gs-t turns off coming to stop, and low idle

[cesar1320]

i have a 95 eclipse gs-t and my car turns off when im coming to a stop, but it turns on quickly and runs good and the other thing is that it idles low any suggestions would help, thank you

 

[jp77]

check for boost leaks, make sure the intake manifold or tb gaskets are not leaking. My car was doing this ..turns out to be busted runners on the intake manifold. got replacement and now idle is great!! plus no more stalling coming to a stop.

 

[50trimmed1g]

Is your bov recirculated???

 

[dsm03]

Did you do any recent mods or upgrades? Try adjusting the throttle body idle screw mine was idiling low until i adjusted mine when i first purchased my 2g...turn it clockwise fully until it cant go no more and then turn it counter clockwise 180 degrees!! read that in another forum hopefully it works!!! good luck

 

[kenamond]

i have a 95 eclipse gs-t and my car turns off when im coming to a stop, but it turns on quickly and runs good and the other thing is that it idles low any suggestions would help, thank you

I just learned that if you reset the ECU it can act just like this as the ECU/ISC rediscover what the motor likes for an idle. Did you disconnect the battery before this happened? If so, warm up the motor and let it idle for 10 minutes or more. It might stall, but just restart it and let it idle. Apparently, it can take a couple of days to get back to normal.

Are you getting a CEL? If so, get it read.

You shouldn't have to adjust the BISS unless you changed something that would affect the base idle permanently. The BISS gets enough air past the throttle plate so that the ISC can fine-tune the idle, so as long as the BISS gets the idle in the ballpark, the ISC should be able to take it from there.

Other things you can check are to evaluate the ISC. With the car warmed up, turn on A/C and see if the RPM drop or if the idle corrects. This adds load via the accessory belts (AC compressor load and added alternator load due to the increased current draw for the AC fan) and bogs the engine a bit. The ISC should automatically open up a bit and let more air through which should increase the RPM. If the ISC doesn't seem like it's able to maintain the idle RPM when the accessory load changes, it's a sign that the ISC is bad. The ISC can be checked by measuring the resistance across pins in its connector. Search for the procedure.

Here is a thread that might help you out:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/290743-car-idling-very-low.html

 

[cesar1320]

no but i tried and it still does it!!!!

 

[97GSTee]

Try adjusting the throttle body idle screw mine was idiling low until i adjusted mine when i first purchased my 2g...turn it clockwise fully until it cant go no more and then turn it counter clockwise 180 degrees!! read that in another forum hopefully it works!!! good luck

where is the throttle body idle screw?

 

[kenamond]

where is the throttle body idle screw?

In the purple circle in the link below. Bookmark that site...it's nice.

http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Engineprimer/2G/throttlebody.htm

 

[Defiant]

Bolt down your battery, and get a cover for the positive terminal.

 

[97SpydermanGST]

Is it a Auto or Manual? If it is a Auto it might be your torque converter. My auto was stalling out when coming to a stop, got the trans. flushed and worked like a charm.

 

[babiebluboi]

I'm having the same exact problem as well. The car has been running like that but gradually worsened. Now, almost 100% of the time, it'll die when I come up to a stop sign. When I start the car up, the idle will be perfectly fine, but the moment I step on the gas to get the car moving then hold in the clutch again, the idle drops ALL the way down and sometimes dies.

I've been doing some research around DSM Tuners, but still haven't found a definite answer. I checked for any of the obvious around the engine bay...nothing. I turned the screw on the intake manifold clockwise all the way till it I couldn't turn it any more...nothing. I asked the shop and they said that it's most likely my BOV because it's open atmosphere, not recirculated. But even when I drive slow and don't hit the BOV, the car still stalls when I pull up to a stop sign.

As for testing a vacuum leak, I don't have a vacuum leak tester, so my friend is coming by tomorrow with his so that we can check if it does or doesn't have a vacuum leak.

SORRY, I DIDN'T MEAN TO STEAL THIS THREAD, BUT I DIDN'T WANNA REPOST THE SAME EXACT THREAD.

I'll update you guys tomorrow whether or not my car has a vacuum leak. But as for now, PLEASE let me know what you guys think is wrong! Thanks!

 

[kenamond]

I'm having the same exact problem as well. The car has been running like that but gradually worsened. Now, almost 100% of the time, it'll die when I come up to a stop sign. When I start the car up, the idle will be perfectly fine, but the moment I step on the gas to get the car moving then hold in the clutch again, the idle drops ALL the way down and sometimes dies.

