wheel bearing braket but all it really does is upport the joint.Now here is what happen I was driving to work and I heard a bid snap like sound.So got to work put it up on the lift and notice the the braket that was welded to the weld broke a broke my cv axsel.Now I looked for holes and found none at all.Now I started thinking well since it was weldeed to the block before why not do it again.It does move a foot forard and back do to the bracket smacking the motor and fire wall.One last thing is that bracket really needed? Thanks guys

You ABSOLUTELY need that bearing & bracket - It's POSSIBLE the seals are bad & bearing contaminated which is what may have led to weld fatiguing out - You have to get this fixed - Please don't drive with it like that - It could spin around, knock a hole in Oil Pan - Lock up a wheel, kill Tranny. kill You, etc, etc. Don't you reckon the old bolt holes are THERE - but just rusted over with wrung off bolts in them? One of the bolts goes thru the AC Compressor Bracket & Center Bearing bracket.

IF - you weld it - & I'm NOT reccommending that because that bearing has to work perfectly AND you must remove this bracket for several Maintenance evolutions - Unground the ground wire off the Transistor Pack & Coil Pack & pull both cables off the Battery - probably should pull the Alternator too as I think it grounds via the Mounting bolts...

 

[noyorol_1]

Articnemesis thats exactly what I am talking about.maybe that would shead some more light aout getting some help on it now.

 

[ArticNemesis]

Then read the above posts from Buck, b/c you don't want to drive without that attached.. He know's what he is talking about. It would be better if you could find the old bolt holes / retap it vs. welding it.

 

[noyorol_1]

What if I went to U wrench it and bought everything I needed for the bolts to bolt back up? And what would I need to do that?

 

[Doug99RS]

You could always just remove the transfer case, get a left axle for a FWD and just become a FWD it all else fails. If I'm not mistaken, all of the FWD's have different length shafts anyways.

You may need to buy that new whole new bearing assembly. The one for a 96 is about $60.00 and the part number is MB526956 that part number was used from 1989 up until 2000 so it's a good chance it didn't change for yours. Double check that with the parts people.

That thing is supposed to be bolted up and not welded. It broke because of a poor weld or simply because it was welded period. You'll have to get under the car and physically inspect the threads (if any) that this bearing/bracket assembly mount to. You may need to replace that component too.
Doug

 

[noyorol_1]

So run that by me one more time.What all would I need to make it a front wheel drive.I would like to kepp it a awd but what ever is cheaper to fix it.

 

[BUCK]

Cheapest may be to weld the bastard back on there - Hoping the bearing isn't ****ed & hoping you don't **** any Electronics with the welder.

Unground the ground wire off the Transistor Pack & Coil Pack & pull both cables off the Battery - probably should pull the Alternator too as I think it grounds via the Mounting bolts...

 

[Tevenor]

YOU NEVER TOLD US WHY YOU NEED TO WELD THIS BRACKET ON THE BLOCK IN THE FIRST PLACE! BROKEN BOLT?

You do not want to run FWD. It's not cheaper than fixing this properly and it is more work in my opinion.

 

[noyorol_1]

Well that right now is goimg to be plan B. Now I am going to a juk yard and pull evrything I need off to get it to bolt up. Hey could I drill holes to make it fit or what? Well I am going to make one more look at it before I go to work.I will fill evryone in later thanks.

 

[noyorol_1]

YOU NEVER TOLD US WHY YOU NEED TO WELD THIS BRACKET ON THE BLOCK IN THE FIRST PLACE! BROKEN BOLT?


Well It was welded to the block.Now the weld broke and broke my CV Axsel.I replaced the axsel and discovered the problem with the braket.Now I searched high and low for the holes and none were to be found.The car will only go like a foot forward and backwards. Do to the bracket being free.