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HELP: car wont start no clue why

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DeviantClipse

15+ Year Contributor
418
0
May 18, 2003
New york city, New York
alrighty this is long but here it is. i pulled my car in the garage for the winter to clean some stuff and crap. well i pull my battery,intake,coil,plug wires, battery tray, redo my grounds, and pull my washer fluid resavor(sp???). so i put it all back in cept for the parts i pulled, and now she wont start. sounds like she wont combust. but when i put the keys on ON a cel flashes 1,1,4 really fast, then 5 really fast. i have no clue why she wont start any ideas. i have spark and fuel and air. i really need help.


thanks.
phil
 
ya tripled checked everthing. i pulled the plugs and they are pretty wet with fuel so i let the chamber and plugs dry out. try it nothign just spins with no sound of combustion. i have no clue what it could be. any ideas on the cel. im totally out of ideas

thanks
phil
 
If you have hooked everything back up correctly then try spraying some ether, or some quick start spray onto your intake. That might help. You might have fouled your plugs, oh and check your timing as well.
 
Sounds like you're getting gas, but either no spark or no air.
Assuming your idle air bypass works, you should get air even if the throttle plate was stuck shut. (on a carb. car, it will not start if the plate is stuck shut, seen it many times in my younger days--my pa liked to use a piece of hay-baling wire to keep the plate from closing)
Assuming the car was running before you disassembled it, I would guess something is awry very close to the coils--just to be sure, you could remove them again, take a closer look & then re-install.
 
Originally posted by mitsutuner
Sounds like you're getting gas, but either no spark or no air.
...
my pa liked to use a piece of hay-baling wire to keep the plate from closing)
...

Please people, don't stick metal objects down spark plug holes or in the intake. Use a wooden dowel (a string taped to a pencil if you got nothing else). You slam one of these big throttle plates down on a piece of bailing wire it's going to dent and bend something expensive to replace.

Cheers,
GTM
 
well heres a undate.. i had one of my well knowledged friends over and we checked if i was getting fuel. pulled the plugs and tryied turning it and no fuel is spitting from the holes only air so im thinkin it could be the fuel pump(118,000 on it and 3 run emptys LOL) anyone think that also

thanks
phil
 
It could just be a bad o-ring on your fuel pump assembly, they wear which in turns doesnt let the fuel lines hold very little if any (various from case to case) pressure...so my advice is replace your rubber o-ring from the fuel pump to the fuel line (its cake) and cheap--good luck
 
Originally posted by DeviantClipse
well heres a undate.. i had one of my well knowledged friends over and we checked if i was getting fuel. pulled the plugs and tryied turning it and no fuel is spitting from the holes only air so im thinkin it could be the fuel pump(118,000 on it and 3 run emptys LOL) anyone think that also

Why don't you pull a fuel line off and check for pressure? You will need a catch container and must observe all known shop practices to prevent fire. When you turn the key on it should give a shot of fuel. If you disconnect the starter solenoid and turn the key to start you should have a continuous flow of fuel.

Have you confirmed that you have spark to the correct cylr?


Cheers,
GTM
 
DOH!, sorry about the hay-baling wire comment, didn't think anyone would be distractedby it--was referring to older carburetted cars--use the wire on the linkage to keep it from completelety closing the plate.
Forget all that for fuel-injection cars, they have a seperate opening that allows air into the motor when the plate is closed, the throttle bypass.
My point was, in this case you have gas & most likely air & most likely NO SPARK, especially in light of the fact that the ignition components were disassembled since the car was last running.
A timing light could be used to verify the presence of spark, or the more common method of holding the spark plug end of the spark plug wire near any grounded metal part of the motor while a trusted friend cranks the starter & watch for the spark to jump from the end of the wire. You should verify that you have spark before you go chasing the fuel pump.
 
well we check all plugs wires for spark and had it then put plugs in the wires and checked for spark again and i did have it. so im goin to try taking a fuel line off and replaceing that o ring b/c it prolly needs it then ill update from there. thanks for the help

thanks
phil
 
Glad to hear about the spark, it seems like you're getting enough gas to at least sputter, misfire/run on 2 cyl. or something--did you by any chance play pyro & try to burn the rags that you wiped up the gas with? Sure, you laugh, but sometimes the gas has has water in it & won't burn.
I forgot earlier to ask a very imp. Q., just how cold is/was it where you are? & just for grins, did you look in the TB & move the throttle plate by hand?
 
Originally posted by mitsutuner

...
Sure, you laugh, but sometimes the gas has has water in it & won't burn.
I forgot earlier to ask a very imp. Q., just how cold is/was it where you are? & just for grins, did you look in the TB & move the throttle plate by hand?

Actually most Japanese fuel filters from the mid '70s have had the ability to stop water at the molecule level and that includes both carb and F/I engines. Sure if they get completely full it will blow a hole through the filter membrane and water will pass. On the stainless steel or aluminum filters I like to reverse flush them into a clean container to see just what has been collected. If you buy gas from the same station and get a load of water which does damage including replacement of the filter, pump, injectors you can collect damages from the station. Just like cars they too have filters which must be cleaned / serviced and unless they can prove it was done just before you bought fuel you stand a good chance of collecting. People are a lot more fussy about changing oil filter than changing fuel filters.

I also don't like to get fuel while I see the tanker truck dumping fuel into the tank for it stirs up all the crud at the bottom which the pump pick up.

Cheers,
GTM
 
well back. should my fuel pump run with the key on the on ON. b/c mine isnt i can here it pump when im cranking and for about 1 sec after crankin but nothign before. and its like 50 degrees outside for whoever asked that. and ya we manually moved the butterfly on the trottle body.


i also asked somethign about that cel does that really mean anything when its on the On postion. it flahes like 1.....1......1111.....11111 then stops till i put it back on the on postion.

thanks
phil
 
Originally posted by DeviantClipse
well back. should my fuel pump run with the key on the on ON. b/c mine isnt i can here it pump when im cranking and for about 1 sec after crankin but nothign before.
...
i also asked somethign about that cel does that really mean anything when its on the On postion. it flahes like 1.....1......1111.....11111 then stops till i put it back on the on postion.

The fuel pump is only permitted to be on in the initial key on position for about 1 second and then it times out, in crank mode it runs continuously. Once the engine is started the oil pressure or charging system will keep it running on most cars. In the case of DSM it seems it's only the oil pressure for when the Alt belt breaks the engine does not stop. If you want to do a pressure check you can pull the starter solenoid wire off and hold the crank position which engages the pump relay. There is another method involving removing a relay, installing a jumper and groundin another terminal.

Sorry I don't have CEL codes but you may be able to find them here or on Vfaq.

Cheers,
GTM
 
WELL i finally figured out what it is. i have a disconnected evac line and i put it back on and BAM it started. but i really appricate all the help you all gave me

thanks a mil
phil
 
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