Idling low + stalling have video

[xxsupralvrxx]

ok my car just did this on my why to my house, it was idling between 400-600 and it was up and down... I have a video and by the time I took it it started stalling...alot. The car is stock the only thing I have hooked up is a cheap boost gauge, i looked and made sure all of my hose connectios are still good....
here's the video
<embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http
VIDEO0015.flv - Video - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
if links dont work let me know

 

[xxsupralvrxx]

got the car to work, and when i came out a few hours later it ran fine... so iam wondering what do, I noticed I have a tick now only from an idle to about 2500 and it comes and goes, at first I thought the worst now I am wonderin if it could be the injectors because it runs super rich at an idle (to the point where i smell unburnt fuel sitting inside the car)...

 

[Backinajiffy12]

vid does nto work but check IC cuplers

 

[xxsupralvrxx]

i did its acting REALLY weird cold start the car idles at 2000 then as temp goes up, the idle goes down..... i have the video in photo bucket which code do i post html? ect..ect....

 

[Backinajiffy12]

Check all your fuel injectors next

 

[xxsupralvrxx]

VIDEO0015.flv - Video - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

 

[DSM1G90]

have you checked your base timing - being the 5*BTDC with the ECU connector grounded? If timing is off, the ECU is fighting to make the system run in balance.

Also, after seeing your vid, sounds like some vacuum leaks are also raising havoc with things under the hood

I have hooked up is a cheap boost gauge

...and this could be your problem. Disconnect this gauge and go back to stock to see if might clear up the problem.

Is your BISS settings where they should be?

It's not an injector problem you have, but some sensors that are telling the ECU what to do. Best to check these sensor areas out.

good luck - DSM

 

[xxsupralvrxx]

BISS? I dont have access to a timing gun atm, and you didnt say any other sensors.... thanks for the help though

 

[Burtismaximus]

i had a problem like this on my 1991 talon tsi awd auto and what it was my battery died and when it did i jumped let it charge turned it off andthen restarted it. well after i restarted it the car would run and keep dropping in the rpms at idle. i would rev it up and would still want to drop rpms. i mashed on the gas and then lowered to about 2500 and once it stopped wanting to drop rpms i let off the gas went back to idle ran fine. the problem was the tempertaure sensor. once the car ran it was fine but it died agian and the same thing happened. needless to say i now dont let it sit for more than a day. interesting tho isnt it

 

[xxsupralvrxx]

hmmmm that would make sense

 

[DSM1G90]

after i restarted it the car would run and keep dropping in the rpms at idle

Should have hooked up a charger to the battery sinc the ALT isn't designed to charge or keep charging a battery at all times - just to keep the system at the required voltage of 13.8 to 14.3vdc.

Basically, all a battery is for is to give the system the initial current and voltage to get things started. Then, the ALT takes over from there.

When an ALT has to recharge an almost dead battery, it will pull the motor down quite a bit since it's under quite the load, and if one does this too much, the regulator inside the ALT will give up and you then have to replace the ALT for sure.

Thus, if you got battery probs, get a new battery, or keep on replacing ALTs.

and you didnt say any other sensors

..Sorry on this - meant when a sensor is doing a reading, it sends the info to the ECU to complete that task. Otherwise, if a sensor isn't doing it's job, the ECU then "guesses" on what to do and it has the instruction to do a task that will save the operation of the motor - even to prevent it from running.

Why is when one does a search in this DSM forum on reading codes from the ECU on what sensor is or isnt doing its particualr thing to make the motor run correctly.

(For example: My daughter has a '91, 1.8 Base Eclipse that the CEL light would come on and off, then stayed on all the time. Her car is from California, thus it has a temp sensor on the EGR valve. I did a code check and it pointed to the EGR temp sensor. This sensor has failed, thus the ECU is guessing on what to do with the EGR, plus sending me a warning (the Check Engine Light) that there is something not right and I need to fix it. Since I don't like EGR valves in the first place ..did a EGR blockout plate trick.. and not wanting to spend the dough on a new sensor, I did a small mod to turn off the CEL light by 'telling' the ECU that I fixed the problem.)

-DSM

 

[xxsupralvrxx]

oooooo ok, but I am not getting any cels...

 

[Burtismaximus]

you should be getting a cel when it starts to sputter. do u?

 

[xxsupralvrxx]

nope it did again just as i pulled into my driveway and it was only runnin for like 10 minutes and it stalled a few feet from my house....I am getin pissed i get paid tomarrow so Iam hopin i can figure out wats up...I was gonna buy a 2g exhaust manifold for $50 on sunday but iam not to sure now...

 

[xxsupralvrxx]

Well guys i was thinkin and Iam goin simple I went out and bought a tie rod end, a fuel filter( hopfully this is my problem) Synthetic oil and oil filter and also a a airfilter...o I alomst for got a set or platium plugs( what should I gap these to?) I removed the BCS to night(took the vacume lines off an put screws+clamps on the ends[cut the hose first] I then ran the line from my IC pipes down to the wastegate. I havent driven it yet but is this ok?) I also have another question I noticed that my upper IC pipe is bolted to my airfilter housing will it be ok holding it own weight??

 

[DSM1G90]

a set or platium plugs( what should I gap these to?)

Whoops..should have gotten NGK BPR6ES for your motor. Or, BPR7ES if you got high turbo boost - it's what they like best. Platinum and Iradium doesn't work too well ...

Gapped at .028 ..

p.s. - you need to work on your sentence structure an using the shift key .. kinda hard to read.

-DSM

 

[xxsupralvrxx]

Dang... We'll see how it goes with these plugs.. O and Sorry about my sentences I dont use a computer to much

 

[xxsupralvrxx]

well guys I think I figured out one problems I took my air filter out (its a K&N) and its WAS FILTHY!!! I mean my hand was black after I touched it! I washed the filter out and let it dry, then I washed the inside of the can. When Bypassed the BCS I noticed a noticable power drop, I accounted this to the 2 psi drop in boost. I figured that I put to small of a line in their so I replaced it with a larger one (I cleaned the filter at the same time)(I had bypassed the BSC last night) It was alot cleaner but my boost it only at 9 psi still but unlike before where it use to taper down to 6-7 psi its rock solid at 9psi. I really wanna either make a cheap MBC (Iam still not sure on the parts I need...)