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Help asap, retarded idle

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4geze63

15+ Year Contributor
891
3
Nov 18, 2003
edmonton,
as of yesterday my car started to idle really bad and want to die an it would get aslo as 300 rpm at stop lights and have to keep my foot on the gas, and even when im driving it would just cut out, for example I was turning and almost hit another car because of the lose of power and majority of the steering.


while driving the car functions fine and there doesnt seem to be power loss, just when Im coasting to a stop or an stopped at lights the rpm fluctuates and gets low and dies. Could it be a clogged fuel filter?


any help would be much appreicated because I am only 18 and on a limited budget and dont want to end up fixing 10 thing and get no results.


car 128 000 km
new timingbelt balanceshaft pullys etc
stock exept for K&N w/ removed aircan,LOWER honeycomb and silencer
New Bosch platunim 4+'s
Just changed oil and filter
had injectors and fuel systems cleaned and vacuumed
electrical analysis done with no errors
91 oct fuel used
Just had boost/vac and air-fuel gauges installed if that matters @ about 9 psi running slighty rich
 
adjusting it helped my idle alot, still alittle wierd but more consistant now, the reccomended setting for my car was, tighten the screw fully then screw it out 2 full rotations which keeps it at about 750rpm.

Atfirst the screw was about 7-8 turns out instead of 2
 
hey im only 16 and know a little bit about DSMs so dont make fun if i say something stupid and wrong, my guess is why its still acting funny but more consistant is becuz ur idle is still kinda low (seems low to me) i have mine set at 1000rpm and are your wires good,the air gap in the plugs? maybe ur rotor isnt good in the distributer? but if its none of those then my guess is its the idle but if its consistant just try running it at 1000rpms at idle and see if that makes it run better at stop lights or when ur just tryin to warm up the ride alrite peace

DSMike :dsm: :thumb:
 
yah i was thinking of upping the idle alittle bit, My plugs are good, new bosch 4+'s, I going to get my fuel filter replaced and then do cap and rotors.
 
sweet yea that should help it then after the rotar and cap well just check the rotar to see if its still good cuz it could still be the wires and yea fuel pump might be it too you might wanna get fuel injector cleaner or this on thing i think its called fuel flush kit or something ive heard great responses from that and yea im sure after you move the idle up wires if bad rotar and cap and idle speed up you should be good alrite peace

DSMike :dsm: :thumb:
 
I'm in the exact same boat, however, I tried to set the BISS and it did not help, anyone have any ideas? I know troubleshooting over the the internet is not easy. I ready to rip my hair with this one! Timing is correct, new plugs/wires, fuel/air filters, new stock exhaust, I'm really stumped on this one. I've gone out and downloaded info from the 10000Answer FAQ website and still nothing. any info would be great.
 
I'm in the exact same boat, however, I tried to set the BISS and it did not help, anyone have any ideas? I know troubleshooting over the the internet is not easy. I ready to rip my hair with this one! Timing is correct, new plugs/wires, fuel/air filters, new stock exhaust, I'm really stumped on this one. I've gone out and downloaded info from the 10000Answer FAQ website and still nothing. any info would be great.
 
don't forget to check your TPS(throttle position sensor) and ISC(idle speed control) motor

www.vfaq.com click intake once in framed sight.
then scroll down to throttle body, there is even a link on idle surge wich helps with diagnosing what the problem is

i hope this helps
:thumb:
 
plugs, wires, alternator, battery, main fuses (at the battery), ECU coolant temprature sensor, BISS, idle speed motor, ECU capasitors, faulty EGR, idle switch, vacuum/boost leak (non circulated BOV).
 
Originally posted by audiodude123
plugs, wires, alternator, battery, main fuses (at the battery), ECU coolant temprature sensor, BISS, idle speed motor, ECU capasitors, faulty EGR, idle switch, vacuum/boost leak (non circulated BOV).

Nailed it! :thumb:
 
I got my fuel injectors/fuel system cleaned about amonth ago, It helped alot, more power after i did it aswell as louder turbo through all gears.

I also had a massive vac leak, After I got my Vac/boost gauge installed it was reading 0 vac, I took it back and it turns out one of the vacuum lines that passes close by then engine was to dry and brittle from the constant heat, it was obvious why I had low vac reading.

now with it fixed I get 12 PSI instead of 8 PSI and again louder turbo.(stock exept for K&N)

I also ported out the air bypass in the MAS, for details on that check out my page, goto page 2

www.sounddomain.com/id/keith303
 
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