I've been doing some research around DSM Tuners, but still haven't found a definite answer. I checked for any of the obvious around the engine bay...nothing. I turned the screw on the intake manifold clockwise all the way till it I couldn't turn it any more...nothing. I asked the shop and they said that it's most likely my BOV because it's open atmosphere, not recirculated. But even when I drive slow and don't hit the BOV, the car still stalls when I pull up to a stop sign.

As for testing a vacuum leak, I don't have a vacuum leak tester, so my friend is coming by tomorrow with his so that we can check if it does or doesn't have a vacuum leak.

SORRY, I DIDN'T MEAN TO STEAL THIS THREAD, BUT I DIDN'T WANNA REPOST THE SAME EXACT THREAD.

I'll update you guys tomorrow whether or not my car has a vacuum leak. But as for now, PLEASE let me know what you guys think is wrong! Thanks!

The BOV opens when the IM is under vaccuum...like when you're idling.

 

[tkelly27]

Haha, the SN, the profile pic, I knew it had to be an unrecirculated BOV for good ole' blue. Recirc that SOB. Send me a PM if you want to see how I modified my turbo XS to recirc. You better be handy with the JB weld though!

Ceasar, have you done your boost leak test? Have you done the CEL codes yet? My car had fouled plugs and it would just randomly shut off.

 

[eclipsed95]

I gotta go with Mass Air Flow Sensor on this one. When I first bought my car it did the same thing. Got a new one and cured it instantly.

 

[babiebluboi]

How much does a Mass Air Flow Sensor cost around?

 

[eclipsed95]

It was years ago that I bought mine, so I don't remember for sure. I bought a new one from Mitsu. You can find them used everywhere.

 

[kenamond]

How much does a Mass Air Flow Sensor cost around?

Check the classifieds and eBay. Folks who upgrade to a GM MAF or other sell the stock one.

 

[96TTtrqmnstr]

Did anybody find a solution to their problem?

 

[92AWDHX40]

I had the same problem with my car, there was a vacuum leak at the bov, and the throttle body.

 

[mochilli]

I just learned that if you reset the ECU it can act just like this as the ECU/ISC rediscover what the motor likes for an idle. Did you disconnect the battery before this happened? If so, warm up the motor and let it idle for 10 minutes or more. It might stall, but just restart it and let it idle. Apparently, it can take a couple of days to get back to normal.

i just changed my battery and have a simliar problem: car idle quit low sometimes 500's. but not all the time: so this could just be because i changed my battery your saying?

 

[mochilli]

Bolt down your battery, and get a cover for the positive terminal.

i just changed my battery (have low idle, but will wait a couple days) but forgot to put the cover back on; what can result in this? i didnt think it was a big deal...

 

[babiebluboi]

i just changed my battery (have low idle, but will wait a couple days) but forgot to put the cover back on; what can result in this? i didnt think it was a big deal...

You know what? I should check that too because my car will occasionally have a charging problem. I keep thinking it's not a battery/alternator problem because I just got a new battery and alternator, but it's worth a try. Sometimes when my car dies out, and doesn't have enough juice to start back up.

 

[Twistaye]

+1 to MAS; but what I would check first is to make sure the HONEYCOMBS are still installed in the MAS. When the honeycombs are removed the car can idle as high as 20.1 af/r and will sputter and die, trust me I've learned this since the previous owner removed them.

If the honeycombs are still there, borrow a friends MAS and try and see if that helps any. It would also be a good idea to go ahead and recirc that BOV, I just recirc'd my HKS SSQV and although it's quiet, it makes a hell of a difference until I can go blow-thru

Just figured I'd drop a thought

 

[mochilli]

GOOD NEWS: my car is idling fine again. It was 100% def. because i changed the battery thanks dsm tuners for me not getting a heart attack

 

[babiebluboi]

GOOD NEWS: my car is idling fine again. It was 100% def. because i changed the battery thanks dsm tuners for me not getting a heart attack

I have a brand new battery though...maybe I'll disconnect it, clean the terminals, then reconnect it. I'm going to try and find time to check around the BOV for vacuum leaks, and maybe think about a MAS.

How likely do you guys think this problem is caused by my open-atmosphere BOV, versus recirculated BOV?