Clutch Disengagement - Last try before towing to a shop

[MissionSk8r21]

I have searched every post I could find both here and at DSMtalk regarding clutch disengagement, etc.. I have basically done everything suggested but drop the trans. I had posted a thread similar to this before but I feel it'll be easier to understand if I start a new one.

The car is a 93 Talon TSI AWD 6/4 bolt combo 5-Spd

Transmission details...
Newer trans installed from a Galant VR-4
ACT 2600 clutch
ACT flywheel (Street lightweight)
ACT Throw out bearing (Plastic Sleeve)
New Clutch Fork
1/4 inch washer behind the pivot ball
Extended Slave Rod
Fairly New Master/Slave cylinder.
Speed Bleeder valve on the Slave cylinder
Extended Master Rod. Used a 2g master cylinder rod.
Pedal assembly was worn, so it was replaced

The Problem:
Things all started when I disconnected the clutch fluid line to remove the stock airbox bracket in the car. Air got caught in the lines, and I figured out I had to bleed the clutch. After that was fixed it never quite felt the same, over the next few weeks it became harder and harder to put the car into gear until one night it wouldnt go at all. After searching all over and talking to several people about it I ripped out the entire pedal assembly. As it turned out the spot weld cracked off the rod that pushes the spring for the master cylinder. I had it re-welded, but the weld was off so I just bought a new working pedal assembly from a friends parts car. I spent time removing and testing both the master and slave cylinder and both function as they should. Theirs no leak anywhere and I can watch the clutch fork move when the clutch pedal is pushed. The pedal sits slightly above the brake pedal, and I have adjusted the master cylinder rod as much as I could. Ive also bleed the line over and over and Im confident it has pressure with no air pockets. When I attempt to start the car in gear in jerks forward, if I start it in Neutral and try to put it in gear it wont go. When I push on the clutch pedal I cannot feel the "catch point" just feels like an even stiffness all the way down.

I understand the clutch isnt disengaging but Im completly out of ideas for what I should do next. The car has been sitting for over a month now, and being my daily driver its a major P.I.T.A. My last resort is to have it towed to a trans shop. Any help is REALLY appreciated.

 

[numlock666]

have a friend step on the clutch and see if the slave is moving at least and inch or so.

 

[drivemusicnow]

Did you bleed the slave cyl itself? (Pump it up,open bleeder physically push the piston back into the slave, close bleeder, pump, repeat)

How much throw are you getting from the slave?
where does the clutch fork sit in relation to it's "hole" that it sticks through. Center/passangerside/drivers side etc.

 

[MissionSk8r21]

have a friend step on the clutch and see if the slave is moving at least and inch or so.

Yes it moves about an inch.

As far as the bleeding goes, Ive tried every method of bleeding. The fork sits more towards driverside.

 

[housegsx]

Transmission details...

1/4 inch washer behind the pivot ball
Extended Slave Rod
Extended Master Rod. Used a 2g master cylinder rod.

That combo seems extremely excessive. Although I think you would be having problems with the clutch engaging, not disengaging. Is the 2g Master rod larger/longer? The only thing I could think of is that it is somehow reducing the volume left for fluid and therefore is not actuating the slave as far as it should. Not sure about that one though.
Why did you do those 3 changes^? I would reverse them one at a time.
Also, which flywheel are you using?

 

[DoyoFCT]

I usually shim the pivot fulcrum with a machine washer it brings the fork into a much better position. and use an extended rod. with 1g's anyways.

2g's i dont really have any issues. just remove the restrictor inside the slave, make sure its a brand new one. and add a stainless clutch line. and i still shim the pivot but i dont use an ext rod. mainly because their clutch pedal assembly/master cylinder is a much better design.

oh and 1/4 inch seems wayyy excessive for spacing the pivot, and you could run into throw out bearings that wear out and/or make noise easy. i use the factory head bolt washers from a 1g. they're more like 1/8 inch if that, and thats about all you need.



And after reading your description there's a possibility you may have over extended and pushed the fork so much that it bent the tab that keeps it on the pivot. so i would inspect that for damage/wear. either that or the slave/and or master just couldnt take it and one let go. try to stick with oem mitsu for the slave/master they generally handle all the modifications a lot better. ive had parts store master cylinders fail in the exact way you're describing. Any time i do the ext rod/shim the pivot the master does not require the extensive adjustment that it would normally require. i suggest installing a new mitsu factory 1g master cylinder un-modified and adjust it properly.

 

[MissionSk8r21]

That combo seems extremely excessive. Although I think you would be having problems with the clutch engaging, not disengaging. Is the 2g Master rod larger/longer? The only thing I could think of is that it is somehow reducing the volume left for fluid and therefore is not actuating the slave as far as it should. Not sure about that one though.
Why did you do those 3 changes^? I would reverse them one at a time.
Also, which flywheel are you using?

For flywheel I have a ACT flywheel (Street lightweight). That combo was choosen by the previous owner when he replaced the motor/trans/clutch after blowing the previous motor at the track. The combo was working fine for a good 5 months so I wouldnt think thats the problem. Thanks for the feedback.