Car gets hot after 20 - 30 min of driving

[klipzedgsx]

was up guys i need a little help, ill start by saying i have a big greddy fmic blocking the air and i have fluydine on the way witch should be here soon, well for now i have been driving my car and it stays fine as in heat wise for about 20 to 30 min then starts to get hot, what could this be, also my hoses are sweeling up little too, i do have a blitz radiator cap

 

[Defiant]

How old's your thermostat?

 

[klipzedgsx]

i just replaced it but it could have been a bad one from the beginning

 

[Doug99RS]

WHat was the pressure rating of the stock cap in comparison to the rating on the blitz cap?

Also, you say it's starts to get hot. Do you mean... overheating or just getting warmer than what you used to see?
Doug

 

[klipzedgsx]

i dontk now the stock psi but the blitz is 19psi and when i say hot it could raise up too the top of the key looking thing, but i try to not let it get that hot

 

[luv4turbos]

Do you have an actual temp. guage or just the stock one.
I myself would try a new thermostat first.

 

[Doug99RS]

Did the problem occur prior to sticking the front mount in there? What season did you put in the IC and has it been in there over a year? If you've got the side mount still, it really would be nice to know if you could swap them out and see if your problem went away.
Doug

 

[klipzedgsx]

i put my fmic on in the winter, what temp thermastate should i get and how do them them things work

 

[laserturbo91]

do the fans kick in? could be fan switch or something

 

[klipzedgsx]

ya they do, i have them both hooked up to come on at the same time, how could i rig it to stay on when my car is off

 

[Doug99RS]

You would need to run something similar to a turbo timer for the cooling fans. But I really wouldn't recomend doing this. The fans work at certain conditions for a reason. They drop a/c condensor temperatures to keep a/c line pressure in check and they come on once the coolant temp reaches a certain range. They then shut off once you get out of that range. If you have them running the entire time the engine is running then you may create a check engine light condition where the "engine stays cold too long". Meaning that it does not get UP to the proper temperature for efficient burn and catalyst efficiency. (I'm stressing the burn efficiency more than catalyst).

The solution is to get the temperatures back within spec without going too far under and without hacking up your wiring harness doing so.
Doug

 

[klipzedgsx]

cool thanks alot man, well im gong to put my fluydine radiator in and a new thermastate (dont know what kind yet) i do have a 1g head, and some peak 50/50 sence winter is comeing up

 

[GSXTCY]

Originally posted by wrx14
i think its cuz ur an idiot and u dont know how to drive ur car

Comments like this will not be tolerated. If you have nothing useful to say then save it! Thanks

 

[klipzedgsx]

ya i know who this wrx14 kid is he is suppose to be in my crew but now he isnt in sh**, he isnt getting his bottle anymore either so f him, thanks for everyone elses help

 

[wrx14]

i was messin with u jim cuz i just found out ur username

 

[klipzedgsx]

its cool doug sorry, but post to the thread and stay on topic or everyone will get mad

 

[98RedGs]

its cool doug sorry, but post to the thread and stay on topic or everyone will get mad

This is true.



Did your issue get resolved yet?

 

[klipzedgsx]

it will if prostreet online wants to get my radiator to me, its been awhile now, once i get that im getting a new oem thermastate and putting it all in with some peak 50/50 hopefully this works ill let u guys know

 

[Defiant]

Originally posted by klipzedgsx
i put my fmic on in the winter, what temp thermastate should i get and how do them them things work

190° is stock. They work by there being a cylinder full of wax on the hot water side. Once the wax gets hot it expands, and there's a pushrod that opens the disk from its seat. The spring closes it (and holds it against the wax) as it cools.

 

[klipzedgsx]

so people have been telling me to go with the oem one instead of a pepboys or autozone, should i do this or does it not matter

 

[Defiant]

I don't see the difference between aftermarket and oem when you're dealing with thermostats. I'd not bother with one of the new "fails open" designs, though.

 

[Defiant]

Originally posted by klipzedgsx
i dontk now the stock psi but the blitz is 19psi and when i say hot it could raise up too the top of the key looking thing, but i try to not let it get that hot

Goddammit, it's not a KEY, it's a THERMOMETER. Argh.

But it's only getting up to the top of that? That's not hot. You're still fine so long as you stay about a needle's width below the red area. I'd replace the sensor and see what that makes it say.

 

[Doug99RS]

Originally posted by Defiant
Goddammit, it's not a KEY, it's a THERMOMETER. Argh.

Oh that's funny. I didn't even read the part about the key but I get it now. That's too funny.
Doug