Broken Exhaust Stud/Screw Removal [Merged 8-8] bolt fastener threads

RoasT BeeF · 01-19-2003, 08:52 PM

I have two bolts that are broken off inside the head that bolt the exhaust manifold up. Any ideas for getting them out without messing up the threads? I was going to try drilling them out but I cant even get my drill in there. I am also going to need to take the power steering pump off to get to one of them. Anybody done any of this?

Tech Article:
Broken Exhaust Stud Removal

BUCK · 01-19-2003, 08:59 PM

Pull the radiator, get some cobalt tipped drill bits, center punch the CENTER of the bolt before you drill & for God sake be careful.

awd4g63 · 01-19-2003, 09:28 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by BUCK
Pull the radiator, get some cobalt tipped drill bits, center punch the CENTER of the bolt before you drill & for God sake be careful.

Exactly what he said... it might be a good idea to contact your local parts store and make sure you have the right tools... also you could ask for some pointers from them, as I'm sure that at least someone there has done it before.

steve · 01-19-2003, 10:47 PM

Somebody a while back reminded me of an old trick for drilling straight into things like studs. Use a block of wood (or better, metal) at least 2x the diameter of the bit thick and drill it square then position in over the stud and it will keep you square when drilling into the stud.
Don't forget to put a depth stop on the bit. You really don't want to drill through the stud and into the head

Steve

Talondsm18g · 01-19-2003, 11:22 PM

pic up a set of EZ-outs basically reverse threaded taps. Drill the hole and put it in like a tap andit will break the bolt lose no prob

Talondsm18g · 01-19-2003, 11:23 PM

also called screw extractors the technical term i believe

Defiant · 01-20-2003, 09:38 AM

Use some heat, the aluminum will expand more than the steel. Apply Liquid Wrench or the like, and hammer lightly on the end of the stud- not enough to mushroom it out, but enough to get vibration through the piece and help the penetrant. If the head's off, it's routine work for a machine shop. The new Craftsman Drill-Out Power Extractors are pretty slick, but I don't know that they'll work as well on a broken flange stud as the traditional spiral-fluted type. When you center punch the stud to drill it, as others have said make SURE you're as close to centered and straight as you can be. Use a bit of thread lube on the replacement stud or bolt.

GreddySpyder · 02-14-2003, 07:05 PM

I was installing energy suspension motor mount inserts yesterday and the front insert went in without a hitch. Long story short, I broke one of the mounting bolts on the rear motor mount. From where the bolt is, it is pretty much impossible to get to the bottom of it to try to use some vice grips or something to twist it out. What is the best way to remove the broken bolt while working from the top without messing up the threads in the hole?

GTM · 02-14-2003, 10:02 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by GreddySpyder
...

Long story short, I broke one of the mounting bolts on the rear motor mount.
...
What is the best way to remove the broken bolt while working from the top without messing up the threads in the hole?

If there are enough threads exposed to get 2 nuts on it you can try locking each nut against the other and try undoing with a wrench on the lower most.

Is the bolt on a removable piece or in the block?
If it's removable then pull the part so it can be done on the bench.

If it the block and you are not prepared to pull the engine then you need to call a machine shop that has access to some very expensive radio frequency extraction equipment. Essentially it's tuned to the paticular metal frequency and disentegrates the bolt something like the opposite of arc welding. This is mostly used in the aircraft and space industry to save very expensive parts from conditions like this. Expect to pay $100 if they can get their equipment to the problem. Don't hot rod the car or you run the risk of breaking the other bolts.

Cheers,
GTM

mitsugsx95 · 02-15-2003, 02:08 PM

How are you suppose to fix a broken stud in the head. I was putting my manifold back on and one of the studs broke off. I really dont want to be driving around with one of the studs/nut connected to the manifold. Its broken on the runner #4, closest to the IC. And I torqued the others down to spec, but should you re-torque them after the engine is hot?

bobgeorge · 02-15-2003, 02:38 PM

is it out of the head or is is broke off up into the head? that is if you take the manny off,does it stick out any?

mitsugsx95 · 02-15-2003, 02:56 PM

The stud broke in half. One half is in the head, and the other broke off with the nut. It doesnt stick out either, its pretty fluch with teh head.

