? about swaping cams in heads

[Nighthawk01]

Hi,, got 2 heads, one from a 94' non turbo 2.0 5 speed, and another from a 1g turbo,,
can i take my cams off the 94 non turbo,, and just bolt them on the turbo head then bolt it onto my 94 engine?
is any machining going to be needed or anything?
Thanx

Isaac Reichard

 

[chucky]

why are you gonna use your nt cams on your turbo head?
i would rather use the turbo cams with the best of the two heads. they are the same. just bolt on and ready to go.
all the 4g63 heads are the same. turbo, NT, even the hyundai 2.0, or the 1.8.
all the heads are the same. so choose the best, don't forget to change the valve seals. they just cost 30 bucks but could save you a lot of time parting out the engine again.

 

[GTM]

Originally posted by chucky
why are you gonna use your nt cams on your turbo head?
i would rather use the turbo cams with the best of the two heads. they are the same. just bolt on and ready to go.
all the 4g63 heads are the same. turbo, NT, even the hyundai 2.0, or the 1.8.
all the heads are the same. so choose the best, don't forget to change the valve seals. they just cost 30 bucks but could save you a lot of time parting out the engine again.

Their are a couple good threads on this subject, as it turns out you need to mix turbo, non-turbo, and automatic transmission cams to get the best combination.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=17110&highlight=valve+cam+timing

However _do not_ mix the cam bearing towers up, keep them with the heads they were machined to fit. If you don't you run the risk of destroying cam, head, and possibly the whole engine.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[Nighthawk01]

the turbo head has no cams.

 

[GTM]

Originally posted by Nighthawk01
the turbo head has no cams.

That makes for an easy decision. Do keep that bookmark for the info may come in handy should you want to play later on with stock cams rather than spending the $600 for the trick grinds.

If you have a non turbo engine and fitting a turbo head be sure to move the exhaust cam oil gallery _plug_ from the non turbo head to the turbo head. Make sure it does not go in too far and block off the oil passage whcih feeds from the middle of the head at the end and then branches to the intake and exhaust cam feeds towards the belts as well as the hydraulic lash adjusters. Those threads are very weak and eaisly damaged so be careful what you do, you must also make sure you have a good seal for that is operating at 30+ lbs oil pressure. There is a metering orifice in the block(?) to reduce crank pressure to the lower value to the head. Remember that block is no substitute for the real thing for the turbo engines have special oilers which address the underside of the pistons to help keep them cool so they don't overheat and seize.

Use a good Molly-Kote grease on the cam bearings and once everything is assembeled use an electric drill on the pump drive before putting the belt on to prime the oiling system. This will fill the lash adjusters to the proper position if you hand rotate the engine a couple of times stopping at each tdc. You need a variable speed drill or you will have oil everywhere when everything is filled.

Cheers,
GTM