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Help With Cam Install!

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93GSXCLIPSE

15+ Year Contributor
61
0
Dec 3, 2003
Mayfield Heights, Ohio
So I already have my stock cams out and my fp2's are just laying in the cylinder head. Here is what I need help with. I was going by the prostreet zip-tie method, but the problem is, not only does my mitsubishi dealership NOT have the timing belt - untensioner tool, but every home depot and ace hardware store does not carry anything even close to the 8mx1.25 bolt that I would need to untension the timing belt.

I'm STUCK!!

I do not know how else to untension the timing belt, because it is impossible to get the cam gear back on without untensioning it. I do not want to have to take off the whole timing cover assembly, because that would mean taking off all the serpentine belts too.

I have a 6 bolt in a 2g btw ;)

PLEASE HELP! I need this done tonight!
 
is the 2g battery tie down bolt too skinny for the hole, or is the bolt the same size on 1gs and 2gs and the hole for the tbelt tensioner tool too big on the 2gs? If the first scenario is the case, hit the junkyard and get a 1g tiedown bolt.
 
well I did call Mitsubishi and they do not carry that tool at all anymore, it's not even in their computers.

As for the junk yard part, where would I find a dye to thread the battery tie down, and what size would it have to be?

Does anybody know where I would find a dye to thread the battery tie down bolt off of a 1g?
 
Why don't you just remove the covers, then remove the tensioner. Put the tensioner a vice, then stick in a nail or small allen wrench. This is what I used to to before i bought the tensioner tool.
 
I'm not sure of the size of die you need. But if the 8mm x 1.25 is the correct bolt size then that is the size of die you need. Or you could buy a piece of threaded rod that size and either weld a nut on the end or jam 2 nuts against each other. Fastenal carries the threaded rod and the die for what ever route you choose. There should be one fairly close to you. They have a store locator on there website Fastenal
 
so the fastenall store has a meter rod and I would just have to cut it down and lock 2 nuts up? I am probably going to do that, because spxmiller would probably charge like $50.00 for the tool, which is just a bolt
 
Yep that is how I made mine, except I welded a nut to one end. If you cut the rod and take it to a tech school or muffler shop they would probably weld the nut for free.
 
Well I bought the 8mx1.25 rod from fastenal and double locked 2 nuts on it...worked well up until I got to the tensioner....the nuts started spinning, so I just kept tighetening them and spinning it, little by little...

2 minutes later, the metal rod I was using snapped at the point where it threads in....

WHAT DO I DO NOW!?!?

Everything is in time, camshafts are in, cam gears are tied down, I just need to slide the timing belt on...it is really close too, I just need about an inch of slack and I'll be able to pop it on.

Please give me any ideas as to how get that timing belt untensioned now!!
 
It looks like you've been trying to do this for a couple of days. You could always just bite the bullet and redo your timing belt. It would save you a lot of hassle. I ended up just pulling my timing belt off when I did mine. I couldn't use the tool anyways since I have a 1G in a 2G. The whole zip tie thing didn't really turn me on either. It took me maybe 2 hours to get the belt off, cams in and them retimed.
 
But wouldn't you still have to untension it to get the belt on? And don't you have to take off all of the serpentine belts and such? It would take far longer than 2 hours, I would think....especially if the engine is still in the car.

I also have a 1g in a 2g...why doesn't the tool work? As long as it's 8mx1.25, it should work right?
 
RRE states that if you have a 1G in a 2G with the 1G tensioner arm the tool won't work. I'm unsure as to why but they probably know what they are talking about. I did try to die my battery tie down to use as a one time thing, but couldn't get it to work. Maybe I wasn't patient enough, but I figured I would just do it the right way rather than risk the zip tie method. Yes the belts all need to come off, the timing cover, crank pulley, water pulley, etc. You can untension the belt by loosening the the tensioner pulley, but you will have to retime the motor. If you haven't done this before the details are here and here. Might be a good idea to change the belt if it hasn't been done in a while. As to the two hours...well you get good at it after you've done it enough.
 
so I finally took it to the shop and had the timing belt put on...350 to move it 2 inches!! aghh!! anyways, I know the fp2's are mild but my car is running like *#&^!!!!! it HARDLY idles, with the bis screw ALL the way out... the car is timed properly and I cannot think as to why it is running so bad..most people were saying the fp2's idle like stock!!

also, my vacuum is jumping around from -5 to 0 the whole time when the car is idling...if it hasn't died yet
 
Wooo dude that's not good. I would check the timing. Make sure they didn't mess it up. You should have 12-14 inches of mercury with those cams. Check the timing advance too.
 
So just had a call from the shop telling me the cam seals are bad. Yesterday after cruising around for 30 minutes, my car leaked ALL the oil out of it after I came home. Could the bad cam seals have been making my car idle like crap too? Maybe no pressure in the head? I knew I should have changed them when I had the chance!
 
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