bobgeorge · 02-15-2003, 03:04 PM

looks like it is time tap and die set,i had one break but some of it was hanging out so i went to sears and bought a stripped bolt socket set, if you do not feel safe about trying to tap it then just call around to shops and see how much it is,wish i could help you more,good luck

mitsugsx95 · 02-15-2003, 03:07 PM

would i even be able to drive the car with that bolt missing? Only one of them is broken, but all the others are solid. Would it just leak like a b####?

bobgeorge · 02-15-2003, 03:21 PM

i would not drive it to much,you can damage your valves,

GreddySpyder · 02-15-2003, 03:27 PM

Fortunately the bolt that broke is the bolt securing the motor mount to the crossbeam, not the engine itself. There are no threads exposed on the top to try locking any nuts onto. I am thinking of trying to get a metal bit drill and drill a hole into the center of the bolt, then screw another bolt into that hole and try to break it free with the help of a lot of penetrating oil.

DrZiplok · 02-15-2003, 04:21 PM

Bollocks.

I broke the #1 stud (other end from yours) off over a year ago (and botched getting it out of the head, so it's still stuck in there).

I replaced my manifold a month or so ago, with no leakage whatsoever around that area.

As long as you cleaned the sealing faces on the head and manifold, used a new gasket and torqued everything down to spec you should be fine going without it.

mitsugsx95 · 02-15-2003, 04:24 PM

im gonna try and get it out one last time. Im gonna go to menards and get a bolt exrtacter and try and get it out, but if it doesnt, i think that its bolted donw tight enough to where it wont leak. I have the RRE 4 layer manifold gasket so that kind of helped with taking some of the gap out.

GTM · 02-15-2003, 06:26 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by GreddySpyder
Fortunately the bolt that broke is the bolt securing the motor mount to the crossbeam,
...
free with the help of a lot of penetrating oil.

You would still be better off if you can remove the crossmember and work on the bench so you can get your drill running straight. Start with a small drill bit and drill through the bolt if that can be done safely. Don't select a bit that is going to break easily. The next bit will need to be specified by the "Easy-out" you buy.

You mention something about buying bits, well this is not the time or place to cut corners. As a basic rule of thumb a metal drill cuts best at stalling speed and prevents overheating. Apply enough pressure to get two curls of metal coming out continuously or slow it down.

The "Easy-out" you select will be based on the size of bolt so take that with you for establishing size. It may come with a drill or specify the correct size to use. The "Easy-out" has a tapered coarse reverse twist which you will wind down into the hole you drilled. The driven end can be either square or hex to take a socket which you probably have so buy the hex. Easy-out is a trademark but there are several on the market for removing broken studs / bolts. Use your penetrating oil before and after drilling, let is soak for a while, hit it with a hammer to shock better penetration.

Good luck. There are still 2 choices, pay someone to do the job for the tools are going to be around $15+. If you don't get the hole straight, can't get it loose then it may be possible to drill the bolt out just to the sides of the threads and put a grade 7 - 9 nut and bolt all they way through. Don't buy cheap tools for this job for if they break you are in deep do-do.

Cheers,
GTM

90 AWD · 02-15-2003, 06:41 PM

Motor mounts are overrated... dont worry about em...

I wouldnt go about removing the whole bracket first though. I would find a dremmel tool with a drill bit. I dont think a small drill will even fit.

For easy access and as much as you can get to the area from above, I would remove the UICP and battery. Drill out a small hole, just big enought for about 1/8" of the the tip of the "easy out". As you twist counter-clockwise try to hit or press downward onto the bit to force the threads of the easyout into the bolt, once the easyout has a good enough grip onto the bolt it should come out easy.

**edit** GTM what this better

bobgeorge · 02-15-2003, 10:05 PM

i know i worked on a screw for 2 days and could not get it out and went to sears.com and searched just( bolt removers )and these things came up, i wish i knew the name its like a spiral inside and you just push it on and take a socket wrench and loosen it when you turn it it grabs into the metal,and it came wright out 1st try, it was the best $20 i have ever spent, i had tried everything and it was nothing with that

90 AWD · 02-15-2003, 10:08 PM

That would work too, but that depends on if its broken off flush with the metal or has a few threads sticking out.