Thump under front end, clutch.

[DelTASteve]

I have two problems. I am a poor high school graduate, so I can't afford to take it to the shop right now (the ones around here want around $1200 to change the clutch and even look at the noise from under the front end ).

Firstly, the clutch has been getting lighter and lighter. I mean, it still drives, but I stopped to prevent any damage that may occur (I do still like my car very much, albeit pissing me off lately). It requires less force to push the pedal down to the floor (almost non exsistant), when it used to take a decent amount. I just had a new slave cylinder put in, and the lines checked, so I doubt that is it. I think this means it is time for a new clutch?

Secondly, the problem that worries me a bit more, is a thumping coming from underneath the front end. It happens when I start moving, a thud that I can feel from under the front end. It happens all the time off the line, but only sometimes when shifting into different gears. It also does not happen when I rev the engine sitting still (does that eliminate the motor mount question)? I honestly have very little experience with fixing cars (other then preventative maintenance), so these have me almost completely stumped. All help is GREATLY appreciated, as I would like to be able to drive to work again instead of riding my bike.

Steve

 

[Strm Trpr]

Where does the clutch begin to grab?
If it is really high up on the pedal stroke, then chances are you clutch is on it's way out.
If it's just soft, you need to completely flush the system with new fluid and bleed all air out.

Inspect all 4 motor mounts.
If any of them are torn, that's your thumping noise.
If so, you can by new prothane motor mounts, or you can source some from a junkyard, like the Mitsubishi Graveyard.

When I inspect my suspension, I remove the strut assembly so moving the suspension is a lot easier, and problems are more evident without the suspension being sprung by the coilover, but since your a 1g, I'm not sure you can do that.

You can also put the front end up on jackstands to inspect the suspension.
Once in the air, have someone turn the steering wheel for you while you visually look for any signs of wear.
Grab the top and bottom of the tire and attempt to push and pull to try and rock the wheel on the axle, this will let you know if you have a bad ball joint and/or bad wheel bearing assembly.

Also, have someone hold the steering wheel straight and tight and grab the front and rear of the tire and attempt to push and pull to check both your inner and outer tie rod ends.

 

[I Need Speed]

I'm having a similar problem as Steve, but instead of thumping, my front end vibrates right out of a complete stop. Then as soon as I shift to second gear, it stops. Except if I accelerate like an old lady, then the vibration will not occur.
I don't have a Mitsubishi dealership around me for about 80 miles, so anyone has any insight to this problem, it will be greatly appreciated.

 

[DelTASteve]

Thanks much Strm Trpr. I will try bleeding it, as that is exactly what is going on. It releases right next to the floor, with almost no effort. "soft" is a much better way to describe how it feels.

I will have to wait until this weekend to get the car up on jackstands, but I will be sure to post up how it goes.

 

[siceclipse]

do the clutch yourself.

i did mine for the first time (with a friend) a month ago and it wasnt bad at all.
I spent 1200 on a clutch twice before that and hated having to spend the 7-900 labor costs for something i can do.

the VFAQ is a PERFECT step by step guide. Everything is right there for you.

just remember a few things.

JACKSTANDS!!!!
PB Blaster
Drain fluids first
install axles before replacing fluid when finished ( ! )

 

[I Need Speed]

My problem has been solved! I was getting ready to go somewhere, and I put my car into reverse, and the car did not budge. I had it towed to the Mitsu dealership, and the said it was the clutch. I had it replaced, and no more problems!