The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

why wont it DISENGAGE?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Originally posted by NOMIEZVR4
I didn't want to write the whole thing over but here is my problem...what do you think it is?
http://www.dsmcentral.com/invision/index.php?act=ST&f=1&t=946

You could have ctrl-A coppy and pasted that into your post.

You don't mention anything about the hydraulics which I presume you have bled properly.

I have seen reports on DSMtuners relating exactly what you are experiencing. Apparently the clutch mech. under the dash is getting worn which is rotating but because of some plastic piece is not pressing on the master cylinder clevis rod sufficiently to disengage the clutch. I've tried just brefly standing on my head to see the involved parts but found nothing so a more detailed look with flashlight is required. The discussion involved a couple of recommendations for making repairs with the worst of it just getting it out.

I did a stock replacement on my son's car about a month ago and instantly had what may be this problem but he can push to the floor and will disengage.

I'll do a search for the info but you should do same since you are dead in the water.

Cheers,
GTM
 
thanks for the reply. Ive actually done the "test" on vfaq to see if i have any clutch pedal play..and from the results of the test i have none. basically push the clutch, then release, wait 5 seconds and try to pull the clutch up with your hand..if it comes up higher then its a worn out assembly..if not then your good to go. I didn't have any play or anything like that.

Know what im begining to think the culprit is? i think its the flywheel..it was stepped .609..is that ok? Isn't that right at the limit? what do you think..?? Thanks.
 
Originally posted by NOMIEZVR4
thanks for the reply. Ive actually done the "test" on vfaq to see if i have any clutch pedal play..and from the results of the test i have none. basically push the clutch, then release, wait 5 seconds and try to pull the clutch up with your hand..if it comes up higher then its a worn out assembly..if not then your good to go. I didn't have any play or anything like that.

Know what im begining to think the culprit is? i think its the flywheel..it was stepped .609..is that ok? Isn't that right at the limit? what do you think..?? Thanks.

I didn't find the article you are mentioning on Vfaq.com. I did find this one which shows some picts.

http://www.taboospeedshop.com/clutch_pedal_assembly.htm

My son's will when bleeding go all the way to the floor and stay there unless pulled back up by hand. Free play is within specs so I'm loosing something somewhere and this is the only thing that makes sense.

As for the deck height I flat-rated the job and didn't bother for there were no appreciable grooves and only a couple burn spots about the size of a dime. I just used a 5" disk grinder and roughed it up a bit to clean the burn marks and clean the whole surface. Had another tranny so selected the best pivot and fork parts plus new T/O bearing and slapped it back together. I used a generic clutch kit for TSI and all seemed good. Before I pull it apart again I'll find a larger master cylinder, check the shaft and/or find a different slave with more travel. Been there and done that.

Cheers,
GTM
 
Have you actually got under the car and checked if the slave cylinder pushes the clutch fork? I have seen clutch forks bend to the point they no longer disengaged the clutch.Have you checked your crankshaft endplay? A combination of play in thrust bearings and a slightly bent fork will also prevent the clutch from disengaging
 
I removed the little rubber boot that goes on the bellhousing and actually saw the tob push the pressure plate while my brother pressed the clutch. The hydraulic system is functioning well as far as I can see. I also bled the system a few times after the new clutch master cylinder install.
 
Originally posted by thehyena
this is a common problem with the act 2100, 2600 and 2900 order the extended pushrod(slave cyl. rod) from www.dsmparts.com

Hey, that very well could be a valid solution!!

Do you know how much longer this push rod is?

Thirty years ago Datsuns used an adjustable push rod but then went to the self adjusting slave type probably as a cost savings since there were fewer parts to machine and they could claim less maintenance cost. Stupid me, that was about the only thing I didn't check to see how much travel could be gained by compressing the slave to the bottom. Argh! In the case of the Datsun (Toyota also?) the push rod shaft was threaded through the fork and jam nuts were then set. I see no reason to not make a temporary from a piece of drill rod or grade 7 bolt that is radiused at the ends.

Just thinking out loud here, to test this prior to making any change you could try slipping a nut between the push rod and the fork. Might have to use some tape to hold in place but at least this will give a chance to see if reverse and forward gears can be achieved without grinding or ruining syncros.

Yegads, forgotten all the things I've had to do over the years, I've used a copper penny set on a socket, given a few good smacks with a round punch and hammer will make it concave. this will help to keep a push rod centered. Still will need tape to hold in place for the first bump all will fall out, at least the car will be drivable until professional parts arrive.

Thanks for prodding me ol' brain back into motion.

Cheers,
GTM
 
Originally posted by thehyena
i'll tell you when it arrives
no problem :)

Just remember there has to be some free play or the T/O bearing will wear out as well as the fingers on the pressure plate. Also if you get too much throw the pressure plate fingers can flip over-center and stick. So once installed only press on the pedal enough to disengage for making shifts. As the disk wears down this becomes less of a problem but can't remember why this condidion happens, I'll have to go take a look at my son's old unit.

Cheers,
GTM
 
Originally posted by NOMIEZVR4
I already have a 1/4" longer slave cylnder rod.:)

Cheers..:D

Woops, missed that info.

Standing by, PM or email if needed.

Cheers,
GTM
 
Thanks a lot man, ill let you know if anything happens.

Ok, here is my final stab at this problem.Im starting to strongly believe that its the flywheel thats causing me all of these problems..right before we did my clutch we did my cousins 92 awd..2600 install, he didn't have to adjust his clutch master cylinder or bleed his system or anything..but when I did my clutch..had to bleed the system, add a washer, longer sc rod, etc...I know for a fact that his flywheel was stepped differently than mine..it definetly was NOT .609 maybe .610 or higher.

I know it all boils down to all cars are different, but that thought is just buggin the hell outta me now.. and plus im kinda desperate now...I mean if the tranny shifts while the car is off and all, then it can't be the tranny. Also when the car was in the air, with the tires off, it shifted fine, but when I put it on the ground, it wouldn't shift. The flywheel is the only thing thats left..hope its it..that way ill have an excuse to upgrade to an ACT flywheel.. Ill see what happens..pray for me..Do you think it may be the flywheel? Isn't .609 right at the LIMIT? Usually people have it stepped anywhere from .610-.612. Ive taken off the tranny quite a few times with no avail. Thanks everyone.ill let ya know what happens.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top